mikeatrpi

Hey now, progress! Now you can set the trigger angle........ Also, I'm sure you're grounding the electrode when you're looking for spark in the plug? It needs a ground, you can't just have the plug floating in your hand and expect to see a spark.

Mat - Were you able to set the trigger angle, per our google chat yesterday? I'm going to guess "no" because its not sparking to the cylinders. Maybe you can play with the numbers anyway and see if it helps? Also - what color is the coil wire spark to a ground point?

Mat, were you able to: 1) Put cylinder #1 to TDC and verify rotor position and wire connections - firing order - on the cap? 2) Set the correct trigger angle in megatune? Pull the fuel pump fuse and crank the engine while watching for 10 degrees fixed angle with a timing light?

I almost fell out of my chair when they said that! It was hysterical! I'll forgive her, though, she was really hot, particularly for a British chick... Then May tried to help her with her seat belt without brushing a boob... also very funny!

I agree with Jeff. Take your time and do your homework. Based on my personal experience - it would have been MUCH easier to get a donor car and do the swap rather than adding a turbo to the NA engine. It probably would have been cheaper as well - things like the megasquirt and wideband add up quick. You can argue that you'd buy those anyway if you had a donor car, but you wouldn't have to. To directly answer your question - any of the L heads will flow well enough for modest horsepower applications. There is plenty of discussion on this in the archives.

Does anybody else think they over-quoted it because they didn't want the job? Maybe the shop is too busy right now, owner wants to take a vacation, etc. Haggerty should be on your side, filing a claim with the other driver's insurance. I would consult Haggerty for advice.

... which is correct for a capacitor ... its open until it gains charge ...

Absolutely! I'd love to own one of these style cars. Better yet, I have dreams of building a modern version with a motorcycle engine and sequential gear box. I'm a long way off from retirement, but that just means I have more time to dream about it!

I had a note in my "z_todo.txt" file reminding me to post the numbers I used for the CHTS calibration: Measured CHTS - 32F = 6040 ohms, 69 = 2220, 125 = 459 Suggested CHTS from hybridz.org - 14F = 9000, 68 = 2500, 122 = 840 Values entered for CHTS - 14 = 9000, 69 = 2450, 125 = 700 (averaged measured and suggested; seems accurate now)

Lookin real good Mat! I'm subscribing to see all of your progress.

Here's an updated MSQ. I played with the spark a bit. VE and Advance: AFR in volts: AFR in MegaLogViewer (it converts for you!): newhg8b.zip

Update time. Mat, at the moment, "no" on the intercooler. Ask me again though, sooner or later I'll be putting one in I'm sure! I wanted to caution you people about buying an AEM 30-4100 wideband. Its not a bad unit, not at all, but it is different than the normal Innovate wideband controllers that everyone buys. Rather, be aware that its not inherently supported by Megasquirt; like using your Datsun CHTS for the coolant sensor - you have to do some configuring... First of all, if you put the table from the 30-4100 user guide (AEM's PDF) into Excel, you'll discover that the numbers nearly exactly match the INNOVATE_0_5 setting. AEM_LINEAR is quite different than this sensor, so that is not correct either. After you see that the slope is right and you put it in the car with the INNOVATE_0_5 setting, eyeball the difference between the gauge and the display in Megatune. You'll need to change the Y-intercept in the equation that Megatune uses to get them exact in-step. For me, Megatune read 0.7 AFR leaner than the gauge. To fix it, edit the lambdasensors.ini file. I chose to use WB_UNKNOWN and edit that. The downside is that you'll need to enter your AFR's in volts. There's probably a way around that' date=' but I'm still playing around. Back to excel for the quick solution: [img']http://z.modeltrainguide.com/albums/album59/excel_adjusted_AFR_Volts.gif[/img] Finally, in MegaLogViewer, again use a custom linear setting with the appropriate parameters:

Here are my current megasquirt maps. The car runs acceptably well. It still shoots rich and lean getting on and off the throttle, but this should be good enough for anyone with a similar setup (cough Mat cough) to get started. I'm open to suggestions! Specs: 1982 Datsun 280zx NA F54 block P79 head, stock flat-tops Stock ZXT fuel injectors 260cc BPR7ES plugs at 0.032" 160 degree thermostat Magnecor wires Locked VR distributor Megasquirt 1 v3.0 running MSnSE v029y4 AEM 30-4100 wideband exhaust - 2.5" downpipe to cat, 2" back stock 280zx T3 turbo and exhaust manifold wastegate set to approx 4.9 psi eclipse blow off valve on stock j-pipe GM IAT sensor, Nissan Quest TPS, Datsun CHTS newhg6.zip

As they say, at least everyone is OK. You'll get the car fixed in no time I'm sure. Keep us posted on the repairs!

