TheNeedForZ

I have a chance to get a set of used titanium piston pins(8) and I am contemplating modifying them for my L28ET. The funny thing is, the pins are really short for the engine they were designed for (I think they are for Chevy or Ford?, see spec below) They are 57.15mm long so I dunno if it's ok to run a pin that short in a street vehicle. Stock L series pin 21mm dia. 72.06mm long 4mm wall thickness 120 gram used titanium pin 23.57mm dia. 57.15mm long 5mm wall thickness 77 grams Ti pin after modified to fit L28ET 21mm dia. 57.15mm long 3.715mm wall thickness 70 gram? guesstimated What do you think? If the short pins were used to run a larger bore Chevy or Ford, it is going to be ok to use them in a smaller bore Datsun L(gonna use 87mm)? My plan is to sand off the casidium coating, rough turn them on my home lathe and take the pins to a precision machine shop to turned to correct size. Then I'll have them coated again with either the original casidium coating or nitriding. Thanks in advance for well informed inputs.

Haha, that's funny.

l28et, thats a great pic!

This is the seafoam instruction given by its website : "With engine warm, slowly pour 1/3 to 1/2 pint through carburetor or throttle body throat. (If vehicle is port injected slowly pour SEA FOAM through direct manifold vacuum line that will feed all cylinders, possible sources are P.C.V. valve or brake booster line.) This will pull SEA FOAM down on top of the pistons and to the back of the intake valves to dissolve carbon. Turn ignition off. Restart engine after 5 minutes. If severe carbon build up is apparent, use more Sea Foam as previously directed. Make sure exhaust is well ventilated when using Sea Foam in these various ways as fumes will be extreme for a short time. " I've never used seafoam but from reading the instruction, I think the correct use is to let the engine suck in seafoam and then turn off ignition to let it soak for 5 minutes. My guess is that with you running the engine for 10 minutes when it is full of seafoam, the engine has ran in a condition that is very very rich. I would check the oxygen sensor and plugs to see if it got dirty from the rich condition.

I know the 3.0L stroker people can use VG30 pistons(87mm, from Z31 or Maxima) with L24 rods and LD28 crank...but you are going to use L24 crank... If you like to rev your engine, make sure your L24 crank is the one with 8 counterweights, some early 240Z have 6(or 7?, can't find the information) counterweights instead of 8. Sorry can't help much.

Yeah we just don't have too many Z up here. All the good ones are asking 12000$ and all the bad ones are already taken...lol.

Crank 50$ + shipping 30$ = 80$ complete head 100$ + shipping 40$ = 140$ main and rod bearings 80$? (not sure, I never trashed my engine) = 300$ for rebuild, plus labour. That's eBay price, if you can pull stuff out of the wreck yard (like complete N42 head, crankshaft) then it is cheaper, and you save shipping. The most optimistic situation is that your crank is fine, local wreck yard N42 + bearings = around 150$, plus labour.

WHAT WERE YOU THINKING?!?! Tear down the engine, if the crank journals are toast, then you can still get a L28 crank for 50$ on eBay then get all new bearings. Then you can find another complete head(unless you can find L28 spec new rockers and cam) Remember to blow out every chip in the oil passages in the block if you decide to rebuild on it. If you decide you want new L28 engine, try craigslist : http://www.craigslist.org/cgi-bin/search?areaID=1&subAreaID=&query=datsun&catAbbreviation=sss&s=100 L28 crankshaft on eBay : http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/76-77-78-Datsun-280Z-Crankshaft_W0QQitemZ8039221363QQcategoryZ33616QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I almost bought a set of used Arizona Z Car aluminum pulley set on eBay yesterday. Just when I was going to place my bid, I remembered that any engine should run with a damper and I don't think the aluminum crank pulley from AZ has any damping function. The stock crank pulley sure is heavy with a layer of silicone/rubber between the two grooves that are glued together. I suppose the stock crank pulley doubles as a damper. So why do people use aluminum pulley without damper? Or is there a way to attach aftermarket damper on the AZ crank pulley? I know this is non-tech forum and I posted a L6 question, but I really want to extend the question to all engines...when the owners replaced stock damper/crank pulley with a lightweight one, how do they deal with the damper problem? Thanks for your advice. BTW, the AZ pulley page for reference http://www.arizonazcar.com/pulley.html

Good work. Nice to see a Z pic that's larger.

I found the ad : http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1971-240Z-Rolling-Shell-Good-For-Race-Car-or-Parts_W0QQitemZ4559890760QQcategoryZ42611QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Looks like a series one(vented hatch, no emblem behind the quarter window), with mix/match fender and hood. Someone in that area should check it out up close.

This concerns my L28ET engine that I bought several months ago. When I tore it apart and removed the con rod/piston assemblies, the rods binds in the pistons. They will move if I use some force, just not freely. Squirting some lubricant into the oil holes will help a little bit but they are still not free to move. I have a set of L26 rods/pistons assemblies that I bought by mistake(the seller thought they were L24 assemblies) The L26 rods rocks freely in their pistons. So...what could have happened to my L28ET? I've tore the engine apart, everything looks normal except the binding rods in the pisons. Any ideas?

Pic links dead

Shitty Chevron gas? I thought they have one of the best gas?!

Site looks normal to me??

link is dead

Saw it in the magazine yesterday. V-12 !!! Is the new cockpit going to be as cramped as the old one?

There is nothing that hasn't been said about EFI vs carb. I want to run BOTH, carb to benefit from good atomization, and EFI to fill the lag between transitions, and to spray as the "accelerator pump" and to help cold start.

Like Lewis said, if the wheel is made into an alternator that is working ALL THE TIME, then the setup is actually doing negative work. What the gas-electric car does is to couple the rotating part of the car with a generator when braking or when going downhill. The generator requires torque to be turned so it helps you brake while converting some motion energy back into electricity. If you make your wheels into alternators, you should break the circuit when you are accelrating/driving, but close the alternator circuit when you are braking or going downhill. That would work properly. However to make the conversion more efficient, you should have something that spins faster coupled with a generator, like flywheel instead of the wheel.

When you convert whatever spinning motion into whatever form of energy, the spinning energy is lost. In a purely electrical car, your concept will make the battery last longer but it will not always stay fully charged. Toyota Prius has no problem with idling at all, it simply shuts off when you are not moving. It recharges energy during braking and when going downhill.

People put Z31 disk in their L28et dizzy because they upgrade to Z31T ECU or a similar ECU that is reprogrammed. The upgraded ECU requires Z31 disk (which has one wider slot at TDC) to run. The real upgrade is the ECU; The Z31 disk is just a requirement to the upgrade. Can you run a Z31 disk with L28ET ECU? I too am searching for that answer. If you successfully ran your L28ET with a Z31 dizzy disk, please let me know. Thanks

I thought V-engines need to balance WITH bobweights so the total rotating inertia increases? AFAIK, crankshaft in an inline engine are balanced without adding bobweight.

I've never heard of Y70 head...what is it out of and why is it "useless"?

Bring a magnet so there is no surprise. I remember the "clean shell" I bought. Once it hit the media-blast shop, BAM, bondo city!

David Vizard's books like iskone said, so you know they are recommended by more than two people.