SUNNY Z

I thought I'd report an update. Drove it 3 hrs on interstate a couple weeks ago, and averaged 24, after playing around once i got to my destination. This was driving 80 as well. Would probably do 26 ish if i babied it.

any idea what a pickup bed trailer would weigh? I'm guessing it would be in that 4-700# range. Not much. I'm planning on making a bolt-in hitch that attaches to where the rear bumper shocks used to be..... we'll see how it works.

QFT. I should have stated that I don't think the cost/ hp is there for a rocker upgrade. IMO. We're hitting the 1/4 for sure the weekend of the 15th. It will be well documented. Hope i don't get kicked out too early lol The car was tuned on the street when i put it together a year ago. The only thing added for this session was the nitrous kit. Negatory ghost rider.

Well?

?? I'm on stock rockers. If i were going to do anything, it would be the trunion upgrade. I've seen lots of broken yella terras. Its all in the drivetrain section. Get to reading !

Haha. Thanks! It makes for a fun ride.

I would love to take that off your hands... But unfortunately, I'm half way across the US.

Oh boy. Stock 2001 LS1 bottom end (5.7L) 62CC AFR 205's ARP Head Bolts TEA Dual gold valve springs 7.400 CM pushrods LS7 Lifters LS6 Oil pump LS2 Timing Chain Vengeance VRX4 Cam - 228/230 .588/.592 on a 112 LSA FAST 90 Intake Nick Williams 90mm TB Nitrous Express Plate Window switch was 3000- 6500 on those pulls. probably play with it and move it up to around 3500 or higher. depends on traction. No FPS switch. WOT switch on back of pedal, and also a switch on the clutch pedal (so when the clutch is engaged, it won't spray)

Maybe it has something to do with the time / space continuum over here in the states.............

Single walbro 255 external pump, corvette regulator, -6 line to the rail. 42# SVO green top injectors. AFRs hold 12.0 except at the very beginning there is a slight lean spike (to be expected). No progressive. Its on a window switch and a WOT switch Still on the same tires, The other night was a motor pass, so yes it dead hooked. Eh, they vary track to track and night to night. I think i might raise an eyebrow if it goes low 10s though..... any bets on when I'll get booted? hahah Nope! Car performed great!

Car performed really well. Baseline of 431 /412 ended up 442 / 420 on 150 jets it made 576 / 616 Its pretty violent when it hits... almost scary lol. All of the motor pulls Nitrous pulls

Do it right and use a dial indicator.

Its a fabricated aluminum tank with a -10 pickup. 1/2" is plenty. Have you looked at any logs to see that you're not losing spark or anything like that?

Was a little late getting to the track tonight (7:30 vs 5 pm start). Someone oiled the track right as i got in line, so that took 1.5 hours to fix..... Finally get to make one pass. Leave off the 2 step at 3500, car bogs its ass off (dead hook), and goes 1.74 60', up to a 7.36 @ 98. Hot lapped back to the staging lanes, and then the rain started. And of course, I didn't get video. I had to start the gopro in a hurry, and ended up on a timed picture. OH WELL. GF got a video from the stands, but missed the burnout. I cant get back soon enough! That being said, i now have 1400 miles, and 1 track pass on the rear end setup, no issues.

My car is ripping the frame rails by the transmission mount .... put it on the list!

You are correct. I plan on beefing the area up as soon as possible.

Dave, I can't give a solid review just yet. I used an off brand glue that I had already. It broke down once the surfaces got hot, and I haven't had a chance to re- glue anything. I re-did the headliner with 3M glue (recommended) but it separated again. I think I'll have to either flip the pieces, or cut new ones. For some reason the first round of residue is keeping the good stuff from adhering. I havent done the floors yet, but I plan on doing a double layer through all of it. I will say that it was cooler (just having the piece on the roof - even though it wasn't stuck well. The real benefit will be had once i can do the firewall, floors, and deck area. I like this stuff though. Cuts with scissors, and 40 sqft weighs like 4#. Hopefully be able to tackle this more in-depth soon.

Those are the rear bolts. Still under shear though. I'm going to lock and nut them, with loctite. They're grade 10.9, so plenty strong. I'll get you that info a little later.

Well I'm still waiting on a fitting that was SUPPOSED to have shipped friday. So, we'll see on the dyno. Planning on for sure going to the track friday night though. I had a near near death experience this last weekend, and is some good food for thought for you guys running stock fuel rails. The quick connect that goes onto the rail, and converts to an AN fitting came off in the middle of a pull, and sprayed gas EVERYWHERE in my engine bay. Luckily, it didn't catch fire. Nothing wrong with it other than it has been taken off maybe 6-7 times. If you have one of these, NEVER take it off the rail, instead, decouple the threads. I bought some Holley fuel rails (really nice, and only $130. I did have to re-bend two of my hard lines for the N2O however. Here tis! Safety AND bling. Always a winner in my book.

I was seeing 50A on my taurus fan when it was kicking on. I had to run two 30A fuses in parallel, with 10ga wire to compensate. Just an FYI, it DOES suck some juice, but I've driven my car in 100+ degree heat, and DRIVEN it, not just putted around. I do have the radiator and fan well sealed, but lack any front end mods to channel air.

Is the surge tank being sucked dry? Seems like an awefully complicated fuel system. I have a single external walbro 255, -6 in/out, corvette regulator right by the tank, and a single -6 feed line going to the rail. Walbro's are pusher pumps and not pullers, so if your pump is higher than the outlet of the surge tank, it might be cavitating. pics of your setup?

Probably closer to 2850, fwiw.

My 280 uses M10x 1.25 x 25 IIRC. Not sure on the length, might be 30.

For sure. Sounds like fun! I'll take video at the dyno, and at the track. I'm getting ancy already!

Yes, these are the back two of the 4 bolts. I imagine that since the diff sits further back, it is acting like a lever on that mount, and putting more torque to the rear bolts.