dr_hunt

IMO building a th350 to handle high hp is going to take some money. The th400 will handle alot of hp, high hp, like blown alky BBC's but properly built and some money as well. Glide's are relatively simple, cheaper to build and IMO a better route to go if cost vs. reliability are a concern. Kind of a preference thing. For a glide, things you'll need, 1.76 gearset or aftermarket gear set, th350/400 splined input shaft, steel hub for the high drum, machined pistons for more clutches in the reverse pack and high drum, quality clutches and kolene steels, master build kit, kevlar band, dual o-ring servo, t-brake, mod the oil line holes in the case to 1/4" and retap. I have both a bte pump and a stock pump, both work fine with a T-brake as long as the stator shaft is for the th350/400 input shaft, mod the case by drilling 2 holes for the t-brake. You can build a glide for about $800 less converter. They are simple and truly a DIY tranny if there ever was one. You can get crazy and spend alot more if you want but IMO it isn't necessary although the aftermarket cases look cooler when the trans is sitting in the floor of the shop. As for slower 60' times I don't think so, check the timeslip database or look at my sig.

Poured 17 more yards today, so it now looks like this; Changed concrete companies, figured 15 yards, ordered 17 yards and had 2 extra yards!!!! Cheaper too!!!! That's my migrant worker Arturo in the picture making some expansion grooves in the concrete. Almost done with this part, pouring another 8 yards and then it's time to put up the shop building and get to work on the z!

Oh my friggin god!!!!!!!!!!!!!! spun a rod is an understatement! What were the bearing clearances anyway? Did any of the cylinders get scored? That crank might be saveable hard to tell without mic'ing it. IMO I'd get a new crank, new rod and start from scratch. Check the clearances or grind and set the clearances. Also, IMO if your going to resize one rod, might as well do them all so the center to center length stays the same for the set of rods.

IMO use somebody elses machines to see what you like. I have a 250amp mig and a 200 amp tig. But if you use several you'll find you prefer one over the rest or several that will do. The higher end machines tend to have better current control, ie. no big jumps between amp settings. IMO there is no starter machine, buy what you need. A 175 amp machine is as small as I would go (my opinion) and I would definately go with gas than without. It's easier to weld, produces a higher quality weld and with alitle practice will make you look like a pro even though we know your not.

You must be kiddng? Surely your turbo didn't get shed rust for sitting for so long! Tell us it isn't so.

Basically quality rod bolts are or should be considered a necessary component to any build IMO. I think that is the general conensus here among most of the members. $80 plus resizing the big end is cheap insurance even for a stock build. IMO you want to minimize the risk by protecting the investment of a build. This is just one part of building a motor and certainly a good idea in the RB's.

This is what getting sidetracked means! Everybody needs one of these, sea doo that is, great fun, 255HP of supercharged and intercooled OH YEAH BABY!!!! Back on track now. This is what the lift looks like installed and working. Was painting the floor but ran out of paint. Going to pour another 17 yards on Thursday morning. Then the shop floor and 10' of the front apron will be done. Then it's time to fab up the shop. Don't expect it to look like much, this is all used materials except for the concrete. I'm hoping to have the cheapest shop around. About $5000 including lift and concrete.

Happy birthday Dan!

Sonic testing doesn't reveal cracks, magnafluxing does. Have that done, bore it to the next oversize if there are no cracks. Anything else would be fruitless IMO.

Put up the lift today, been about 4 days since I poured the first slab. Formed the second half of the shop floor and 10 feet of the apron full width. Ready for concrete next week to finish the shop floor and half of the apron. I'm going to pour the apron for use as a basketball court for my boy, he thinks he's MJ jr. Putting up the lift is an experience. For those of you willing to try it, make sure you have help. Standing up the uprights isn't for the weak. Used the backhoe to lift up my boy to install the top brace cause it's so friggin high, the concrete held up fine to the 15,000lb JD410D backhoe with no cracks, chips off the corners or anything. The instructions are ok, but not the best. It's doable for those with some mechanical ability and knowledge. If you can work on your z you can do this. All I have left to do is hook up the hydraulics, wire the electrical and add hyd. fluid. Getting there. Got sidetracked today and picked up an '08 Sea-doo rxt 255. I know, but the devil made me do it!

:shock: :shock: :shock:

Calle sanderson today, they say that they do fit AFR heads and so I ordered a set of the coated ones. We'll see if they do indeed fit.

It looks like you honed that with a ball hone. Doesn't look like you honed it very much either. IMO those appear to be high spots or perhaps some aluminum that was stuck to the cylinder wall. I'd suggest you have it honed with a stone type hone, that way you can remove high spots if they are minor anyway.

Considering he's about what 32, I think he's being optomistic about when it'll actually be running.

