TheNeedForZ

Battle Pope, Wow thanks, I don't know the world is actually grey, I thought it's going to be candy clouds and free gasoline. Sarcasm aside, to say there are no lawsuit-happy folks out there will be contrary to truth. But what you mentioned is somewhat irrelevant. Sure, people can sue if their 7-year old gets a flying boat in the brain. Can people sue if the kid pulled the e-brake on the car and it slide down the hill? Can people sue if a baby fell from a chair? Can people sue if a kid is shot dead with a pump daisy? Can people sue if their kid got injured from playing fireworks? They all can sue, it's their mentality to blame manufacturers for their own misuses. This mentality has nothing to do with the RC boat. If there is a need to warn anybody about the lawsuit-happy mentality, then please, WARN EVERY SINGLE ONE about pretty much EVERYTHING. People nowadays will sue the closest company in sight if they choke on their own phlegm. I just choose not to see the world from these people's view, I chose to be optimistic about things.

I read the link and it is a very neat idea, 225 HP and 224lb-ft from a 1.6 liter engine(with electrical supercharger) is pretty decent. It does the varying with just 4 degree of tilting...probably because the engine has such small chambers (1.6L 5-cylinder) I also realize that variable valve timing alters the dynamic compression ratio. Just wanted to know if there's a low tech way to do it. Thanks for the link by the way.

Who says this thing is for a 7 year-old? I said "toy" because it is modelled after a real boat so I only said "toy" to distinguish it from the real boat.

I was thinking there could be a device that raise the compression on a turbo car when the boost is not on. Then I think "forget it, it's only going to be too complicated" Then how about variable compression ratio for a car that can switch between high compression/high octane weekend car and mild compression/87 octane daily driver? The compression raising device itself...I was thinking maybe a dead plug like a spark plug that is flush with internal combustion chamber surface when compression is in the "high", then the plug can be backed out to lower compression. The plug and hole edge in the chamber will be smooth of course. Comments?

Hi, I am always interested in independent throttle bodies and have to choose between triple weber 40 DCOM(like dcoe except using adjustable diaphram accelerator pump) and programmable EFI with ITB. I know the problem with triple carbs that people always talk about, been reading everything related yesterday. I also know that ultimately, EFI gets better of everything, drivability, power and milege etc, but is there any gremlin in the EFI system? like "one day it decided not to work". What do I need to do a complete ITB and EFI setup? How much would that cost me compared to webers? Right now my L28 is stock, but might add head work and raise compression. Engine spec is prolly irrelevant since you setup either fuel system to fit the engine. I do not have experience with programming a ECU, but can learn. Thanks

Is it possible to take the injector out of the runner, run the engine and see if it sprays fuel? You don't really have a problem, me thinks.

very cool, if this thing(the RC toy) goes commerical it would have good potential.

When I was cleaning my Q-jet, I found out that gasoline won't even touch some of the gunk. So I looked at a can of commercial "carb cleaners" and one of the main ingredients is "methanol". I happened to have a gallon of methanol (or called "methyl hydrate"). Soaked the parts in methanol and within seconds I see the dark brown gunk start to diffuse. The part is very clean after that, mind you the gunk on the carb was so thick you can carve pictures on it with a nail. methanol is also used as paint stripper, so if you want to use it as a general parts washer then don't use it on painted parts. It is particularly effective on removing fuel-derived gunk and varnish but will not remove grease/oil/wax AT ALL. Methanol is the stuff they put in fake wine, it can cause blindness if taken internally. Methanol is water soluable and combustable. Be careful with that.

lol, understood, thanks.

Hi, you won't believe the trouble I had with searching...30 minutes and not a straight answer. Here goes : A guy is selling his 1984 na 300ZX for 400$cdn. It has 5-speed, power brake, power steering and power windews(my guess is this will not be useful). I am wondering what can I get for my S30Z? Is the 5-speed a Datsun factory part or is it Borg Warner T-5? Is it worth getting? What about brake parts? what can I salvage from it? I looked at some 300ZX brake swap threads, but didn't really help. Thanks

Ed, can you send me a copy of the "how-to? I have a stock 76 280Z, and I am also pondering 3-webers. Thanks

I tried to play the teaser but can't play...tried windows media player and quicktime, didn't work.

Thanks!

