ezzzzzzz

If you've never done a project vehicle then you really don't know how much time and money can get dumped into it. Double that if you've got minimal tools and limited mechanical experience. Plenty of us have been there too. You are better off spending twice the money to buy a really solid car that won't drain you financially or emotionally. Give him your phone number and politely ask him to call you when he is willing to sell the vehicle for a reasonable price. It would make a good project or parts cars for half the money...maybe. If some one else buys it then consider it good fortune. You'll find something better for $2k just keep looking and don't jump too quickly.

Again, what year car are we talking about??? Does it have points or an electronic (such as Petronix) pickup in the dizzy? It could be as simple as closed points (f you have 12v at the coil) Using a long wire lead with alligator clips connect the + on the coil to + on the battery. Turn the engine over and see if it starts. I'm betting on bad/closed points. Don't assume the PO knew the proper firing order or did it correctly either. Check the firing order of 153624. I'd also bet your original carbs were good enough but the mechanics were clueless about SU's and how to adjust them.

So why doesn't it start? Is the problem fuel or ignition? What year vehicle are we talking about? Did you start easter egging to fix an initial problem? If so, what was that problem? We can probably help with a little insight.

The rad you have should work fine, assuming it is two or three core, for a stock 2.8L. Use the flywheel and clutch assembly off the 2.4L. Be sure the pressure plate and throwout bearing are for the same application. 2.4L had a tall pressure plate and short bearing. 2.8L had a shorter pressure plate and taller bearing.

If you buy standard bolts don't go to your local Lowes or Ace Hardware. They sell crap chinese hardware. Find a fastener supplier and order good 'American' hardware. Your best bet is going with Nissan parts from Courtesy. There's also ARP. Im building a stroker engine using a diesel block and P90 head. No one makes a set of head bolts/studs for that application. ARP wanted, get this, $1029 for a custom set of 14 studs! I went to a local supplier (owned by a friend) and ordered 14 12.9 12mm socket head bolts for less than the cost of 1 ARP stud.

Have you considered that you may have a leaking injector? That could account for the rapid pressure drop and rich condition too. Pulling the plugs shortly after shutoff might indicate a possible culprit (very wet plug). Does the oil reek of gas? I can't speak of the pumps or relays because I'm still running SU's.

Can't go wrong with Redline either.

I'm guessing no one has done this or had that problem. Your using the old push rod? Can it be lengthened? Any reason why you chose to use the S130 MC or the S30?

What's wrong with a stock pump? Nissan built hundred's of thousands of L6 and the factory oil pumps seemed to be fine for nearly all applications. What will you be doing with you car? How often, if ever, will you see or exceed 7000 rpm? The turbo pump flows 1.9 ml more per pump revolution or slightly more than 10% over the N/A version to feed the turbo. A stock street engine should have 11 psi at idle and high pressure between 50-70 psi. A rally (read that as constant high rpm often above 7000 rpm) should see around 85+/-7 psi maximum oil pressure. Figure on 10 psi per 1000 rpm. It's easy to throw cash at specialty parts but consider if you REALLY need them.

AK-Z, would you part with the bracket alone? Got a picture of it?

Yes. I'd appreciate it. You can post here or send to mark4460@cox.net

I should have clarified. I'd forgotten about the early passenger side bracket for the york compressor. That won't do either. It would be the drivers side bracket found in the old aftermarket a/c kits like that from MSA.

SSFlyer, in my early days of eBay I learned that, like sellers, not all buyers are honest. That said, I only ship USPS Priority signature required...period! It is stated clearly in every applicable auction. If the buyer doesn't like it then they shouldn't bid. Too many cases of items being 'lost' and 'never received'. I always paid back the buyers but was always suspicious. Ironically, with the signature requirement that problem has never occurred again and it has been years now. Reddat does charge excessively for shipping. I personally hate that padding. First class mail is just generic mail. It is damn near the cheapest possible at USPS. Lastly, ALWAYS research the part or ask on these forums about availability. I OFTEN see 'rare' items on eBay listed well above their value that are actually still available through Nissan.

I always find those missing parts after they've been replaced. Of course, I also find every other part I will use later on but it goes missing when I need it.

I need this bracket for another project. The stock aluminum piece won't do. Has anyone got this laying around or in a parts car?

Find a hydraulics service business in your area. Another option would be a 'power transmission/bearing' supplier.

225mm would be about as wide as you'd want to fit to a 7" wide rim. 7 x 25.4mm =177.8mm divide that by 8 gets you 22.225mm x 10 = 222.25mm such that the rim width is 80% of the tire's tread width. 225 is closer to 78-79% but still close enough. 205mm is about max for a 6.5" width rim. 80% of tread width is considered the minimum rim width by most tire manufacturers.

The 240SX (KA) transmission swap is reasonable and has proven to be a strong contender behind some high hp cars over here. I'd look into that option.

WTB an aftermarket ac compressor bracket like that found in the a/c kit from MSA. Contact me by PM or email at mark4460 at cox dot net.

Not without damage to the gaskets. You should be able to pull the head and reuse your gasket since it hasn't been run yet. Worse case is another head gasket purchase.

I think they're called 'razors'.

The wonderful thing about dealing with phase shift is staying 'uncomplicated'. Most people want several amplifiers, eq's, and so on. It looks impressive and expensive but usually sounds no better than a 'simple' well-thought out system. When you walk into a stereo shop they'll usually have a 'custom' vehicle with a huge system and loads of soundproofing. It sounds loud and awesome sitting on the floor. It is intended to get you to part with your $$$. Back to reality. I am a 'straight wire' purist. Use the least equipment possible to minimize signal distortion. The phase shifting is done by simply wiring the speakers in or out of phase (think positive and negative leads reversed on some speakers). It really is that simple (I wish I'd come up with it). Also, for others reading this, if you're intent on using an external amplifier then invest in a high dollar low wattage unit. You can't get 200 clean watts out of a $150 amplifier. Most high-end head units have much cleaner onboard amps and provide very adequate power for matched speakers. Again, go to Decware.com for more info. I have no affiliation with the site other than paying for access like everyone else. The things you'll learn are well worth the small price of admission.

310Z, you are referring to phase shift with speaker placement. I concur that this could be a problem. The way to address it is to consider time relationship to your ears where distance is the principle factor. By placing your speakers out of phase you can achieve proper timing. There are more ways to accomplish this but adding additional electronics or components diminishes the sound. My system will consist of nine speakers using only three channels. Two channels (eight speakers) for left/right and one for sub. If interested, you might want to look at the Decware site. You'll have to pay for info but what you'll learn is worth the small price.

Stick with NGK. Why change something that performs well? Don't get sucked into those multi-electrode gimmicks. A spark is going to jump to the path of least resistance every time.

Pilot bearing flush. Use an old input shaft or alignment tool. Cut the head off two long bolts and grind flats for a wrench or slot for a screw driver. Install bolts in the block. These are used to align bellhousing to block. Once everything is pulled up snug remove those two modified bolts and insert proper bolts. Drink beer.