Dudeboy

Larry, That is some great work and a good looking Z.

Thanks guys. It came down to Team III (the panasport looking wheel), Complete Custom Wheel and Boze/ZE Forge (Pro Touring). Team III make great wheels especially vintage looking wheels for Cobras, I (me just me) had a problem with the way you order. I can not say anything bad about CCW, great wheels and great service I just wanted to try something little different and a company who also had experience making wheels for Datsun Zs'.

Boze/ZE Forge wheels 17 x 11 for the rear 17 x 9.5 for the front 4.5 inch backspace. The pictures do not do these wheels justice. I can not wait to get tires, brakes and getting the car up and running.

Finally purchase wheels !!! Boze/ZE Forge wheels -The Pro Touring wheels 17 x 11 for the rear 4.5 inch BS, 17 x 9.5 for the front 4.5 BS. Have not decided on brand of tire yet, looking at Vredestein, BFG, Nitto and Sumitomo. The rear size will be 315 /35 -17. The front will be either 245, 255 - 40 -17, need to see were wide front ZG flares measure.

After about three years of searching, to get inexpensive wide wheels you have to convert over to 5 lug GM or Ford bolt pattern, then different brakes and on and on...... ! If you are going to be racing Complete Custom Wheel is your best bet. You can destroy a wheel racing, they will repair or replace for a fee. I think there is sticky at the top that list the different companies to buy wheels from. Remaining 4 lug and going 10 inches or wider with a custom offset is going to cost you at least $2000.00 or more. If you find some quality wheels that fit the criteria please post, because I just spent too much money !!

Give Zak a call or email Boze/ZE forged wheels. I have 17 x11 and 17 x 9.5 Pro touring wheels on the way- should be here by Thursday. I still have 4 -lugs , tokico springs,shocks (no coilovers) specs to fit Arizona z car brakes. I order them just after Xmas $1900.00 plus shipping. CCW have some great wheels and great service, I wanted to try something different.

Pg. 43 Blackdragonauto.com. in the Datsun online catalog Like everyone has stated, installing is a b$#tch, but well worth it. While you are changing the bushings, think about changing your spindle pins, if they are in bad shape.

The Corbeau Clubman is a real tight seat ( I am 6ft. /210 lbs.). I went with the Forza II and have a little bit more wiggle room. Also, I had to modify my seat brackets to lower the seat just a bit. I may have to revisit my seat brackets/rails because I plan on putting the LS1 ECM under the passenger seat.

I have a 1977 280, and in the Nissan 1977 factory manual on page 550, LR is Blue with red stripe, LB is Blue with black stripe. In the 77 manual, LR from the diagram is the connection for the fan switch. Do your Haynes reflect the diagram with the ignition relay to fuse panel to fan switch and fan motor ?

I agree with Derek and riverz !!! I am 46 years young - My wife help me look for the Z I have now as a birthday gift 5-6 years ago to replace the one I sold when my son was born 12 years ago. When I told her I wanted to put a V8 in the Z, and I was doing the research 1st gen SBC or LS1 --I read so much info about vettes and f-body LS1, she stated "Go find you a vette, and see if you like it ". Another little thing about my wife, she wants a 1972 or 1973 Nova with a 572 Big Block and or a 04 Red ZO6 with a mod red int!!! (she knows the difference between a big block and small block) Where I am going here is my wife is special, and women like her are out there, do not waste your time. Your significant other does not have to think like you, or like the same things you do, but at least have a some respect for your car hobby/passion.

I am now in the 21st century, my kids talk me into a new cell phone that takes pictures and some other neat stuff !!!! The flip side, my son set it up to get my e-mail, and a weird thing happen. I received a message from a member here on hybrid Z, asking me about the throttle cable I used (Lokar LS148), I deleted the message on the phone, logged on to hybridz and there is no private message !!!I do not remember who the message was from, but I always reply to private messages, so my apologies for my technical difficulty and not getting back to you. I hope you read this.

I settled on a Summit Harness (made by Painless). I spent about $200.00 for it. If I was to re-wire a car now, I would go with Ron Francis Wiring, the kits are more complete including ground wire kits on some of there complete harness kits.

Kevin, The stock guages will do the job, but the majority have went the Autometer route. I have Autometer Speedo, Tach, Fuel, Volt guage and the stock combo temp/oil guage with a white face. My speedo and tach are electric, not mechanical. I have the Walbro pump from Johns Car-I have not seen any issues posted. If you have a rust free chassis, you should be in good shape. The weak area maybe the r200 and the half-shafts. The guys racing need to chime in here** I have a Autopower street bar just in case. Get the cage required for the type of racing you plan on doing SCCA, HPDE, NHRA ? The JTR radiator and mount, with F-body or Ford Taurus electric fan is a sure way to go. You have to do some trimming and sealing, but not difficult.

There are few hot-rods using the TKO 500 and 600 behind LSx power plants. If I had only found a good deal on a engine only, I would have went the TKO route. Alot of the bugs going the TKO route have been worked through by now. I will say the T56 is a great transmission, but in a my vette I rarely use the 6th gear.

Yes- I am connecting the plenum to the stock Datsun ducting, but have to fabricate a " Y " or tee because the plenum only has one duct connection. A friend at work has at in his jeep and it heats just as good my 4-runner. I got it also more for the defrosting capabilities than the heating.

The pictures do not do it justice !!!!! When I had time for the Georgia Z club stuff, got a chance to take a good look at the car. Yasin, I am like you -I would like to make that car street legal just for giggles !!!

Good news, the Flex a Lite heater can be flipped over so that the water connections are on the passenger side and maybe attach heater to bottom of dash (fabricate a mount easy stuff !!!). I am still searching for some flexible "Y" shape defroster 2 1/2 inch ducting.

Dave, I sent you a PM. Thanks, Glenn

Finally got the dash wired and back in the car. Also, I am trial fitting the Flex a Lite Mojave heater and looking at my mounting options. Next is getting the engine/chassis complete wired. I may put the new fuse panel were the stock Z computer was located and put the LS1 computer under the passenger seat.

Sorry it took so long guys. Here is a picture of the Flex a lite Mojave heater and the plenum. The unit is a pretty solid piece, however the plenum is a overprice piece of plastic. The plenum snaps on to the front of the heater and allow you to funnel hot air to the defrost funnel under the windshield. First, The only problem is the plenum only has a hole on the driver side to attach ducting. Instead of cutting it up (like I normally do !!!!), I will put together a " Y " shape duct to go to the passenger defrost funnel. Second, the feed and return copper water fittings are also on the drivers side, and the feed and return water lines come through the bulk head on the passenger side. My plan will be to remove the stock bulkhead totally, get the hose couplings/reducers and attached to the water hoses in the engine bay. This way if I have a leak it will be the engine bay, and make sure my connection on the heater side is tight. The other option was to flip the heater over, but I now have to come up with a way to attached to the trans tunnel or bottom dash, because there are some extended plastic " C " hooks that can be bolted down. Once I get the chassis/engine wiring done I will follow up on the heater connection in my member project area. I got mine from Summit with Summit bucks and some gift discounts.