This is the reply from Smoothline after I asked about their price. Thanks for your inquiry! We appreciate your interest in our products. Smooth Line Composite body panels are exact reproductions of original steel panels. Thousands of our panels are in use today. Our panels will make your Z look new again. Forget about rust or dents forever! Our standard body panels weigh approximately 50% of the metal panels. This will help make your car faster and handle better. 1970 -78 Datsun Z 10601 Fr Fender--Dr $450.00 Retail $250.00 Factory Direct 10602 Fr Fender--P $450.00 Retail $250.00 Factory Direct 10603 R Quarter--Dr $225.00 Retail $125.00 Factory Direct 10604 R Quarter--P $225.00 Retail $125.00 Factory Direct Our quarter panels bond on. They cover from the door jam back to the seam at the tail light. They also extend from the top of the fender to the bottom edge. Will not fit 2+2 models. 10605 Rocker -- Dr $95.00 Retail $65.00 Factory Direct 10606 Rocker -- P $95.00 Retail $65.00 Factory Direct 10607 Fr Air Dam 70 -74 240/260 $180.00 Retail $125.00 Factory Direct 10608 Fr Air Dam 70 -74 260/280 $180.00 Retail $125.00 Factory Direct 10609 Rear Spoiler 5 1/4" High $180.00 Retail $125.00 Factory Direct 10610 Hood 240/260 $475.00 Retail $250.00 Factory Direct 10611 Hood 280 w / openings $475.00 Retail $250.00 Factory Direct Our hoods are stock replacement complete with inner panel. Bolt on installation same as original. Threaded metal inserts are molded in. Uses stock hinges and latches. 10612 Headlight Case--Dr $120.00 Retail $110.00 Factory Direct 10613 Headlight Case--P $120.00 Retail $110.00 Factory Direct 10614 Fr Apron w / Prk. Ltg. Pnls. 240/260 $250.00 Retail $195.00 Factory Direct 10615 Fr Apron w / Prk. Ltg. Pnls. 260/280 $250.00 Retail $195.00 Factory Direct Our front apron is a one piece panel that replaces the original three steel panels. It looks original and bolts on. It provides easier installation and is a stronger replacement. All of Smooth Line Body Panels are made from a high quality fiberglass composite that are completely block sanded, primed with an urethane primer, glazed, block wet sanded, and primed again. This primer does not require any sealers and is compatible with all top coats. Also, included at no extra cost, is heavy duty packaging for world wide shipping. We are absolutely convinced that we have the best product of its kind available anywhere and at competitive prices. If you are looking for the best restoration body panels for import sport cars available today -- look no further. For a limited time, your price would be the Factory Direct Price. For the best savings on quality body panels for your Z, now is the time to order. We accept all major credit cards. To order, give us a call toll free 1- 877-368-4533. (724-274-6002 outside US.) All of Smooth Line products are very high quality and are fully guaranteed. All of Smooth Line Body Panels are custom made to order. Manufacturing and delivery time is approx. 6-8 weeks. If you have any other questions, please feel free to E-mail or phone. I'm looking forward to hearing from you. Thanks again!

I was watching Discovery channel some long time ago. The program mentioned a guy who invented a carburetor decades ago that's good for 200mpg. He actually got a patent and is said to have witnesses that can testify to the effectiveness of the carb. The program didn't introduce the carb or the inventor, just mentioned them. I tried to search the patent database but the patent is too old and wasn't listed for searching at all. Weeks ago I was doing my book shopping on Amazon.com and I ran into a few books with this particular carburetor as their subjects, but the books are all out of print and there are no cover pictures available. Has anyone heard about the mythical 200mpg carb and know how the thing operates. I know the real thing probably isn't as practical as it sounds but I still want to find out. Thanks

The only thing I know about them is that most workshops refuse to grind/polish Mg alloys. Mg particles accumulate on the grinding/buffing disk. Under the right circumstance the disk can explode.

I went to smoothline website and it seems they are re-doing their site format ,so you'll only see their hardtops now. The section with other parts is not completed yet.

I have not disassembled my engine before so I dunno if there is enough metal/space to do this....can you drill and tap with a slightly larger thread?

aftermarket STEEL fenders do not line up properly. But some good quality fiberglass parts are out there that is guaranteed to fit. http://www.smoothline.com/ is such a fiberglass parts manufacturer. Nissan OEM is great, but very expensive. The third way is to visit wreckyards for good fenders. I did find a decent one off a 240z, needs minor work tho.

Can Rust Bullet (again, a rust proofing paint like POR15) be used to seal the bondo? The process now becomes : 1. paint rust bullet on bare metal(both sides) 2. apply body filler 3. after shaping and curing, apply rust bullet to completely cover bondo area. should this be able to seal bondo?

Congrats, took her for a drive?

He said no bumper and grill. There will be hood.

Hi, welcome to the forum. Perhaps you should put this thread in the non-tech forum...anyhoo. I am from Richmond. MaTTSuN, Pathogen, pdinnel are all in the area. Drax240z is on the island. I know a few local Z(1st gen Z) owners but don't know them that well.

Actually I'll be(they'll be) painting the car everywhere.

Wow I have not assembled an engine before, I don't know it's this finicky. I suppose I'll tread very lightly when/if I build one.