Phyxius

from what i understand, 4 speeds are just 5 speeds without overdrive. The KA tranny will hold a good bit more power than the z tranny's. plus they are much easier to find.

is this swap feasible for the s130? It would certainly eliminate the squatting problem.

I have a 280zx with a KA tranny, but I don't have the stock turbo, so that flange won't fit.... do you have any other flange options available?

forgive my ignorance, but what do you mean by welded? they used a tig to build up material in the cc?

Mine is still working well, but has developed a slight squeak. I've been told this is common with this type of clutch disc.

I have that problem when my starter goes out (about once every 3-4 months). A new starter usually fixes the problem, but since you've already replaced yours, I'm not sure what to tell you.

Are you using a frequency counting multi-meter to test for a signal? If you are just looking for some voltage coming out of the wire when the trigger passes, it may not register. You may try using a small light bulb or LED to see if it lights (or turns off...depending on the sigal...i can't remember at the moment which it would do) when the trigger points pass the sensor.

It only does it in gear, and the pitch changes when I shift, so I'm pretty sure it's not the diff. I checked the oil levels in both though, just to be sure. They were both drained and filled about 2 months ago.

After a few passes at the strip the other night, I've started to notice a lot of gear-whining noise coming from my tranny in every gear. I've checked the gear oil level, and it looks fine. I'm using Lucas Oil synthetic gear oil mixed with Castrol's normal stuff. So I guess the question is... What is causing this, and is a tranny rebuild in my near future?

Ok, I'm not sure how this works for other year models, but here is how i got it to work for mine ('79). I'm using the MSnS triggered from the stock crank angle sensor on my '81 turbo motor. Getting the MSD to work is simple enough. It can be triggered directly from the MS with no problems...you don't even need the pullup resistor. In this configuration, the stock tach will not work. At least mine wouldn't. It can't be triggered by the MSD's tach output or the coil, so I got the 8910 tach adapter. Ok...here's the tricky part. If you want your tach to work, you have to use either the HEI module or the stock ignition module to trigger the MSD. The MS will trigger the module as before the MSD. You'll hook the wire that went from the module to the (-) terminal on the coil to the MSD white wire and tach adapter as shown in the tach adapter instructions. Basically, the (-) terminal wire becomes the trigger wire, and you use the tach adapter to convert the signal to something the tach understands. I know that's about as clear as mud, so maybe I'll draw a nice diagram later.

Yeah, I don't mind buying the 8910, it is more of an excercise to see if I can do it myself...

I just installed a 6AL in my car, and with no suprise, the tach doesn't work. It's hooked up to the msd box, but to no avail. I was wondering if anyone knows what kind of signal that '79 tach needs to register, or if anyone who has a 8910 would be willing to take it apart to see what's inside . If i know what kind of signal it needs, I may be able to come up with a circuit to do it myself. The MSD box puts out a 12v square wave at 20% duty cycle. just need to know what to convert it to...

i have a t3/t04e with a huge ic and 3" piping....i get full boost about 2800 rpm.... it felt like my car was quicker with the bigger piping...

wow...

gaskets and bearings if you are rebuilding... $100+ for the good stuff You can get a decent fuel management system for way less than $600 (megasquirt), and there is a nice support base on this forum and msefi.com to help with any problems. I'd say the MOST you can spend on a MS system is $300 if you build it yourself...maybe $400 if someone else builds it and you get the works. I've got about $200 in mine and I didn't build it myself. I'd say go megasquirt and use what you save to get a Garrett turbo from a reputable source. I got mind from http://www.phoenixturbo.com and have been running it over a year @ 12psi and recently at 14psi with no problems. It's a T3/T04E 60 trim with a stage III turbine, 360degree thrust bearing, water cooled center section, and HPC coated turbine housing. IIRC, it was somewhere near $800. You can knock off the 360 bearing, water cooling, and hpc coating and get it for about $600 I think. I'm personally not a fan of JWT. I'm sure his products are nice in quality, but his prices are a little too high for me.

the one i have only has 2 terminals on it...and then 2 wires that go to the coil...

Sometimes when i'm full throttle above 3k rpm , i get a really hard miss..or something...it's just a single jolt every couple of seconds. I want to think it's just misfire from running too rich, but i'm not sure. I don't know enough about what detination and pre-ignition feel like to tell if it is either of those. also, sometimes after i start my car up, it will stumble really bad and backfire into the manifold making the boost gauge read 5psi or so...what's up with that?

i have an '81 ignition module...not sure if they are the same...

that's what bushings are for To use this piston, you'd have to have offset bushings and possibly take some material off the top of the piston. By the time you did that, you may have $500 in the setup if you pay someone to do it...so you'd be just as well to have bought some made for the engine.

found it... http://www.21cgt.com/FMWebCatalog/default.htm Part number: L2206F

i've been looking, but unable to find any specific specs on corvair pistons...anyone know what they are?

that's pretty funny...

Would anyone like to donate or sell very cheaply a short block to this cause? An F54 block with flat top pistons would be ideal. Being in the South East US would help too. I'm in Starkville, MS.