dr_hunt

That looks very nice, can't wait to see some numbers on that one!

And the pic's are where????

Hey, I've got my learners permit, damnit!!

Competition engineering 4 link kit is $180. QA1 promastar coil overs already installed were $430 delivered to the door and they had the springs and mounting brackets. I installed those with the intention of tubbing and going 4 link when I put them in so I won't loose out on anything I've already done.

My understanding is that the cast core roller that comp sells, starts to flake off on the lobes at some point when used at boost levels of 15psi or greater. I've heard that this has happened from two people I know that have used that cam, and comp tech guys didn't recommend that cam for boost levels above 12psi or serious hp engines like the one I'm building. So there is probably something to the stories I've heard. Comp also said that the AFR heads and the banks exhaust housings are soo efficient that I wouldn't need very much duration. Getting the snails to clear the strut towers in the z is a problem. Going to have to fab up some kind of an exhaust or go tubular chassis. I tried a GT37R turbo for valve cover fitment last night, since there was one on the DSM motor, and the exhaust housing clears a tall uncut valve cover with no problems whatsoever. I'm thinking on leaving this engine in the monte, building another much milder motor for the z. Buying me some GT42's for the monte and using these Rayjay 300's on the z.

IMO I think that weight figure is a little light considering what it has in it. Mine is totally stripped, 9 inch, sbc with aluminum heads and about everything else and it weighs 2750.

Ok, got the valve covers scalloped to clear the snails, Work it baby! I'll post pic's tomorrow. Everything fits fine so I don't have to redo the exhaust. Tomorrow I'm going to Edwards to drop of the DSM engine block, crank and goodies to have it all machined so I'll pick up a set of roller cam pushrods and then come weld the oil pan drainbacks tomorrow, finish the engine and get ready to install it. The engine is going in the monte for now. I don't think the z needs or can handle that much HP, so I'll build another TT motor for that later this summer and we'll go streetable, but with good HP.

That costs extra, did you pay extra for the extended warranty?

Well, if your making serious HP and going to be launching hard, its a must IMO. JNJ has mastered changing u-joints in a jiffy and is testing the outer limits of stock parts, so you can do that too. I'd rather watch the races inbetween runs myself. If your going to use the stock ford ends, narrowing is rather easy since they fit the inside of the tube. Download an axle form from one of the various vendors, supply them with all the measurements and you'll get some axles that bolt in. I'm buying a competition 4 link kit and going to be narrowing our rear end (no pun intended and no it's not jenny craig) several inches to get a 10 or 10.5 inch tire under the car.

Man, that 55, always wanted one, that and a 67-69 camaro. That's cool. I was thinking of selling the Monte and getting a camaro to play with. We'll see what happens, the monte is a complete garage kept rust free car, I bought it in '93 with only 16K original miles on it, new interior, still has factory seats that are pristine, new glass, new paint and soon to be TT powered for awhile. Considering selling it with the TT powerplant in it and then using the new white z to go TT with an all tubular chassis.

This brings up an important fact regarding turbo charged cars where the piston actually see's resistance from incoming pressure on the exhaust stroke at valve overlap. According to Corky Bell's book, this lessens the tension load by alot and actually means that turbo'd engines actually only see 20% more stress than the same engine NA although the HP output can be as much as 3HP/cu-inch. Also a fact is that the tension load on a NA rod at 6K rpm vs. 7K rpm differs by about 135%!!!!! That folks is why they come undone and why 7K is a magic number for most V8's. Oldsmobiles and Pontiac V8's usually stay around 5K to 5500! So, knowing that the rod bolt cross sectional area is significantly smaller, while being constructed of a superior strength material is crucial to longetivity. Therefore consider it insurance to use the best fastener you can buy or IMO the best and longest rod you can afford!

One of these days when on the dyno, somebody try to get them to do a pull in first gear just so you get a feel for what HP you really loose and then you'll know why heat is what kills transmissions. Pulling heavy loads in lower gears creates alot of heat in the trans.

When you get into OD you loose TQ multiplication, your turning more gears and bearings, can't do anything about it. Clutch friction is minimized by increasing clutch pack clearance, but only to a certain extent. Lightened rotating components also help with acceleration. MPG increase is often achieved when you can reduce losses which would mean go to a direct drive manual transmission rather than an auto, especially an OD auto. You can't add gears, bearings and a cluth pack and have an increase in mileage all other thing being equal. The only advantage to an OD would be the reduction in engine parasitic losses due to lower operating rpm which is offset by the increased transmission parasitic losses. But why would you do that when you could get a OD manual box and have lower transmission parasitic losses? I think the TH400 is the real pig with 23% loss in high gear. If it's mpg's your looking for then a manual box is by far the way to go.

Well, that depends on what gear the trans is in, those numbers are for first gear I believe. Manual transmission take less power usually about 15% and auto's are around 20%. Over drives soak up alot of HP in OD due to parasitic losses and rotating mass cause it's rotating the other clutch packs. So in high gear with a 400 HP engine your only delivering 320 to the rear end. Loose another percentage in the rear end and your probably barely getting 300 at the wheels. You get alot less in the lower gears of an automatic, but you get torque multiplication which is what moves the vehicle.

LOL!

Tell us what's in your 408 and details on the car, you holding out? How come your not going to sez?

Yeah, those grizzlies. I saw one get into a VW van in Wyoming near Meteetsee. Ate dogfood and destroyed the van. The hippies driving it watched with me as well and were really po'd.

Dang pesky z's, just won't go away. That's really a great kill!

Jake, I'm not biting. If you have usefull information great, if your going to talk smack, go over to zcar. Your attitude is less than what the standards are here at hybridz. Just bring your tech knowhow big motor z to sez and get yourself an buttwhoopin'! Do you even own a z?... Oh well, bring whatever you got and come play. The only thing you'll ever see of the ol' black z is the *** end. That is if you show up! End of story!