NewZed

You might want to reserve judgement until after you (try to) install the parts. They've had problems in the not so distant past. July.

Not clear what this means. There is no "upper pan". This is a 280Z but it's the same engine. You posted Sunday so probably already got it done. Good luck. https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-280z/cylinder-block

Did you grab the engine and see if it moves? That's all I was suggesting. Trust (your ideas). But verify (that they work). “Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world. ” ― Archimedes

I'm sure that you've considered it and I don't know what you would do to cure it if it is a problem but those engine mounts are very long lever arms. What happens if you grab the top of the engine and pull it side to side? Probably best to test it now than to wait. Even the mass of the engine in a turn will place a lot of force on them. Just something that grabs the eye from the pictures. Unusual engine mounting. Edit - fore and aft also. Much lifting force on the rear mount under braking. Fatiguing of the front crossmember engine mounting points might be a problem. It wasn't designed for that type of twisting force. And you've moved the elastic portion up to the engine at the top of the lever arm. The attachment to the crossmember is all metal. Hate to be a Debby Downer but you have access now to work on it, rather than later.

Did you see the turbo threads here? Kind of hard to find. https://forums.hybridz.org/forum/90-l-series/

The computer grounds the injectors every third spark. It uses the wire to pin 1 to monitor the ignition system. There's a pretty simple electrical system check in the 1980 EFI book. Check the circuits before getting crazy with parts. That's why they wrote the books. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/file/32-efi-book-1980/

It's not uncommon. I added a terminal post near the battery for a few things. If I had a bunch I'd probably just install an auxiliary fuse box. Otherwise you have a bunch of inline fuses to take care of. There are many out there but a trip to the salvage yard would probably find one that is weatherproof and high quality. Depends on where you want it mounted. Looks like I'm on the same page as jhm, who replied as I was writing.

Seems like you might need a better wrench. A six point box end would be best. 12 mm I believe. p.s. forgot to mention the original impact wrench. Tighten up the wrench on the nut. Then hit it with a hammer. p.s. 2 - it will take a lot of heat to get the flange hot enough to hurt the seal. A torch on the nut should help. Doesn't have to be red hot. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Capri-Tools-12mm-WaveDrive-Pro-Combination-Wrench-for-Regular-and-Rounded-Bolts/5001577325

Barely know what you're working with but I did find a crankshaft position sensor online for the 2jz and see that it's a two wire unit. That means it's a variable reluctor system. There will be continuity across those two pins in the sensor harness to the sensor. There should be a resistance of a few hundred ohms, typically. It's not clear what you mean when you say you measured with the plug connected and got continuity. Can't tell which side of the plug you're measuring, to the sensor or to the ECU. Anyway, the signal to the ECU is generated when the metal teeth of the trigger wheel pass by the sensor. The sensor has to be within a certain distance from the sensor, that's very important. There's spec but it's usually a few thousandths. Pretty close. The basic testing is to measure resistance across the two pins to be sure the coil is intact and will work. Then set the air gap. Then test that a signal is being generated. https://www.jdmgarageuk.com/90919-05037.html Here's a pretty good video about the basics. .

Probably just fine. The polyurethane products were developed as a performance improvement. More precise steering, less wheel movement. The aftermarket will hype and sell whatever they can.

Actually it's rubber in the back, poly in the front. The front bushing takes the force under braking on the Z's, under compression, and is the one that you don't want compressing too much, making the steering squishy. But the poly should not have split. It does take a lot of side forces as the rod moves up and down with the suspension. But usually it causes the rod end to fatigue and break off. Seems like you got a bad batch of polyurethane. Bad chemistry, or a knockoff.

Share.

https://www.schneidercams.com/270-60F-14_LET6.aspx Did Schneider give you an idea of what vacuum reading you should be able to get? Opening up the lash effectively "detunes" the cam. Less lift. Seems like an odd suggestion. Does your engine have any EGR remnants? The EGR passages have been known to rot inside the manifold and leak internally.

Might help your conversation to distinguish between "no signal" and "no signal showing in Tunerstudio". The first is a problem at or with the hall sensor itself, the second could be anywhere in between or at the computer.

Sounds like front wheel bearings. Your tires will wear out faster also.