dr_hunt

Good luck, remember we have a race when you get back. I hear that the chinese diet plan consits of americans trying to eat rice with chop sticks one piece of rice at at time. Ha ha. Oh, and thanks for telling me where you left the keys for the z and the storage facility, I'm sure all the rest of the hybridz'ers will be jealous.

Electric pumps don't suck very well, they push. Sounds like your stock fuel lines may be the problem, not the pump, or maybe a combination of the two. Everybody is right about fuel pressure, hoever pressure doesn't cut it, it's the flow that makes HP and it sounds like your not getting enough flow at anything more than part throttle. The pressure will drop when the flow starts (ie. WOT), which is why alot of pumps put out high pressure at low flow numbers. What size is the stock line? I'd suggest running braided hose -6 or -8 or run the summit 1/2" aluminum line. Also position the electric pump below the fuel tank level or at least halfway between the bottom and top of the tank. If you don't do that then the pump is trying to lift the fuel 1 foot or so and the Vaporization point of gas doesn't allow for alot of lift. For instance you can suck water up about 20 feet at sea level before it vaporizes. Food for thought; In my car I run the aeromotive A2000 pump which pumps some ungodly volume cause I run alcohol and it is positioned even with the bottom of my fuel cell. Fills a 5 gallon fuel jug in 20 seconds through the regulator using one -8 line that usually goes to the back bowl of the carb. If I turn the pump on and run one of the -8 lines into a fuel jug, the pressure gauge at outlet of the regulator reads 3 psi and the one on the pump outlet reads 6 psi, so, in my -10 braided hose from the pump at the back of the car to the front of the car I have 3psi pressure drop at that flow with only one of the -8 lines off and that is with a -10 line from the pump to the regulator folks. So with that puny little stock fuel line, at WOT I'd bet you have too much pressure drop and no flow to the carb. But, that's my guess, so take it for what it's worth. Today I'll take 5 bucks for my opinion, you can send it paypal if you want or just donate it to hybrid z. JK but it is a Good idea, donate it.

Well, in my days, back when I was your age, we had South Eubank in Albuquerque. Serious street drags every Friday and Saturday night, mostly the warm summer period. We're talking blown BBC Vega's, V8 Pinto's, z28's, Mustangs, GTO's, Cuda's, GTX, Buick GS's, well, you get the picture. Anyway it was outside the city so the cops couldn't touch anybody. It was badass! I guess today there are alot more cars, so things are alot more dangerous than it used to be, at least for innocent civilians. Your dad was there, so, it's on his shoulders, however, you should know the risk, make a decision as to right and wrong, and be willing to accept the responsibility before you act. I do it too, but that's my responsibility and I don't want to hear it from anyone else, but your young and at least you ought to know the reality and gravity of life. BESIDES THAT, CONGRATULATIONS!

Oh, one more thing, the S&S headers hit dart blocks, get out the torch, time to bend if your going to use a dart block. 9 inch fords fit fine, post some pic's of your progress.

He did that on purpose, to slow the car down so the ricers can keep up!

An old man told me once, that to enjoy a hobby, you have to be willing to change. For example, if you like cars and are willing to trade or sell it and get another you can enjoy alot of cars. If you buy one and keep it forever, you will not enjoy the "spice" of life, which is variety. Mikelly truly falls into that category. I myself fall into the keep it category and my boys z is at around 14K and still climbing, although it is about finished, just needs paint and more hp? Ha-Ha!

HAT1324 I don't know about turns, we drag race only and drive it on the street occassionally. They are the QA1 Competition coil over shocks, got em on ebay for $400 delivered to the house. 12 way adjustable shocks, truly awesome. Mike, Just a 357 inch motor. Dart block, 3.5 inch stroke eagle crank, 6 inch carillo rods, JE 13 to 1's, AFR 220 heads, mild Crane roller 250/260 .600/.630 108LSA, S&S 1.75" headers, MSD 7AL2, Victor Jr., C&S aerosol billet 800 alky, Powerglide, 4500 stall, 4.56 gears, 9 inch, detroit locker, 29.5x9x15 slicks on 7 inch wheels. Neat ride, goes real straight, easy to drive.

