dr_hunt

With those rods, you'll want to be conservative in duration and not spin the motor real high IMO. 250/260 and around .600 to .630 lift will give you all you want and more to 6500 rpm IMO.

after you apply your coat of primer, splatter coat it with some cheap black paint or any color for that matter that shows up, then when you sand it you sand it until you get all the spots off, unless it's a low spot, then it's clearly marked.

That's the spirit, then it'll be your tool that is unmistakable! I would think you could do 1/4" tap in a stock pushrod. I don't know I used a 10/32 machine thread.

his ricegirl left

Education is the key to everything, it's something that can't be taken away from you. 21, your a pup, don't worry, move in with dad, that's what dad's are for. Get it together, make it happen, he'll be proud and you'll be glad you spent some extra time with him.

If you get the cast iron ones, they are $900, stainless is $1800. 1/2" thick flanges, weld joint pipes all real nice, great fitment, just interferes with the strut tower. I have an idea that a guy could make some much the same but bring them farther forward to fit better.

he's undeserving though

Well, that's easy for you to say, since your top dog. JK! Is it lonely there at the top? Probably not for long, these boys are putting the hurt on us all motor guys. Probably going to have to go turbo and spank 'em back!

with rice boy

and does wheelies

John is right, when I weld 2 inch steel plate to repair my excavator bucket, that is the method that I used. It takes alot of prep to be able to do that in fact I had to have the pieces cut with a plasma cutter on an angle to get the bevel I wanted. I have a 400 amp lincoln LN25 MIG as well that runs off my Lincoln SA300 welder, and I can tell you from experience that having the right welder makes all the difference. Like I said, it depends on what receptacle and power service you have. 220V is cheaper to run, takes less amps and is more efficient. 110V is more convenient. Duty cycle is a concern if your doing a large project like rebuilding a z, at least I would think that anyway. If you aren't doing big jobs, the smaller unit would work fine. How much extra is the 175 vs the 135?? Something to consider since you probably plan on having it a long time.

If you really play with a mig, you'll find that you get a better weld, (penetration, better melding of the parts) if you run proper heat and wire speed. It's hard to explain in writing but if your caking the weld on, then the heat is too low and the wire speed is too high. I typically weld cage thickness with about 175 amps and wirespeed on about a setting of 2 out of 10 on my welder. Welds are low fillets, almost look like tig.

I have to agree with you jakeshoe, that's what I use, made my own with a stock pushrod, mig, two nuts and machine screw. Works like a champ!

I'd rather have the early bronco, than the exploder! I had a '75 bronco with a 302 and 3 speed on the tree. Awesome machine, regret selling it to this day!

In my experience the type of rocker arm you are using is critical. There is a big difference between using the comp pro magnum or high tech stainless roller rockers and any brand of aluminum roller rocker as the pushrod cup is obviously lower towards the cam than the steel rocker cause the steel rockers are thinner sectionally than aluminum. And if you really want to screw things up, get the new lift right rockers that have the pushrod cup even lower. So, if your even thinking of changing rockers, get the rockers first, then figure pushrod length.

I hear they can tatoo stripes on it to make it seem longer than it really is. Of course Thumper and On3go told me that after a 30 pack of rolling rock and Nawwwsssss. The smaller welders are fine, depends on what you plan on doing and how much you plan on doing. The smaller welders have a low duty cycle at their higher amp range as do all welders. I've got a 250 amp mig and I've had to use it at the higher ranges so it depends on what you plan on encountering. Better to be packing a big johnson than a little johnson IMO. That is if you have the right receptacle to plug in to. Ha-ha!

Garret and Ivo

I don't see the humor in tearing stuff up for the fun of it, but then again I don't have disposable $$$. Who is that guy?

It's not that you don't need 175, but if you do and you only have 135, what are you going to do. Kind of like having 8 inches and wishing you did!

Grumpy's right on the rods. Personally I don't like the PM rods. My banks' twin turbo kit was made in the early 80's and their kit on a stock 350GM motor with 882 heads made 761HP on 16lb boost intercooled on pump gas. Granted better heads will work better and darts will work better than the stock heads, but the dart's have such lousy exhaust flow and I/E flow percentages, that they will at some point become the restriction as compared to better heads like the edelbrock victor jr., brodix, afr, canfields. But it all comes down to $$$ and how much boost you plan on running.

To answer your question, I'd steer clear of NOS being that your engine has that many miles on it. NOS is hard on parts and IMO NOS is not for a daily driver.

And I thought I was busy. Grumpy, you take the cake there big guy. Funny, I was just thinking that I wanted to cross reference the Autolite AR3932 plugs I'm using now and switch to an NGK plug cause I hate the autolites. Then you go and give me directions on how to get what I want to know, Thanks!

I'm actually amazed at what the little inliner can take, I'd assume that with some rod bolts 7K is certainly not out of the question.