TheNeedForZ

No pics. But I'll try those methods. Will go ahead and get the SS lines.

Forget about the above link, but read them if you are interested. I might have found what you are looking for : There is a HTML file called "Z cheat sheet" or something, I forgot where I got this originally but I suggest you go find it. Here is the section about brake upgrade installation : It says the 15/16 installation is a "direct replacement" so prolly a bolt on. Toyota Upgrade From 240Dave s Page ***SPECIAL NOTE**** There are currently two new brake bleeding products available for do-it-yourselfers. They are bleed screws with check valves installed to allow brake bleeding without worrying about air entering the system when you lift the brake pedal. Russell's Speed Bleeders are one, and Earl's Solo-Bleeders are the other. You can find Russell Speed Bleeders in catalogs such as Summit, and Earl's can be found anywhere that sells Earl's merchandise. You can contact Earl's directly to find a vendor in your area. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Option #1 Toyota 4x4 caliper and stock 240-280Z rotor [Parts List] [Procedure] Introduction This upgrade improves the braking of the stock 240-280Z by increasing the clamping force of the front brakes with the use of Toyota 4 piston calipers from a Toyota 4x4 pickup and the stock solid 240-280 rotors. These calipers will bolt directly to the Z strut, with no modifications. The reason for this, is that these calipers are made by Sumitomo, a brake component manufacturer, who manufactured brake components for Nissan/Datsun and Toyota. This really works out great for us Z fanatics, since they used the same bolt pattern quite a bit, which enables us to do this swap. By using the larger front calipers, your brake torque for the front wheels is increased. Brake torque is what makes your car stop, the larger the amount of torque the quicker you can stop. There are two ways to increase brake torque. First, you can increase the clamping ability of the calipers, and secondly to increase the rotor diameter. Of course, if you do both modifications at the same time, you will substantially increase brake torque. If you take a look at any after market brakes, they are always larger in diameter than their stock counterparts for this very reason. This particular upgrade, while effective, does not address the rotor warpage issue, associated with excess heat. You can check out Option #2 if you are interested in that setup. Parts List 1. (2) Calipers from a '79-'84 Toyota 4x4 pickup. They should be stamped 'S12' on the side. (new or rebuilt) 2. (1) Get a set of semi metallic pads. There are many brands, I prefer Porterfields. 3. (1) 280ZX 15/16" master cylinder (new or rebuilt) 4. (1) DOT 5 Brake fluid. Not required, but recommended: 1. Stainless braided brake lines and new hard lines. 2. New rotors, possibly cross drilled if available/desired (I wouldn't use cross-drilled, but that's your choice). 3. Proportioning valve (280ZX unit works well) Procedure Original Equipment Removal 1) Remove your wheels (obviously), and safely jack up the car. 2) Disconnect the brake lines from the calipers. 3) Remove your old caliper and pad assemblies. 4) Remove the front rotors and bearings. Now is the time to check your rotor and bearing condition. If anything is questionable, take it to a shop and have it machined within spec, or spend a little cash and buy new parts. Although not required, I highly suggest a new set of rotors, since there is no point in doing this upgrade with old worn out rotors. 5) Remove the backing plate. This is an optional step, since the backing plate can be retained by cutting excess metal to provide clearance for the new 4 piston calipers. However, these plates were known to retain moisture on stock Z cars, and I suggest removing them entirely. While this will create a dustier condition, the moisture problem will no longer be an issue. 6) Remove the master cylinder. Disconnect all brake lines at the master cylinder, and remove it. You can retain the stock 240-280 brake booster. Be careful, as brake fluid is highly corrosive, and any spills should be cleaned up immediately. It is a good idea to keep some soapy water and a rag handy if you are at all concerned about your paint. New Equipment Installation 1) Install new 15/16" 280ZX master cylinder. This is a direct replacement for the 240-280 style. Reconnect all previously disconnected brake lines. Be careful to not over tighten, you might strip threads. 2) Install the new rotor and/or bearings/seals. Installation is reverse of removal. Use new cotter keys and nuts as well, these are very cheap, but necessary. 3) Install new brake lines. If you are retaining your old lines, then skip this step. Although, that would be a mistake in my opinion. I would also install the proportioning valve at this time. Although not deemed necessary, I feel the brake upgrade is incomplete without it. The reasoning for this, is that the new 4 piston calipers have a much greater clamping force. So, the brake system becomes unfairly biased towards the front. The proportioning valve alleviates some of this phenomenon. 4) Install new 4 piston calipers. Installation is the reverse of the stock 240Z caliper removal. These are a direct replacement, and require no special mounting. Make sure to have the brake bleed screw towards the top. You can install it the other way, but it will not function correctly. Bleed screw orientation is how you can tell the difference between the right and left calipers. 5) Re-connect all brake lines. Installation is once again, reverse of removal. Some minor bending of the hard brake lines is necessary to get them to fit correctly. Be careful not to kink any lines, and make sure that all lines are free of obstruction or interference. 6) Install new brake pads. 7) Bleed the brakes. Do this in whatever method you prefer, but be aware that most brake problems can be associated with improper bleeding. If you are in question, just take it to a local shop, and have them power bleed the brakes. This isn't expensive, and works far better than any backyard job.