I guess he figured on copying his posterior for your viewing pleasure. Him and Jacko need to get together. I gotta laugh at the lack of brain cells present in the room.

Why would the O2 sensor not work properly? I've had mine on several chassis dyno's and the O2 sensors work fine, I hear they don't last as long (don't know), but they work fine. Need alcohol injectors and fuel pump, lines to handle the additional volume. No detonation problems, Blown alky motors 12 to 13 comp is ok and up to 30 psi boost as I'm told by the procharger people. Turbo folks say 9 to 9.5 to one and same boost. Both are claiming 1200 (turbo) to 1400HP (procharged) on a 350sbc, don't know about RB, but rule of thumb on alky is 50 to 70HP gain on a NA motor just by switching. I like alky, wouldn't have anything else.

I welded a 1-5/8" mild steel bar inbetween the stock frame rails on my boys z to attach the coil overs, works fine. The car has ladder bars mounted to the outside of each frame rail, inside would have been better, but we bought it that way. As and engineer, I don't even see the remote possibility that there would be a problem mounting the coilovers that way unless the welds were inferior quality and broke loose. My boys z is running 11.29 at like 7700 to 8100 density altitude, so it has lots of go. Hooks good and straight, runs real straight.

Jacko might be a wacko, I don't know him so I don't know, but I do know that the justice system is wacko, and Jacko's case is prime example of a prosecutor who can't see the truth and doesn't care because they have the power to screw people over at will. At least that's the way the jury saw it anyway, isn't it, and ALL that matters is what the jury thinks! Hail, rejoice, for the PEOPLE can right wrongs of the out of control prosecutors and hell bent women scamming money out of people who are "high Profile". Just remember your butt may be in the hands of a jury and you can only hope that common sense will rule over the twisted rules and logic of our injustice system.

I don't know guys, that dude has a scary look in his eyes, besides, that's a face only a mother could love.

your getting a piss poor burn in the cylinders. Being all 8 plugs indicates to me that it's a plug heat range problem or weak ignition problem (coil, cap, rotor, wires) What compression are you running? Cam? When you say running, is that at idle, part throttle, or full throttle? When you say white, do you mean white as in when they were installed or a brighter white or off white? Typically if you see carbon deposits, especially fuzzy type, it means that the plug is too cold, or if it's hard flaky type, could be oil in the combustion chamber from somewhere. The normal appearance on one side is probably due to the intake charge "washing it off". To read a plug you should run it at WOT under load, put it in neutral and kill it, then pull the plugs and read as plugs heat up the higher the rev's which burns off the carbon deposits. That'll give you a more accurate read on the plugs. Need more info to make a judgement call.

I don't know I if belive that one too much 250hp shot of nitrous on a stock LS-1.....sorry buddy...........it better be so pig rich that it can hardly idle. Plese go ahead and question me, your talking to someone who owns 3 performance shops and has had over 35 customers with ls-1 cars buy and have nitrous kits installed at my stores. If you read what I posted it specifically says "I've seen a firebird run low 11's but he had a 250 shot and all kinds of mods." I got a call in to my buddy to get the guys name and # and you can hash it out with him. I'll post that when I get it along with a vid of the run. Never said it was stock, besides, what do you think Mods are? Maybe you should stick with the higher end cars, and post on other sites.

He's not running 11"s with stock LS1 and gears. Friend of mine has LS1 firebird, runs low 14's on street tires, high 13's with slicks and gears so at this altitude, that'd be low 13's, at sea level. Heck the Viper only runs high 12's and it has 550HP vs the LS1's 400+. I've seen a firebird run low 11's but he had a 250 shot and all kinds of mods. Never be afraid to be beat, you can only win the races you participate in.

