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HybridZ

SUNNY Z

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Everything posted by SUNNY Z

  1. ON3 turbo's make pretty good power, and seem to be a reliable budget solution. Get back to me when you launch that thing above 400whp on slicks!
  2. They are just parts store spacers right now. I'm having a friend with a waterjet cut me a set with CAD drawings I sent him. I'm sure we could cut a second set if you're interested. These will be just an over-the-stud spacer like is on the car. I have plenty of stud to work with.
  3. 200 / 225. But my setup is not the way it should be. To get the car to this height, I have to preload my rear springs 2". The strut tubes arent the correct length, but they're working. Had to clearance the inner fender and control arms after the fact. Using a 3/8" spacer on the front, and a 1/2" spacer on the rears. Front wheels are 15 x 3.5"
  4. I would say this is true. I mean; more surface area = more cooling capacity. Thats why it helps to turn on the heat when your car is overheating. Will you notice a difference? More than likely, no. I bypass my heater core in the summer to keep all the heat out of the cab that I can. I don't see any issues. My fan might run more, but it could be because its 100*? Haha, just do it.
  5. Well, when its draglites or nothing, I like them. I'll be honest they've grown on me lately, especially with a fat tire on them. The hoosier 11.50 is actually a DOT tire, so thats the section width, with 10" of tread. Same size as a 28x12.50 ET street, or 28x10.50 ET drag. Hoping to get them on today and see how the car acts!
  6. Picked up a full set of draglites locally yesterday. Cleaned them up and test fit. This is the rear with a 1/2" spacer. Clears my Z32 brakes just fine! Had to clearance the inner fender and control arms though. Wheels are Weld draglites. 15x8, with 5.5" backspace. Tires are Quick Time Pro 28 x 11.50 x 15 I might also mention that I had my uprights custom made from TTT to center the wheel in the well, or else this would NOT be possible.
  7. Keith, Just go to an 8.8. I have 4 bolts @ 14mm holding my driveshaft flange on! haha
  8. Thats wierd. Sticky weights? Try using hammer ons and / or static balancing them
  9. . Maybe not this coming weekend but the next. SO busy!
  10. Wait, did you say 20 degrees? Thats enough for like a 500 shot. I only pull 6 for my 150. Even on the safe side, I wouldn't pull that much. No wonder it was such a gutless wonder. I think my TOTAL timing is 28. It feels down on power with 6 pulled.
  11. more info on your setup? Carb or FI? I have a box set up on mine that only pulls the timing when the kit is armed. Best of both worlds. It only costs about $20 to make, but you have to have the car tuned for it. pics? I know these engines hold up to quite a bit of abuse. Local guy pretty much found the limit is 350 on a stock bottom end.
  12. Can't remember which way it is, all i know is its different. This stuff is everywhere, google is your friend.
  13. 6K in just over a year. Diff problems. Too much horsepower, couldn't handle the V8.
  14. I know several 1000+ whp boosted cars that get down through an ls1 intake. Really not an issue.
  15. Forgot your pumps were on the side. In fact, you should probably move them lower (or closer to) the outlet height. Walbro's are a pusher, not a puller style. I've seen people have problems with their pump too high and fuel starvation / burning up pumps. Mine (single) is mounted on the front of the tank, about an inch above the bottom, just in line with the outlet of the tank. I have no issues until i get LOW on fuel.
  16. PM Rebekah'sZ. He did an LS2 from a GTO. To add to your list if you're planning on running F body accessories: crank pully.
  17. You will be MUCH happier with the finished product if you buy a decent welder, or have it done by someone. I personally hate flux core welders as the weld quality doesn't hold a candle to a good MIG. Thats just my opinion though.
  18. That was a clean break! Usually they grenade, and take out the tail housing in the trans with them. You got lucky!
  19. they should fit beside the fuel cell. might be tight.
  20. Its a 90* 4" elbow. Aluminum, not steel also. Silicone is the way to go.
  21. You're making this way too complicated. The shaft, and everything attached to it is aluminum. The yoke / flange is steel. Go with the 1350 U-joints. Even a 1350 front and 1310 rear (biggest that flange allows IIRC). I went with 1350 on both ends as my pinion flange is much larger than an R200
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