So "bone stock" = "stone" now? V8? no...vintage all the way, keep it stoned

Long story short...my brake hardlines were cut instead of disassembled at the flare nuts. The shop said the nuts were rusted solid, flare nut wrenches will not work. They had to cut it to remove it. So is there a remedy for rusted, stuck flare nuts? The shop that removed the lines weren't a professional brake shop(The shop cut the lines because I told them to remove the lines ASAP and I will have the lines replaced with new ones later. I just didn't expect the old lines to be cut) Now I have brake line "stubs" at every old connection. Will a professional brake shop have the right tool to remove the tight flare nuts? How do I save the situation? My original intention was to expose the area under the lines so the sandblast guys can get access. I wanted to keep the old lines for mock up when new lines are getting bent. There was even a chance that I'll clean up the old lines, paint them with rust bullet and re-use them. It's all too late. All hard lines were cut, EVERY SINGLE ONE.

Dunno if these helps at all but they are related I searched with "15/16 master cylinder", about 3 pages of threads came up, you could search in those. If you have found the guide, please let me know. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=93226&highlight=15%2F16+master+cylinder http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=90551&highlight=15%2F16+master+cylinder http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=89967&highlight=15%2F16+master+cylinder http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=70314

I saw some pipes that looks like exhaust headers under the rear hatch glass, does the car have a RR drive train? There' are louvers and air scoop on the hood though.... If the car is RR or MR then it is really interesting....

Can't say the ground is undisturbed, look at the giant branch(with green needles), broken branches(no needles), and pine cones under the impact tree(the one with door wrapped around). Those stuff came from above. Look at other area of the scene, none has this much broken branch or cones, not to mention a large broken branch with green needles on it. The only part of the car capable of digging a gouge is the front section(the rear end is trailing) If you look at pic 13 you'll see the broken frame is bent from wrapping the tree so there's no sharp edge to dig with. The car could really have been "airborne" or at least has lower g force because the road is built higher than the rest of the terrain(to drain rain from the road), when the vehicle leave the road with speed and enters the forest it should have reduced force acting on the ground. From the looks of it the soil looks pretty dense and dry too, not the muddy type that can change shape easily. The scene is more real when you find a CD that seperated from its case. CD case : lower right corner of pic13(and others) with booklet somewhat out of the transparent case CD disk : pic 11, lower left There is also a piece of glass : pic 3, lower left C'mon, it's REAL!

I doubt the "practice scene" theory. I can only imagine medical teams excercise extraction of wounded from a vehicle. They would use tools to cut the door frame and practice getting people out of a car, and that's all they need to practice with a crashed car. To wrap a door around a tree or put an engine block on the ground at the practice site should not contribute to medical emergency response training. One might say this is a test site for crash forensics where they re-enact a crash at the original site using pieces found at the original crash. If this is true then why would there be an ambulance? Could it be a joint training between medical response team and the forensics team? Question is do they have the need to. Forensics investigation is not an emergency response team, they don't need to be present with the medics, so there isn't a need for these two to train together. I am no crash forensics, I can't tell if this scene is real or not. If someone say this scene is real, I wouldn't doubt it because a friend of mine crashed in his BMW and the scene is bizzare. His BMW broke into not two pieces but three pieces. Because it is so rare that a car will break into 3 pieces in a crash, BMW actually sent engineers to investigate the crash.

