dr_hunt

Good advice actually. Valve train dynamics is extremely difficult to model. Cam manufacturers have spent countless hours using special equipment and high speed cameras to "see" what actually is happening and to evaluate failures. Being that as it is, the big cam manufacturers have the know about what springs it takes to make a particular cam work. Excessive valve spring pressure only creates more wear and heat and wastes power. Getting the lightest valve train is what you really need to concentrate on if high rev's are desired. But even if high rev's are not desired it's still a big bonus in my opinion

Level or below is also on the aeromotive website as well I believe. It's a good idea actually.

The real challenge will be the billet aluminum block and cast iron liners, oh, and the double overhead 4V cylinder heads, not to mention the billet crank, rods, roots blower etc, etc. We fully expect that to be completed and running by Christmas you know.

You don't want to run any trans in an overdrive condition in the 1/4 mile. Parasitic losses are high and stresses typically exceed design strength IMO. Direct gearing is what you want for your high gear in the 1320.

Sounds odd to me. If it is .030 then it'd be wise to only hone it another .009 to get to 1mm rather than bore, then you'd be in good base metal for sure IMHO.

You can't have your cake and eat it too. HP takes fuel to make, period, end of story. The ability to make big power and still have economy is mostly relegated to turbocharged engines IMO. With your minimum goal of 250HP that's a mostly stock NA 350 chevy, NA351w ford, turbo'd L6, turbo'd 4cyl. I'd think most all would be fairly close on mpg's. Of course if you get more HP then that'd open up options like the LS1, hot NA ford or chevy, and relegate the L6 and L4 to well built motors equalling or exceeding the price of the v8's IMHO.

Relax, my friend, it isn't the end of the world as we know it. Patience will prove to be the smart choice at this point. Also watch the language, I edited your title somewhat. Keep working on them, I'm sure that you'll get it resolved.

How much HP you get depends on the heads, cam, and of course whether or not the shortblock can handle it. 1000 to 1200HP is not uncommon with a blown 350 depending on fuel. Edwards engines built one last year that I personally watched make 1000+HP on the engine dyno, had LA ent. crank, crower steel rods, JE blower pistons, Dart Pro 1 alum heads, solid roller cam, 2 - 4bbl carbs. Buddy has a 1200+HP blown 350 with and enderle bug catcher on it for 10K complete. Ran 6.90's at over 200mph in a 1850lb dragster. I think that equates to about 1150 to the wheels. Stock block, steel crank, alum rods, blower pistons (9:1 comp), Dart sportsman 2 heads (pro ported), roller cam, 6-71 race blower, enderle, on alky.

Ok, no need to jump on the bandwagon here, I think the message was well put by Paul.

Well, I have a charles Daly O/U that is older than the hills with BNP proof markings but it was $7500 20 years ago. I love it and can't hardly miss. The trick is to get one that fits properly. You can shoot any gun well if it fits properly. Custom options like back boring and forcing cone lengthening are really important and you DO need to pattern your gun and either tailor your loads or switch to the best patterning brand, try different chokes, etc, etc. 8 segment crimps pattern better than 6 IMO and rolled crimps pattern better than 8 segment IMO. I load my own except for dove hunting and then it's easier to buy the cheapo's. Personally, I'd get a good quality gun and have a custom stock whittled out of wood. They use a completely adjustable stock, keep changing it until you like it, take measurements and voila, your in business.

Over here at Solidtechnology, you get dyno tune plus strip tuning with a wideband for $400. Seriously, I think you got ripped as some people just don't really know what the hell they are doing. Just to give you a rundown on the dsm tuning. Baseline pull on the dyno. Editing, 3 more dyno pulls with editing. Street driving with editing 4 strip pulls with editing. Parameters recorded, AFR, timing, fuel, IAT before and after intercooler, water temp, egt's, boost. All recorded on a CD and given to my friend! Car made 600fwhp, ran 11.50 at 126 in a 3500lb car at race weight, but also had the tuner sitting in the passenger seat. Big guy, 6'4, probably another 220lb or so. Do the math on that one. Motor could use more timing, but intercooler had reached it's limit. Boost could have gone up as well, but with the intercooler, it was a wash. A gt42r turbo is supposed to support 600fwhp and it certainly did. Here we are several months later and the car still screams!

