dr_hunt

Back in the day, '70's, I had acquired a 350 chevy for $50. Had a cracked block. Took it apart and shazaam!, 12.5:1 TRW .060 over pistons, crower .510 lift 248@.050 cam and 882 heads. Well, I junked the block, got another and bored it .060. Smoked everything in town having it topped with a Edelbrock scorpion intake, 750 holley and the 882 casting heads I ported. Those pistons went through 3 blocks. You can rebuild it, just have to change blocks and .040 over blocks are cheap. Just cause they are iron and "old technology" doesn't mean they won't work just fine. Grumpy jenkins can take a set of old technology cast iron bowtie heads on a 327 and go 9's in a vega. If you remember the vortec's only flow alittle better than 882's. http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/41598/index4.html Edit: Flow numbers don't mean squat in terms of HP your going to get, it depends on combination!

I've heard of the same problem, there's a dyno in Alb that has performed tuning on several vettes, some of which blew engines on the street after the dyno tuning sessions.

No, I don't think so. I'm going to try to keep the structural body parts incase this thing ever gets parted out and sold.

IMO the oil pan is not an area you want to dabble in as far as modifications go. The big manufacturers have spent alot of time coming up with the designs that they have cause they work. Internal windage can be a problem. The chevy 6 quart pan for the vettes work well. I have two B&B pans and one Canton pan. I also have a Wyo tech 7 quart pan that I'm reserving to give to someone I don't like. The wyotech pan aerates the oil so bad that it looses pressure as rpm's go up, even when the car isn't moving, and it still has the stock baffling in place. Holding 80psi oil pressure at 1000 rpm idle is down to 50 by 3000 and down to 20 at 7000. Idle it down goes back to 80. If the car is driving and you brake hard the oil pressure went to 0. Switched to a B&B drag pan with 7 quart capacity, full length baffling, windage tray and problem went away. In fact thats what I ran at SEZ.

They call it mud bogs here but the guys that win make it through the pit. I've seen a couple that were planting some good power, getting good tire speed early and pretty much staying on top of the mud is the trick. The stockers and modifieds are painfull to watch them flog the motors for 15 seconds to 2 minutes or until they don't move anymore. I know I can make enough power, keep it light and be very competitive. They mostly use stock chevy or ford frames, cut out as much of the body as they can and go from there. It seems that they are just to front end heavy and once that front end sinks in the mud, it just pushes mud and has to fight the whole way. The other problem I see is that they have to jack the vehicle up so high to get tire clearance that they are always breaking drivelines cause the driveline angle is all wrong. That is why the frame is 10" deep, I can come off the lower rail for the stock engine mounts and off the upper rail for a midplate. The reason for the 8" drop in the frame front and back is to gain clearance without having to lift the frame, straightens out the driveline angle, gets the lower ladder bar level with the ground. I'll take some more pics once I get the front and rear end mounted so you guys can see what I'm thinking on driveline angle. Looks bitchin' right now with the front axle under it. Driveline angles should be about like a stock 4x4 not lifted. One guy has a S-10 with a 496" BBC and it was pretty impressive. Another guy has a 477" BBC in a datsun pickup with tractor tires and his worked real good, but they don't have a class for tractor tires so he's going to have to go another route. A buddy of mine has a short bed stepside '79 chevy, weighs 3800 lb, has 44's, dana 60 up front, dana 80 in the back, totally gutted, 406sbc and he wins or places most all the time. It's a good roller motor making some good power with my old sportsman 2 heads and a .630 lift solid roller, dual quads. Have you ever tried to pick up a stock GM frame that is just the frame? My god, that thing is so heavy it isn't funny. Build it light, wind it tight!

It's a passenger side dana 60 out of a one ton chevy, has 4.56 gears I got it at an auction for $40 so I'm going to keep it. The dana 70 is also chevy, 4.10's I believe, can't remember. I've got three 10 bolts and I figure that they will work being as light as this is. I can pick up either the front end or rear end with cab and bed on up to my shoulders with a little strain. I figure the frame, cab and bed weigh about 450 lb. I think weights should be motor 500, trans and transfer 300, rear end 250, front end 300. I'm hoping for 1800lb total wet, 2030 with my lard butt. That alcohol 350 was planting about 380rwhp here so that should really work well. I'm going to cut the front of the frame off when I mount the front end tomorrow, I left the frame original pipe length which was 21 feet, which is what you see in the pics. Basically I want the motor as far back in relation to the front axle as possible without changing the original motor position. Here the rules say no set back motors, they don't say you can't move the front end further out. No chain drives, must have transfer case, otherwise I'd run the glide and a chain drive and be lighter still.

Thanks! Next SEZ, I'm thinking of bringing the twin turbo Monte SS. If I get a longer trailer, might bring both cars. Believe it or not the B&M holeshot at 2500 stall works pretty good for mild street motors. The first v8 z I ever rode in had a 350, 2.02 heads, xxxxx151 350hp/350 cam from GM, dual plane intake, scarab kit, th350, B&M holeshot converter and would squat and haul ***, beat everything around here except exotic roller cammed race cars. It was wicked!

It depends, I'm probably going to put paddles on the back at some point. I'm just hoping that it stays on top of the mud, then I think it'll be alright requiring frequent knucke joint changes. I've got a Dana 60 front, Dana 70 front, but they are so stinking heavy. It's going to be 144 inch wheel base so I should be around 60/40 weight bias, front to rear, we'll see.