Look at post #8 The result is that ITB system increases torque and throttle response.

You're right about that. Besides safety issues, my problem with working under the car is that everything is "up" and I had to fight with gravity and inhaling mysterious dust falling from the car. I saw off a rusty bumper shock from lying under the car just recently, it was difficult to do.

I remember this skit, rofl funny crazy weekend in jaimaica lol

Don't know if you have access to a machineshop or not, so I assume you don't. If you like carbs, the best thing you can do now is to give the SUs a tune up....add a K&N filter...basic bolt on stuff. BTW The stock connecting rods on the 240Z were used to build 3.1L stroker, don't throw those away.

I think it is pretty cool. I am kinda scared to work under the car because I had to work on my car alone mostly. I'll probably pick one up if it isn't pricey.

Need more info, like what did the engine actually do. Did it crank but not start, or it did not crank at all? Was there fuel in the fuel lines? Was there the right fuel pressure? injectors all on the right cylinders?

So what did the guy do wrong there? I only saw the guy close the breech and the gun fired as it closes?

Zero, what kind of satin paint is it? I prefer satin like that to glossy paint. Does the satin paint come in other colors? Thanks

You can't see any blood or deadbodies. Must be close to 10% of speed of light considering the dead bodies were vaporized.

You mean "the matrix"

So are many of us...heheh 280Z has thicker sheetmetal so you can swap a V8 in there without serious chassis stiffening. 3K~5K....try looking into doing a LS1 swap. A lot of good info can be accessed to through the search function. Also buy a copy of THE bible : The Datsun V8 swap manual from this site http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Datsun_Z_V-8.html

Nice

Congrats, Egmar. You beat the Porche!!!

glad to hear it. So it's the different bleed method used by the shop that corrected your brake problem? Did you replace anything to fix the problem with the car veering to one side when using brake? My 280Z did that(pull to one side under braking) before I stripped it so I might have to deal with that sometime later on.

So my friend(actually my sister's fiancee), came into the room and said "Can I use your computer? I want to show you something" Then he uses my computer, did some searching and downloaded a file called GoogleEarth.exe Then he installed and ran it. There was a earth globe showing on the screen.... so what there's a globe on my computer screen? He moves the globe around and zooms in, zooms in, and zooms in, AND ZOOMS IN SOME MORE, until we can see an air base(Edwards) with clear image of fighter planes, B-1 bombers, stealth fighters and f-117(number??Blackbird). Then he finds a naval base and showed me submarines, destroyers and carriers. I liked the clear image but I am no military buff so I wasn't that impressed. Now here comes the shocker : He moves it around and zoomed in on an area; It looked like an civilian residential area. What about it? He said " This is where you guys live, there are no cars on the driveway, so when they took the satellite image, you haven't begun with your restoration project yet" !!!!!!!! I looked around and everything checked out correct, the cul-de-sac that our house was in, the post office nearby, the grocery store. The streets nearby. I was like "THIS IS SO F***ING AMAZING" Our house was built in 2000, I started my Z car project in August 2004 so the image was taken sometime between that. Resolution is low in some areas like Russia, China, Area 51, and wilderness etc. but I'd say the default resolution is 3 meter x 3 meter(you can tell between a car and a bus) You can download them for free here(be sure to download the free version, you have to pay to use the more advanced versions) http://public.planetmirror.com/pub/googleearth/ or do a search on "GoogleEarth.exe" Set your screen resolution to 1024x768 to run it. When the image gets tilted(as in you no longer look stright down) hit the "reset tilt" button right next to directional pad. Add "boarder" layer to locate stuff easier. I don't know if this stuff is new, you may already know this but I was shown only today. I got the feeling that earth is really small when you can rotate and zoom it between your palms. HAVE FUN!

Is it dirty inside the threads? Maybe you could clean it or chase it with a tap.