Post count does not make you rank any higher than anyone else, it just means you post alot. Posting alot without saying anything or just blabbering to have a post really detracts alot from your online reputation. The little green reputation dots probably have more significance. But in the real world we are not judged by our green dots or post count on hybridz. That is unless you want it on your tombstone.

Nice name there, did someone give you that name or did you come by it naturally? Just kidding.

Oh, I see that this it a FWD trans. Some of the clutches look alittle burned. IMHO you need a master rebuild kit with clutches, steels and bushings. You may need other thrust washers or bearings as well, but you can buy them individually from a trans shop. I'm not sure about the chain, but if your not in the know about what can be re-used it's better to replace it. You will still need to check clutch pack clearance as well as other clearances when you go back to gether. I've seen some trans shops use scotch brite on the steels to deglaze them, but IMHO that is not the way to go, GO NEW!

A 383 isn't really a step up unless it has proper heads IMO. You may see 350's with better numbers. My little 357 made 600HP with 13:1's, AFR 220's, mild roller cam on alky.

I might buy it anyway and use it for my daily driver. Another road trip??!!!

OK, I bid $4520 on it, who's next?

Nah, this thread will self destruct in 5 weeks.

I can't wait until she calls me wanting a v8 transplant! Katie is a jewell. Very nice girl!

I built a 4g63 just a few months ago, made 600fwhp and ran 11.50 at 127mph with 2 guys in the awd eclipse car (3500lb with driver)!!! And that's with 8000 ft density altitude. I think it'd make a few more hp with some more tuning, but that's about the limit for the intercooler and turbo (gt42r) at 27psi. IMHO, the engine can handle alot more if it's built properly and tuned. I used stroker crank, no balance shafts, eagle rods, JE pistons, I ported the head, , custom cams, matched the intake, custom exhaust manifold, aem engine management system and a host of other mods to make everything work right. You could easily IMHO get a z into the 9's with that engine!

I paid $3500 for mine. Someone else on here had one for sale oin EBAY that went for $3800 NIB. I don't know what Banks gets for theirs. Mine was the race version with SS exhaust logs and 16psi waste gates.

I have the banks kit, it's all quality.

I swap engines by myself, that way I know it's right the first time. But I guess it depends on your level of knowledge, skill, tools, shop space, time and $$$.

You have two options. My engine machine shop would neutral balance your existing flywheel if you have one. Or you can buy an aftermarket piece from makers like McCloud and others. If you don't see what your looking for call them and they will neutral balance one for you.

IMO sb fords weak point is the 2 bolt block and the well documented history of block failure at about 500HP. Probably not a good example. Side thrust causes more wear on the cylinder wall and piston skirts, granted that, but it's not the deciding factor. Heck all the 302's I've ever taken apart had cracked piston skirts (those with cast pistons anyway) Well IMO rod/stroke ratio is more important in higher HP and rpm applications than in stock form, mainly due to rpm limitations of the cam and valve train. Basically if your not going to turn over 5K rpm then it's insignificant IMO. Oldsmobile rods are like most, weak bolts. Pontiac rods (400 455) are complete junk if stock. Most stock rods have their limits goes without saying. Peak stress on the rod is at exhaust TDC and it actually pulls the rod bolts apart. This is why turbo motors do so well with the increased HP output, as the piston sees some resistance during that phase of the exhaust since the intake is open and the piston sees some pressure or resistance IMO. Higher rpm will never last as long as lower rpm, period end of story. Basically the internal stresses are exponential with engine rpm as a rule of thumb for the v8 and the stress at 6K is double that of 5k and 7k is double that at 6K. Obviously piston speed is a big factor and IMO is the limiting factor for the most part. That being said, that is the basic rule for cubic inches, tq and rpm. More cubes, means more tq and less rpm so you don't have to spin it to get the tq and hp that you would a smaller engine. But the discussion is basically null unless you have budget constraints since the aftermarket has provided the everyday guy with options and parts that directly affect durability, like rods, cranks, blocks, pistons, heads, valves, springs, etc, etc. If we are talking about stock parts (OEM) being used to generate 500HP then yes, it's more of a factor, if not, then your basically pissing in the wind cause we would be comparing apples to watermelons.