TheNeedForZ

Hardware tuning is important, it always has been. Once the engine combo that determines the basic nature of the engine is decided, fine jetting(like responding to weather, altitude) will bring out the last drop of horsepower. On a car that is daily driven, matching fuel and oxygen(which EFI is good at) is more important since mileage is a concern.

According to "how to modify..." and "how to rebuild..." books, L28 blocks are not siamesed at first, then become siamesed, then come F54 that are slotted. Remove the freeze plugs and peep into the engine block, that will give visual confirmation about the webs between cylinders.

I haven't seen it

If you marked both the crank and flywheel when they came apart then you have the information. Theoretically you can couple two flywheels together and balance them. That'll give you two equally unbalanced flywheels. However if you mention this method to your machine shop they'll just hate the idea. They don't have a perfectly balanced, correct size spindle to rotate the couple with, they don't have perfectly balanced, correct size fasteners to couple the flywheels. It is just easier to give them the crank/rods etc. I am going to balance the whole thing in my L28ET because I use a diesel crank.

The dizzy rotates counter-clockwise. If you put the dizzy cap on, the #1 of dizzy is usually marked, probably a vertical line in our case. Get your own. Why would you mess with a car without the manual?

The shop asks you to bring the internals to them so they know how much material to remove from the flywheel. They are not going to balance your internals. You bring home the very same crank/rods that you gave them. You can't balance a flywheel without the rest of rotating assembly unless the rotating assembly is internally balanced. THEORETICALLY, without taking the engine apart, you can balance a new flywheel using the original flywheel as a reference(make the new and old equally off balance). BUT you must know the original mounting position of the old flywheel relative to crank or it's useless.

yeah nice link, I sent them to my friends.

Link leads to a accounting/business solution site.

Which pontiac spring?

I suppose stock bolts are good for the street...There is a race mod mentioned in "how to modify..." book that uses 3/8 chevy bolts(no undercut) and modified stock rods. That's just for race cars. I'd definitely do that mod if I can find a machine shop good enough to perform the specifics. Usually when a rod bolt fails, the rod also fails and will poke a hole in the engine block. The crank journal is also scored and becomes unusable. One bad rod is enough to kill everything...That's why I will do the chevy bolt mod if I can.

Here's my three cents about the bogging problem : The problem you are experiencing may be related to air resistance counteracting with wheel torque since you do no have bog at 3000rpm in lower gears. Assuming that when you reach 3000rpm in 5th gear, you are already moving quite fast therefore air resistance is huge. Combine that with the numerically low gear ratio of 5th gear....there is very little NET wheel torque left to accelerate the car anymore. To make things worse, the contour of the Z car roof/hatch is shaped like the top of an airplane wing which creates lift. Lift reduces traction. Here's part of an article that dissects aerodynamics on a Z : "The figure that comes to mind is 120 pounds of lift on the rear of the car, but I don't recall now at what speed that figure is reached, though I believe it was either 60 or 100 mph." If you insist on going that fast, here's what I'd do : change the length of the airhorn/intake path to add some torque at 3000rpm OR Build an air box with a tunnel leading to the front of the radiator, taking advantage of ram air and cold air. This should give you several percent increase in hp compared to sucking hot air in the engine bay. PLUS adding a wing at the read end to create some downforce or add a spoiler on the roof to "spoil" the airflow before lift can be created. Then again...maybe that's nature's way of telling you to stop...Z car is famous for getting "light" at high speed. IIRC somebody said the 5th gear was created for cruising at low rpm on the highway.

Both of you guys are right. The idle and progression circuit is controlled by manifold vacuum; the main circuit is activated by airflow and venturi.

I think the stock 9mm connecting rod bolt is the weakest link. It has undercut radii right under the bolt head, reducing the diameter to nearly 7mm.

It's a tiny piece of a riced up honda stuck between the car's teeth.

Great images, so clear you can almost see fingerprints ! Recommended. Some of the coolest Z car pics ever!

LOL, instantly one of the classic moments here at HZ.

Love those extreme machines. Throttle on and off = complete opposite personalities.

Save it on your hard drive and use Windows media player. That's what I did.

Great vid, that sort of stuff is exactly the thing for a discouraged I6 guy.

Why not get a weld shop to weld the aluminum back?

I have a later L28ET with P90 head and CAS in the dizzy. My block says L28 and then seven digits, no "ET". I don't think "ET" was ever stamped on the engine block.

haha, BRAAP, I think 240Z Turbo is just playing devil's advocate so in the process of defending your own work, you spill more speed secrets. An explosion created at the center of a spherical vessel eh? Now that you spill your secrets, you might feel better to know that many years later, a group of freedom fighters will use your very same idea to defeat a mighty spaceship that is completely spherical in shape.

link dead

No worry about paint getting scratched, but the owner has to hand rub oil into the wood, once every 5 minutes for an hour, once an hour for a day, once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year, once a year for the rest of lifetime.... Ask someone who has refinished a gunstock the old fashioned way and he'll know what I am talking about