Yeah, we have a place like that here, a place called PECO, Plant equipment company. JIC fittings in steel are about 1/3 the cost in aluminum. The total weight savings in a car is probably about 1 to 1.5 lb. Not worth the cost difference for aluminum IMO. Buy your aeroquip hose on EBAY and save alot more $$$ IMO.

Correct, I've never done it, friend of mine uses that recipe, which is 20% diesel. Also if your going to use a tank heater you will also have to have one in your storage tank or you won't be able to pump it out or even flow it out. It apparently gels pretty good in cold weather. On a side note, there is no federal or state tax on biodiesel as of yet. Be looking for that to come to a screeching halt before long. Any alternative fuel will have to, at some point, have taxes added for road repairs or uncle sammy won't be very happy about it.

I have an '04 jetta tdi tiptonic auto. Bonafied 42.5 mpg average city and highway if you drive nice. The manual does better than that on the highway. I've gotten 50 driving 55 while in mexico. I have a couple of friends that have the manual and commute alot of miles. They swear by them. Oil that I use now is rotella t synthetic, gallon is $17 at walmart, filter is $13. They hold their value well, drive for a couple hundred thousand miles as well. Exhaust never rusts out, longer oil life, cheaper to operate IMO. Gets my nod. Oh, BTW, they will spin the front tires from the light without any problem, definately haul some butt for a diesel!

I think some of the facts are; 1. you need a two tank system to operate it properly, start on diesel switch to vo, back to diesel before you shut it down. 2. Absolutely won't work in cold weather without a tank heater 3. Several recipies that I've heard of, filtering, mixing 50 gal of vo with 10 gal diesel and 2 gallons of gas, etc. etc. 4. The filtering costs money to do it properly, as does the handling, having storage, etc. If you drive alot you may need to process 200+ gallons a week. 5. Lots of collections of vo. I have a friend that does that and he's at the restaurant every week, hauling it home, pouring it into his drums and then taking the jugs back to the restaurant. Here it's free, but some restaurants have large vats that are full of crap and a mess to filter. I think that the total cost is cheaper than diesel no doubt, but if you figure your time into it, then perhaps not, depends on what your time is valued at IMO. Me, I don't have time or the inclination to mess with it, and I dont' drive that much anymore. Hence I'll build a turbo z with a v8, efi and hope that it'll get 25mpg for my daily driver here in town. Not to mention having alot of excess hp.

Crower makes alot of custom one off cranks. I don't know if hank the crank is still alive in AZ, but he would be another one.

Ok, bear with me here. This is alittle journey before we start on the z. But we'll eventually get to the z once we finish all this other stuff. In fact it's necessary to complete the z so here we go. For all you SLACKERS out there, yes, you know who you are. Like Mr. larry Cole (cozy z cole) who has a job checking out hooters, or Dan (superdan) who, well, we aren't sure what he does, but it isn't much according to his wife. Then there is Ron Tyler and Braap who spend more time on the board than anyone else, so we know they are slackers. I, um am not a slacker, just disguised as one. I got up at 5AM today and poured 10 yards of concrete for the first half of the shop! So, now we form the rest of the shop. I calculated that I needed 8.2 yards and ordered 10yards only to be short 1/4 yard. Friggin concrete guys, said he could get 10 yards on a single rear discharge truck. LIARS! So, while your sipping your toddie or drinking your beer being a slacker, just think of this poor schmuck working his A$$ off. Oh, those plates with the bolts, those are for the lift. I built them out of 1/4" steel, drilled the mount pattern on them, ran bolts up from the underside and welded them. Then I attached eight 1/2" j bolts to the bottom side by welding the nuts to the plate. There are 4 other plates, not sure if you can see them all but they are at the corners and one on the left side halfway down. They are for welding the upright 5-1/2" casings to.

Quit doing illegal stuff.

Do a search, I'm sure I saw a thread where someone was injecting meth here on a FI motor. Said it worked awesome. A single large injector mounted in the intake near the TB would work great by cooling the intake charge, not to mention it's like 130 octane or so.

Well, stoichiometrically your going to have to figure that one out. Alky is like 6:1 and gas is like 11.5:1. Personally I wouldn't mix it, but inject it below the carb through a NOS spray nozzle system. Anything mixed over about 10% and your going to have to jet up. Alky does nasty things to carbs, pumps, fuel pressure regulators, etc. if used long term. On my alky carbs (800 and 900 cfm) I typicaly jet about 150 square for sea level. Those size jets are friggin huge compared to a gast jet. Most people just run straight methanol and as a race fuel methanol is typically mixed with nitromethane.

Yup, he just made himself a bogey on the admin radar screen!

Happy B day pete, I mailed you a towel to clean yourself up with.