skirkland1980

Your mods are limited by the stock efi. If you start changing things I would get a wideband to monitor AFRs. You won't see much improvement without getting more air/fuel through the engine. Have you read BRAAPs sticky?

I also was going to buy an item from a member but he lived closed to me so I was going to pick it up. At first it was ok but then he stopped replying to my emails. Makes me wonder if he was looking to rip someone off?

So the 87-89 Z31 turbo diff is a direct replacement for the 1983 280zx turbo? I also read that the Z31 turbo cv axles are stronger. Are they a direct replacement also? Thanks

Yes, it seems to be maf related in my opinion. I haven't heard of running the maf that way. Are there people running it successfully this way?

Are there any L6 distributors with a bendable reluctor?

I had a similar problem with a bad maf sensor. Do you have a spare you can try?

I hear that ignition timing can vary from cylinder to cylinder on some engines. Has anyone noticed this on the L6? I would check mine if I had an aftermarket dampener but it seems almost impossible with the turbo distributor. Any info on this? Dyno results before and after...?

Is there any benefit to altering the intake port spacing when enlarging the ports? Like offset the port to one side or the other or just keep them centered with the original spacing? Thanks

Thanks. This will give me something to exercise my brain. I have also heard that springs my resonate at say, 8500 rpm, and not at 9000 rpm for example so to be sure you still need spintron data. This should get me in the ballpark.

I'm looking for a formula to calculate needed spring pressure that will apply to any engine with valve springs.

Is there a formula that valve spring manufacturers use to recommend a certain valve spring pressure? I know it all depends on valve train reciprocating mass and rpm. The L28 valve spring feels a lot stiffer than a stock genI sbc valve spring and the L28 has less reciprocating mass in the valve train. Are valve spring upgrades even necessary on the L28? The sticky about valve train balancing left me with this question. Thanks

I'd say closer to 2000.

No. The problem is that converters for V8s stall at a lower rpm for the L6.

This one I think. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hup-22-30l/overview/ I would have to see my receipt to make sure because I only remember paying about $450 for mine. I checked this is the one...22-30L

I was told, with a regrind, they can't adjust LSA. I was thinking about a 107 or 108 lsa since I have a pretty large exhaust a/r on my turbo. I'd like about .450"/.440" lift int/exh, around 220 duration @ .050 107 lsa.

http://blog.raceology.com/ In my opinion anything by Don Terrill is worth reading. I haven't been paid to say this but his books are worth buying/reading...

I have an 83 280zx turbo. Mods are listed in my sig. Engine has all stock internals. P90a, dished pistons, etc. I'm considering a cam upgrade. Has anyone tried this comp cam? It's not much more than a stock cam but has a little more duration. Did you need thicker lash caps, retainers, springs? I already plan on changing to solid lifters. Should I just use the N42 cam that I already have or will neither be a worthwhile upgrade? I want more power while keeping the boost under 20psi. Thanks

I almost forgot to update this. I got the car back together with the hughes 3000 stall converter and it's wonderful! The car is very quick now with no slipping 2nd gear. Thanks for everyone's input.

Hey thanks for the ford info. I did a search under a 1990 ford bronco II 2.9L and the seals came up to $4.99 each. Then found the sticky. Turns out to be a common problem after all. Guess this one's on it's way to the tool shed.

So Ford uses a similar seal?

I just got a quote of $56 for Nissan seals. Does anyone know of a cheaper route that would be of the same quality?

Well I pulled the intake and exhaust manifold and it is the stem seals. So I pulled the head and removed the worst one and I see nothing wrong with the seal. I guess I'll try to find some seals from Nissan.

I started out using the sleeves to protect the seals when installing them but they seemed fine so I stopped using it. Maybe I damaged them and didn't realize it.

Hello. I just replaced the head gasket set on my L28ET. I also replaced the valve stem seals supplied in the felpro gasket kit part number HS8799PT-1. Now my engine is burning a lot of oil. I'm thinking the valve stem seals are the problem. Has anyone had any experience with these felpro seals? If so which ones should I use? I found these. They are said to be OE. http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Nissan/280ZX/Ishino/Valve_Stem_Seal/1983/Turbo/6_Cyl_2-dot-8L/W0133-1644072.html?tlc=Engine+%26+Drivetrain Thanks