dr_hunt

I tried to bid that tractor up to 30 million but the way he has it set up you have to be pre-approved to bid and he takes cashiers checks only. scumbag. real scumbag.

Yeah, bombard him with crap, he's selling a john deere tractor for $4000.

dr_hunt was my ebay user id, I was selling alot of stuff so we'll see if they tries to circumvent that process. I notified EBAY, my paypal account had a different password and I changed my email address it so it's ok. My bank accounts had different passwords, and I changed all that info with a new email so it's ok, too. Good thing I caught that right away, could have been a disaster.

Well, seems somehow somebody hijacked my ebay account and my email account. However, since I log in frequently, I was able to change my paypal account info and open a new email address. I now have a new ebay user Id and my paypal account and bank accounts no longer go to my old email address. Anyone here had that problem?

The 438CJ motor as it sits is worth at least 3K, maybe more. It is a really good ford motor, actually, one of the best IMO, the 427 side oiler is another. If I were you I'd hang on to that, it's better than money in the bank.

Cool, when do you want to run?

The real gains in a carb are not in the choke horn, but in the butterflies, not that the choke horn removal won't help, just that bigger airflow gains are to be had at the baseplate. Single plane, like the old edelbrock scorpion or any of the others like victor jr, holley, etc. will work fine, you just have to tailor the complete package to your drive train or visa versa so your "on the cam" more often than not. You'd be suprised how a 302 will catch 7K without hesitation and if you've never heard one, 7K in a sbc is a sweet sound.

One of these days, I'd like to meet you in person to see the man and the machines. I've decided to go to SEZ, damn I typed in an x instead of a z, guess you know what I'm thinking. Anyway, going to change the gears to 4.30, change the intake rocker ratio from 1.5 to 1.55, carb jetting and possibly timing, trailer it and head that way on the Thursday before SEZ. You going?

Well, there is a reason they call for that gap. Heat causes the rings to gain length and thus close the gap at operating temperature. Too small of a gap and the rings butt ends causing severe drag that can ultimately pull the top of the piston off, and scuff the cylinder walls. The gap depends on the ring land position, turbo pistons usually have the ring package lower on the piston to eliminate heat buildup in the rings. That kind of a gap sounds funny for stock pistons, but the norm for hyper's. That being said, the performance gain from tight ring gaps is typically less than 2% on a fresh bore, so your not gaining anything really that you can feel, going with book specs gives a correct build that you won't have to redo cause it wasn't right the first time. I'd go with the book spec's myself, but it's your motor.

I was reading a magazine and read where that engine has been modded to 700rwhp, if that's so then that would be one awesome car!!! Corvette's are the american icon of total performance IMO. If I were you Mike, I'd buy one, actually, I'd give me your old one and buy a new one.

Well, I'd like to know what part of that welder is better than sex? JK! Migs are nice, but IMO they are almost as good as sex, but not quite.

Jap tin was at the top of the list so the timeslip database was deleted cause nobody can beat him!

Oh, not having fun, please send more mon. It'll make you feel better just spending it and knowing that at least somebody is having fun! Get your can back here and come play you overachiever!

Well, not enough info. .004" per inch of bore for NA, for turbo you'll need more than that or they'll butt and pull the top of the piston off.

sounds nice

Well, then how much does bumpstick change the total HP output in a turbo engine. Say for example a sbc as is the case here. What cam you running silicone boy? What would be the difference, say with a .480 lift 230 dur at .050 and 114LSA hydraulic turbo grind and say what I'm running solid roller .618/.630 244/250 @.050 and 114LSA, just curious??

yeah, but he'll loose compression with those flat tops in the 283 and that'll hurt him more than a few cfm on flow. The 283 power pack heads had like 62 cc combustion chambers as measured with a burette and still only garnered 9:1, so if he drops to 76 cc heads, he'll be at about 8:1 from his 9.25:1 he's at now. The camel irons work very well with the small displacement since the airflow requirements are likewise smaller.

AWD in conditions like that are dangerous. When your sliding, all 4 wheels are sliding, and you have no control. That is why the 2wd pu seems better, because the steer tires aren't sliding. In conditions like that I run in 2wd instead of 4wd just for that reason, and use 4wd for getting started or traversing big hills on the upside, not the downside. IME it's always the tires, compound is too hard, probably a performance tire with crappy snow rating.

You'll need a 3000 stall, since that is torque sensitive also, your little 283 won't stall a 3000 converter anywhere near that. probably about 2600 or 2700 max. That is alot of cam for a 283. I've run 3500 stall converters on the street, you'll be happier with too much stall rather than not enough IMO.

I've dusted vette's and an NSX at over 165mph several times. My speedo doesn't read that mph, but theirs does and that's what they say they were doing, at least that and eating my dust! Then the monte had a 406, 11:1, C&A rods, Dart heads, isky .510 lift cam, TH400, and 3.08 gears with an auburn 3 series posi. I was wondering how z's felt at that kind of speed.

I like that one and the Impala SS outrunning the cops. http://thumbs.streetfire.net/73EB764B-3592-4EFB-BDBF-A048836C75BD.jpg It's amazing how fast that car was.

This is giving me warm fuzzies all over. It won't be long, I think this weekend I should be able to finish up alot of the TT 350 motor. I hard bloked the block and I have some clearancing for the rod bolts to do, the cam is degreed in and it all looks really nice. Figuring pushrod length will be the last real purchase for that engine, then it's on to redoing the down pipes and waste gate piping. Once that's done, I'll drop it and the glide in and get it running. I'm hoping to be done in a month or so then I'll take it to a dyno to get tuning done. I'm lacking; 1. New driveline 2. Pushrods 3. Fabbing exhaust 4. Dizzy choice 5. Gauges (EGT, Boost, Fuel pressure, oil pressure, temp) Then if I can lay down some numbers like that on low boost with no tuning, I'd be impressed!

Well, IMO your wasting your time using a mic to check the bores, they are not round with 110K on them and they will likely have 4 thousands taper. Total seal rings only work on a new bore and specifically one that was done with deck plates, either cast iron or aluminum as per which head type you use. If it is a thin walled block then block filling is recommended, talk to the top engine builders. They will likely recommend something else for street use or street/strip. The trick is the proper ring end gap and proper installation with the right cylinder wall finish. It's better to do it right the first time, then to have to redo it a second or third.

Well, putting a filter between the tank and pump is a mistake, electric pumps don't suck very well, but they push great. Why two filters?

I drove a '05 cobalt the other day for three days, I was impressed! That would be my option.