Yes, I have. I used the cheaper stuff on my manifold, and it burned off quickly. I recently used the expensive "VHT" brand on my downpipe; it burned off at the flange but the rest of it that isn't wrapped seems to be holding up reasonably well. In my experience - spray cans are useless on the high-temps. If you want it super-fancy, get those parts coated.

Mine came out with an ez-out. I used a cheapie stud again, but I dremel'd out the hole in the manifold to give it some wiggle room. The washer (or engine lift point on the back) applies the pressure anyway and its plenty oversize.

I forgot to mention, you can see my new fancy Magnecor wires in the last pic. They're supposed to suppress noise. You can't use a timing light with them - I tried. Also, I installed a 160 degree thermostat and BRP7ES plugs at .032" gap - both are colder than stock. It should help with the pinging. Anyway I took the car for its first long run with the new gasket. It really ran well, nice and smooth! I kept my conservative timing map loaded in the MS, and there was absolutely no pinging on my drive. So, I think I can safely step up the timing a little bit after studying other folks' maps in the sharing sticky. This is proof that my repair to the VR distributor is working. And that's a very good feeling!

This is the part number I ordered from Summit for my valve cover breather... KNN-62-1340

Hi Ed, I have pin 24 = VR+, and pin 2 = VR-. I'm assuming this is a "data" and "data-not", but I've never had a scope to use on it to verify. Perhaps the inverted data is the extra pin you can't identify on your pickup? The MS drawing shows pin 2 as "where needed". I used coax on mine to suppress noise. Its 50 ohm impedance coaxial, and it is a lot thinner than cable TV coax... however I see no reason why cable tv coax wouldn't work the same. I'm just pointing out the difference since I had a comparatively easy time soldering to the ground on mine. I have data and data-not on the cores of two separate coaxial cables, snipped flush at the sensor, and the shielding soldered to battery ground at the MS side. I'm not sure what a 1k resistor is going to do for you, between data and gnd, except perhaps terminate the signal? However, its such a low frequency I'd be surprised if you needed the termination. I'd ditch the resistor. In addition to what the MS drawing shows, I also have pin #15 pulled to ground. I believe "someone told me to" do this.

I finished the head gasket job earlier today. It was easy enough to remove the manifolds, turbo, and the associated parts, and just as easy to put them back together. Removing the head wasn't so bad; none of the bolts broke, and I didn't drop the chain. I used a soft handle screw driver as a wedge to lock the timing chain and keep it from falling. The ARP studs worked well- it was super easy to line up the head and slide it into position. Yes, I waffled a bit over the price but I'm glad I bought them. I installed the MSA head gasket dry, but I did copper-kote the manifold gasket. In about 100 miles I'll re-torque the intake and exhaust manifold bolts, and I'll probably check the torque on the head too for peace of mind.

Yep, mine came in the mail a few days ago. Its an excellent issue, as usual with GRM. Matt Cramer of DIY AutoTune fame / member on this site is featured in the megasquirt article. And, what's up with the purple valve covers on the race-240's?

Hi Mat, the gaskets came today. The head gasket measures 1.58mm thick at the metal ring between two cylinders. I'm sure my measurement isn't terribly accurate for a variety of reasons, so in my opinion its OK to call the MSA gasket 1.5mm thick.

There are 8 issues a year, with a calendar in the December or January issue. I have been subscribing for a few years now. Its an excellent magazine! I haven't received the datsun issue yet though! I tried to get the free issue of Classic Motorsports but it never worked for me? Also FYI when you sign up for GRM, you'll also get some catalogs from safe-racer, racer parts wholesale, and pegasus... maybe others I've forgotten.

OK, fine... Like most things in life, "do it right the first time" is a sound philosophy. I ordered an ARP stud kit off EBay last night for $131. A hundred here, a hundred there - oh well, right? I'd hate to break the head bolts, or have it blow again and have to re-do this job. Size of the gaskets - you mean thickness? No idea. I'll check it out for you when they come in the mail.

Hey Mat - Nope, I have never had the head off the car. I ordered two head gaskets and intake / exh manifold gaskets from MSA. Two, so that I'd have spares 'next time'. You know, like carrying an umbrella when the forecast is 50% rain... Why does everybody say the ARP studs are so great? I'm tempted to re-use the head bolts that came with the car. Unless somebody tells me that's a seriously bad idea.