TheNeedForZ

Thanks for you all who offered help, I decided to call off the whole thing because the fiberglass parts I was going to buy give only 30~50 lbs weight reduction for the amount of money(500~550 total) I have to spend to get them to my door. Thanks again

I am going to our local walmart now to see if I can find similar scammers.

Forgot to say : I am offering 50$USD for helping me out. I know it's not much...but I don't have a lot to spend either.

Saw the ad. Car looks a little banged up. Someone might be interested in the engine. Afterall it's only 200$ http://seattle.craigslist.org/pts/141321576.html

That was just a little joke. I wasn't making fun of you, my bad, my bad. If you are a father but are still in touch with the fun side that makes you cool. Back when I was growing up, my parents wouldn't even allow Nintendo or whatever. I would put a lot of gauges in my car in an effort to monitor everything even though I don't need them...that's just the kind of thing I would do.

Optimus Prime told him to buy it.

I am looking for someone who can help pick up and ship a pair of fiberglass fenders and a fiberglass hatch in Campbell California. I talked to the seller on phone but he is unwilling to go out of his way to package and ship unless I offer "a price he can't refuse". Help please.

Talk to John at http://www.baddogparts.com/ He sells connectors that joins floor support to engine bay frame rail and connectors that joins floor support to rear frame. You won't see it on his website because the product is new. Modern Motorsport is in BC.

"DOT" on this forum has a Jag V12 Z

73TPIZ, I searched on wikipedia and yes pot=potentiometer=variable resistor. So the Racetech guy and I were referring to the same thing. We just called it by diff names and I thought pot and variable resistor are different things. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Potentiometer The pot has three leads that allows it to function as a voltage divider. If you have the control knob with you, check how many leads are used. If it only uses two leads then it probably functions as we discussed. If it uses all three leads then it gets tricky.

Different people different answers. Once my car is back together I'll start on the turbo motor. I will be using Z31 MAF(ditching the AFM outright) and reprogrammed '88 maxima ECU.

Wow Awesome! I am surprised it's not 400hp yet!

Or maybe you'll come home one day and your car will have an extra turbo installed. Meanwhile she's playing with an empty box that says "Garrett"

Because it is evil. Trap door afm measures air more correctly at low air flow because the air flow hit the door square on. After the door opens wide it cannot measure air as correctly anymore because air flow do not hit the trap door head on. Since the measurement is no longer very accurate at higher rpm, they opt to use a predetermined fuel map. The fuel map inside ECU makes you lean out.

That depends on the value of resistance you want to duplicate. Most resistors come in large, whole numbers :1,5,25,100,etc. If you really want precisely 2.6 ohm then it becomes difficult to create. I would find out how much resistance is when the knob is at 30%, then find out the resistance in the NOS relay, then make up the difference with RadioShack resistors. i.e. 30%rich = 40 ohms, NOS relay = 11 ohms, then you need to make up 29 ohms with Radioshack resistors. This idea you have is a good idea because the knob is eliminated. You can't knock the adjustment out accidentally. But I don't trust relays because they are coils, when you turn on and off the circuit the magnetic field builds/collapses and cause the voltage in the circuit to change. In the worst case scenario it might fry the computer.(the 50000v spark discharge created in inductive discharge ignition is the result of building/collapsing magnetic field in coils) That depends on how meaning is assigned to the voltage values If you need 1v for 30%rich and the relay make 5v step down to 3v, you can make 3v drop to 1v by adding resistors. If you need full 5 volt for 30% rich and the relay has taken it down to 3 volts....you can't add voltage. You can seperate the enrichment circuit and NOS circuit into completely isolated circuits but use a double-pole-single-throw switch to turn on both at the same time(and pray the NOS is turned on WITH enrichment) OR you can put a solid state relay(photocoupler or transistor type of thing) in the enrichment circuit to control the NOS solenoid circuit. This setup GUARANTEES the NOS will not be turned on unless the enrichment circuit is on first. If you suddently unplug the enrichment knob during a spray the NOS will go dead immediately.

The solenoid is part of the starter. Unless you were really saying "I think it might be the starter motor." Check your Haynes manual, P151. Shows how to test the coil.

check the engagement solenoid.

What years of 240sx are you referring to? I got different pin height in KA24 and VG30DE/VG30DETT based on this program http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/ The VG30DE/DETT has 31.75. VG30E not in there but IIRC 31.75 as well. KA24 has 34.00

That's why I did ask "how many volts does the NOS switch(solenoid) use?" It seems very tempting and simple to wire the NOS switch inside the enrichment control circuit. However thing can be more complicated than that. Here's what I would find out : What is the operating voltage of the solenoid? How much resistance is in that solenoid? If the answer is "about 4.5 volts, nearly zero ohms" then you can wire the NOS solenoid with the control knob in series(not parallel). If the answer is anything other than that, you have to separate the circuit. Because the rich/lean knob is probably not a potentiometer it is a variable resistor. The analog-digital converter is the real potentiometer. The computer sends out a steady 5 volt, you turn the knob(variable resistor) to control the resistance to change voltage output, the analog-digital converter translate the output voltage to digital values, then the computer does things(enrich/lean out) based on the digital value. The voltage inside the rich/lean control wire is probably 4.5 to 5 volts. If the operating voltage of the solenoid is 12 volts it will not be properly powered. If the solenoid has much resistance to it, it will offset the reading of the analog-digital converter, ie, the knob is turned to 30% rich, but the computer reads something else. If the resistance is high in the solenoid the computer might even default back to 0%.

Good for her!

VG30DETT ie Z32 have a piston pin bore of 22mm (the L rods must be rebored to be able to accept the pin) VG30E & VG30ET ie Z31 have a pin bore of 21mm (same as L series) I don't know how much compression you will get with VG30ET pistons because they are dished, compared to VG30E piston that has only 1cc in valve relief. My hypothetical setup(turbo stroker) is LD28 stroke, 240Z crank, P90 head and 1mm overbore(87mm), VG30E pistons and that only give me 8.006:1 CR. With a dished VG30ET piston you might want to use N42 head, but it still won't be a high compression setup, more like a turbo setup (8.5:1 or so)

Yeah my thought exactly....the tree branches swing around after getting hit = car hit the tree.

Stock AFM? IIRC the stock AFM max out at 4000RPM or so, from that point on the ecu runs on a predetermined fuel map. With intake upgrade that allows more air, the predetermined fuel map cannot match the extra air....so it runs lean. EDIT to add : I noticed you are running a L20et. My comment above refers to L28et with flap door style AFM. Does your L20et run with a old style AFM or a Z31 style MAF?

Excellent idea, I do not use SDS now but I've read your post closely. I think it should work but that depend on how stable the "switch on" circuit is. If the switch is not debounced, it might do something funny to the ECU when it is turned on. I would also design my circuit to make sure the NOS cannot be turned on unless the enrichment circuit is on, ie both on, both off, but never one on one off. Is the NOS switch powered by electricity too? How many volts?

How do you pronounce it?