Here's a link to the pic. '33 dodge half ton p/u coming soon to terrorize the locals! The 350 alcohol motor, th350 and NP208 t case, 10 bolt front, dana 60 rear, 4.10 gears both ends, 39.5x15's all the way around weld 17x15 aluminum wheels. Hope it weighs less than 2000 lb. Going coil over shocks as well. Check out the custom 1.625 tube frame. Cab is mounted, bed is off till we get the rear on Monday. Trans and tcase rebuilt and ready to pick up. Going 4500 stall and hoping I can keep it in high range. http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/medium/s_stuff_184.jpg

If you use a trans brake it is a brutal launch, but I find that foot braking with the engine at idle and stabbing it produces a 4500 flash on my 4000 stall and the trans brake will stall it 4300 at WOT. Flashing the converter from an idle produces bigger wheelies and feels alot smoother, but the t brake feels more brutal and probably is, especially on parts. Remember that advertised stall doesn't mean much and they are pretty easy on parts IMO. A 3000 stall with your motor may stall 3200 or may stall less cause the z is so light and starts to move right away. All of these things factor in the stall equation. I think that everyone can chime in but a 3000 is about right for street and a 3500 is probably ok for a z cause they are so light.

I did alittle searching about alignment specs for the s30 and didn't find what I felt like was an appropriate answer to my question. I read the techno toy thread in the vendors column and I also learned that Mike was going to do an install with pic's. Ok, so what I think I'd like to see, if it hasn't been done is a sticky with alignment specs for different applications. I saw a thread that wanted spec's for street and one for road race, but nothing else. Mikelly and others are a wealth of information on road racing. But what I'd like to know is how caster, camber effects handling characteristics in a nutshell and what spec range would probably suit what type of driving application. I understand that there is basically no adjustment as stock. But what does it take to get it all to adjust? I was looking at the adjustable TC rods and the techno toy plates, but then I have to get struts and coil overs right? Would somebody put it all together. I'm looking to redo the front of the z with coilovers, camber plates, adjustable TC rods and then get it aligned to work best in drag situation. Help would be appreciated, and maybe if it's all put together right it would make a sticky.

Back a few years ago, I was headed to the dyno edge with my car on a trailer behind my dodge to see what kind of HP my 406 was putting down. While on the freeway, I got my doors literally blown off by a white mustang that must of been doing 150+mph. Well, arrived at the dyno and there is that same mustang sitting in the parking lot. Nice car, super mondo turbo, water to air, totally gutted, funny car style cage, etc. It was Anthony Dickson. He just got the car running and while waiting for dyno time took a buddy for a ride. Mind you his car wasn't tuned with a wideband yet. They came back with 4 cop cars in tow all with lights on. The license plate on the mustang was registered to another car, and Anthony was begging not to get his car impounded and a quick trip to jail. His wife was looking on in amazement, anthony probably hasn't begged like that since the last time she locked him out of the house. Fortunately for him the cop had a mustang race car and had compassion for him. I don't think he even got a ticket and one of his buddies went and snatched a trailer for the ride home. Anyway, the mustang makes it on the dyno, fires up, smokes abit. He says, it's a new budlong motor, gotta break in. It lays down 1200rwhp, actually maxes out the dyno while leaving a huge puddle of oil under the downpipe. I say they hurt the motor, they say turbo seals. In the end it was a piston gone. That's what happens when you boost it with out tuning. Anthony obviously had pleanty of $$$ to get that fixed and several other motors as well that had the same fate before he sold the car for $30K.

Ultimately, you'll have to take into consideration the rear gear, tires and your nos. With a 4K stall I can drive on the street fine, the z is soo light that it just scoots along even with a powerglide. I can take off in high gear and leave rubber for 30 feet from the slicks on the street with a .645 lift roller and 270 duration at .050. Roller cams seem to be inherently different in terms of low end compared to solid's or hydraulics, although I would consider a 3K the minimum for hot street or mild race type motors on the street. A .600 lift solid roller isn't that big, what is the duration at .050? Also the NOS will have a big impact on the stall of the converter. Edit: Also whether or not the 700 is built right will dictate how long it lasts. In stock form they are kind of weak and it sounds like your going to be making alot of power.

The valentine is a must have for any street driving IMO. I've had the rest now for the last 13 or so years I've got the best, Valentine! Now if I can just figure out how to add another garage and a GN with a stage 2 engine, I'll be....., well, I won't want......, crap, I'll still want more!

Jim's Paint and body in our town is painting the z Kandy apple red over a CO6 base with flames in exchange for his logo to be painted on both doors. Since my boys z is race only, that's fine. Nothing like a $4K body work and paint job for a little advertising. We even got to pick the colors!

Now that's motor! U keeping the dry sump I'm sure!!!!????? It's the only way to fly! By the way, I got a new Valentine 1, updated my old one for $230 delivered. Used it to go to SEZ, wouldn't leave home without it!!!! Just a friendly reminder, looks like you may need one too...... That is the most bitcchhhiinnnn motor!!! Congrats

I had sportsman II's ported, on my 406, ran a best of 12.33 in the monte. Switched to AFR 220's, same everything else, 11.70, n'uff said.

I dunno, watched it several times, he was lined up out of the groove on the right side, skated around quite a bit in first gear, I don't have sound here at work, but it looks like the 1-2 shift got him, but never got out of it to recover and over corrected IMO. Better to back out of it and live another day, just ask Brandon Bernstein. I'm all for going fast but if the car is all over the track, it's costing you ET, probably the race, and could cost you alot more. I guess I'm real conservative, but I'm old, and I know when to fold 'em!

grumpy, we just need a port to connect to your brain and download information, what's the possibility of getting that done?

With those rods, you'll want to be conservative in duration and not spin the motor real high IMO. 250/260 and around .600 to .630 lift will give you all you want and more to 6500 rpm IMO.