dr_hunt

If you have a round bore, ie. bored and honed with deck plates, then moly is the way to go for most applications. chrome is relegated to offroad applications IMO. Street use a regular tension oil ring. Drag use a low tension oil ring. You can get a double moly ring set, which is moly faced top and second. I've used them before and they seem to work well. If your not using a round bore then use cast rings.

IMO the total seal rings don't work very well for street applications. A good speed pro file fit with the gaps correct will be fine. I don't think you will ever notice a 3 to 10hp difference when the engine is new and when it's got 30K miles on it the leakdown is about the same IMO.

I run a 800 cfm aerosol billet by C&S specialties on the 350 and I run a 900cfm aerosol billet by C&S also on the 406. IMO your going to be looking for at least an 830cfm to get the most out of your combination. annular discharge boosters offer the best signal. aerosol billets top that by a few hp on the dyno but are pricey. check out http://www.candsspecialties.com

BTW, Russa was banned at his own request. He just came here to badmouth Jon.

We will moderate that post. Read the rules, live by them or visit another site.

For alky applications where compression is 13:1 or higher, you won't get it to fire with wide plug gaps. Especially on alky anything over .025 and it'll miss on the top end.

And you thought they called me "Doc" for nothing?

I'd let my dog lick it, it'll be fine. If you waited longer than 3 hours the skin next to the cut will be dead anyway and they won't be able to stitch it. Besides, it'll probably be the "I got away from the shark" story in the bar next week.

Way too much torque and the transfer case was not mounted to the frame, which it will be now. We disassembled the th350 this AM, the clutches were begining to burn, so I opted for the th400 and another np208 case, which now resides in the '33 dodge. I just got finished about 10PM installing it all. My buddy Tony came over and helped me stab the trans and t case and bolt everything up. Works great. So, now to fab the t case mount to the frame and then another one from the back of the driver side cylinder head to the lower frame rail in case the frame is flexing under torque. We'll see. I hope to get some good vids that may show just what the frame is doing.

According to Grumpy Jenkins and GM steam pockes would develop in street engines that never saw over 4000 rpm, which is what Grumpy is referring to. I drilled the holes on some 882 heads back in the 70's and when I took it apart to rebuild it the holes were plugged with the typical rust that develops. Since then I never put them in and have logged over 225K street miles with a 406 and sportsman 2 heads without a problem. Nowadays I hardly even stay under 4K rpm. I'm not sure if that's a fact or myth, but in my experience that's a myth, and I think that is attributed to the high efficiency aluminum radiators and high flow water pumps of today that we didn't have back then. BTW Mr. Lazier is a well respected knowledgeable mechanic that is widely known worldwide. That's great if he can help you.

The stock bore size on a 400 is 4.125 inches. The stock stroke is 3.75 inches. The good casting # for the 2 bolt main ends in 509. Converting it to 4 bolt main is a good idea if your planning on making more than 500HP IMO. IMO there are no cons to a 400 vs a 383 if you are using the same parts. Both take good heads to realize the potential of the larger cubes. The 400 can use a larger cam and will make more tq and consequently more hp. For most street builds opt for the 5.7 or 6 inch long I beam/hbeam rods versus the stock 5.565 rods unless you happen find a set of new/used eagle 5.565 h beam rods on Ebay, which I have seen a time or two. Remember it all comes down to parts selection to make it all work properly and spend most of your money on heads followed by rods IMO.

No shrapnel. But I don't think it would matter anyway, I have a 1/8" steel plate for a floor board for that reason!!!

Well, got the 509 all fired up, carb fixed, tuned, etc. Sounded meaner than hell. Smoked tires up and down the street, wow'ed a few friends and was having fun on the small 235r 16MS tires. So, having all that fun, we decided to bolt on the big 39.5 x 17Wide x 15 cut boggers and have even more fun with all this new HP. A few romps in the back yard proved to be a little much for the old 2wd th350 trans case! So, my buddies came to rescue. Tomorrow I'm going to have a 4wd th350 case with all my internals installed and I'll slap that baby in tomorrow afternoon. That and make the 4wd braces and bracket for the tansfer case to the frame.

That sucks! A kindly reminder of the perils of going faster than anyone else. I wish him godspeed and his family all my sympathies.

Nice vid, revving nicely. Typically a backfire like that indicates a lean condition and could possibly be a header leak at the heads or collector.

Next on the list of upgrades in order is; a complete arizona z car front end, a new narrower 9 inch rear, weld prostars all the way around, and a 421 inch motor with 18 degree heads.

Really, drive it, it'll make you mess your pants. The front end needs replacing in entirety.

I was offended, and you seem to be the pot calling the kettle black in relation to "ass". This is our sandbox, you play by our rules, not yours. Your stay on the island will be determined by your words alone.

Nice, but now I have to have one just to keep up with you in the parts dept.

My boy bought his 260z and I was looking for v8 swap info. I had remembered the scarab, but a quick google search and I found hybridz.org. I lurked around as a guest for about 4 months before joining. Then I read posts and threads for awhile longer before I ever posted anything. I was amazed at all the info here. I've never really went anywhere else. What's your all's story?

Why don't you do a search over at zcar.com.

Finally some common sense! I'm sorry for the tangent as well. Knock it off guys and take your little "discussion" offline. To sum it all up, the 305 can be stroked to about 330+ inches. The answer to that is why? With the 305 possessing 2 bolt main caps the weaknesses in the block become apparent at moderate HP levels. The much better route is to go 350 or even 400 cubic inches. The 350 can be had for cheap, I have several laying around and know where there are several more for free! Everyone is going LSx these days so they seem to be available more here at least.

That sounds pretty quick actually. The MPH directly applies to the HP the engine is putting out. The ET is directly proportional to the TQ the engine is putting out. HP is derived from TQ in a mathematical formula as well. Turbo cars almost always trap higher at the same ET IMO. IMO all motor cars ET quicker at the same MPH as turbo cars do. I doubt the "glide" is holding you back, but instead the converter you have is holding you back. If you change input shafts and front pumps, you can run a turbo 350/400 tq converter and get you a stall of around 3500 or so. Powerglide input shafts are known for early failure in high hp applications. New ones for a turbo spline are about $100 and a front pump with proper stator shaft and bushed is about $200. Then your launches will be alot harder like you want them to be and it will live. Also the 1.82 gearsets are not as heavy duty as the 1.76 ratio's are. If you see them side by side you'll understand why that is.

Actually, it is your grill, go to the body shop you'l see yours is missing. Oh, and BTW, thanks!

I used to do that to production blocks. In fact the TT350 is just that. That and deck plugs, clearancing front of the block, thread all the galley plug holes, plug all the holes on either side of the cam in the lifter valley, install screens, etc, etc., you end up with as much $$$ as you would buying a dart or world block for $1800, but you end up with a superior block buying aftermarket. Soooooooooooo, nowadays aftermarket looks pretty good!