If they are mechanical, when the engine is running, you can hear clicking noise in the valve cover area. There are other ways to tell if they are hydraulic, one is when you adjust the nut down with the engine off you will see the pushrod move down instead of the valve opening. Adjustment of either is fairly simple, two methods for hydraulic, one is with pointer on TDC #1 compression adjust #1 valves to zero lash, rotate engine 90 degrees and follow firing order repeating procedure for each cylinder. When you are done you can adjust all the nuts anywhere between 1/8 and one turn. Circle track racers typically run 0 lash to rpm higher so they don't get lifter pump up, but with today's hi-tech lifters that isn't so much of a problem. One turn will ensure that unless the cam is flat, it'll never need adjusting, IMHO I go 1/2 turn down from zero. The other only works with stock cams and that is TDC#1 compression adjust half the valves, I don't have the sequence and rotate one turn and adjust the other half. Chevy tech manual has the sequence. Mechanical cams is the same as the first procedure mentioned except that you adjust to a lash specification which can be as little as .012 or as much as .030. Solid lifter cams typically produce 3 to 8 percent more torque than similar grind hydraulic cams through the rpm range, but for the street they are not as desireable unless you like to spend alot of time wrenching on the car. When using stock valve train, durability of the rockers becomes an issue and you have to check the rockers for wear pretty often.

torqueing the mains also helps on OEM blocks.

The answer to your question is no, you can't weld springs. There is no help for an incorrect spring except replacement with the correct spring. That applies to rate, length, diameter and number of coils. You should wash out your mouth with soap and go to bed without dinner.

Ok robin, we seem to be missing some parts, find something that we can make fit... Yup, it is alot more straight forward when everything is removed and you can start from scratch.

My boys z has a 9 inch with ladder bars, quite a clean install, no major headache's, replacing the rear strut towers with wheel wells was about the most major mod. I added coil over shocks, hooks good, goes straight. Just an 11.20 at 6700 density altitude on motor so that's about a 10.30 or so at sea level. 4 link would be more difficult, but not impossible, has been done. Looks alot easier to do with all the stock rear components removed.

where in NM are you from?

Melling makes a big block pump for the sbc, M77HVS, probably not necessary unless you are running .003 bearing clearance and then it is questionable IMHO. Food for thought; for every extra .001 bearing clearance you roughly double the amount of oil that will flow through the bearings at a given pressure. So when running extra clearance make sure you consider either running the HV pump or a big block pump. IMHO the stock pump with a high pressure spring works for stock and mildly modified engines running tight clearances. Also bigger pumps cost you HP and are harder on distributor gears. Dry sump is the best way to go but costs $$$$$$$.

400 to 500 grit, 28 to 32 degree crosshatch. If you go 280 the rings will be shot in 100 miles or less, that is way too rough for any ring. I think most ring manufacturers recommend 400 grit as a min for finish honing.

Goes through the lights at 6500 with the 4.56 gears now if you run it all the way out. I've been shutting it down at the first cone at the traps for bracket races and it'll run a 11.35 @ 113 just about every time doing that, was very successfull and made it to the quarter finals out of 60 cars. The converter is a 4500 stall, but since the transbrake just showed up today all I've been doing is footbraking at the lights leaving at 2000 rpm. I prefer the Torco converter in my other car alot more in relation to this one, but we'll see how that shapes up with the transbrake. The cam it has in it now was installed on the intake centerline at 106. Never checked cranking compression on it yet. Heads are CNC AFR220's, 2.08 intakes, 1.6 exhausts, 66 cc chambers. Hooks real well, goes real straight, no bobbles, no wobbles, easy to drive.

the turbo motor is a completely different engine on the stand, this cam is for the alcohol 358 that is in there now, which I'm going to play with now while I sort out the turbo/alky issues. I'm having alot of trouble getting information from the manufacturers about turbocharging a blow through alcohol system, including conflicting ideas about compression limits. Procharger people say 13:1 is ideal for their system up to 30psi, turbo people say 9.5:1 max for their turbo system up to 20psi. 9.5:1 engines on alky are hard to start even in the summer on cool nights without gas priming to initially light it off. Raises all kinds of issues on how to accomplish that. On blown alcohol engines with roots blowers I've always gone with 12:1 and run as much as 22% overdrive, so I'm not seeing the difference, here, boost is boost, no matter how it's generated. I can see cams playing a larger role in turbo motors. Cam people have given differing opinions on cam selection as well, some like it large, some think small is the way to go.