NewZed

I saw an article in one of the hot rod mags a few months or more ago where they blocked the ends of a dented header with a wood plate, heated the dented area up red hot, then pressurized the tubes to push out the dent. As I recall, it worked fairly well. It took a little bit of fabrication for the air supply and the blocking plates. They had to closely control pressure and heat of course, but it didn't sound too difficult. The idea might work on your dent. I was just browsing the racks so don't remember which magazine it was.

Are the bleed valves on the top of the calipers, where they should be? On the front discs, it is possible to switch the calipers from side to side and end up with the bleed valves on the bottom. If the bleed valves are on the bottom you can never get all of the air out, there will be an air pocket above the bleed valve. A big one. I know this because my car came this way, and had your symptoms, and it took me quite a while to figure out. I don't know how the back calipers fit but it would be worth your while to make sure you got them on the proper sides.

What car and engine are you working with? AFMs control fuel pump power only in certain years. Your pump-tapping solution suggests that is not the problem though. Plus the fact that it turns over but doesn't fire now. When you hit Start, the fuel pump cutoff is bypassed, whether it is AFM or oil pressure controlled. If it was the AFM switch it would start, run for a few seconds, then die.

That is the half-shaft and what remains of a u-joint. Yes, there is a clip on the inside that holds the bearing cup in. Hard to see, it's probably covered in grease and grime. Yours must have popped off probably because someone previous did not get it all the way on. They can be tough to get in the groove. The bearing cup can't come out if the clip is in. Here is a link I found in the past with pictures, and more advice on changing them. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27855&highlight=u-joint

You are trying to sell parts in the Parts Wanted area....

Sounds like you don't have the boot hooked up yet, re ComicArtists' suggestion. So you're running the motor's exhaust through the turbo but without the inlet hooked up so no boost, just spinning things to see if everything works? If the AFM boot is not connected to the turbo inlet, what is it connected to? And what is the turbo intake connected to, both sides? Is it just blowing air? Are you basically running an N/A motor through a turbo exhaust? I'm not a turbo guy (could be eventually) but this sounds interesting...

No offense intended, but you should really browse through the Engine Fuel section of the Service Manual. It is easy reading and very informative. The AFM is just one input of many to the ECU that determines how long to leave the injectors open, to supply the proper amount of fuel to the engine. The AFM flap is suppoed to be "moved" by the air that flows by it, not vice versa. When you moved the AFM flap by hand, the ECU supplied more fuel to the motor, because the AFM signal was showing that the throttle was opening.

5 years is a long time. You didn't mention anything about using new gas or cleaning out the old in your first post. Old gas does not burn like new gas, plus old gas in the carbs can cause problems, gumming things up over time and as it evaporates away.

A new puzzle...When was the last time the car ran? 74 with a 5 speed. So the transmission is not original. Is the motor? Is it still carbs or EFI now? The 74s have an electric fuel pump and a mechanical one, I believe. You should check them. This might help with your electrical problems - There is a contact cleaner called Deoxit DN5 that you can get from Guitar Center or on-line. It will help you diagnose electrical problems before you take things apart, plus it is a really good cleaner to use if you do take things apart. I have had a light stalk switch that did not give any lights at all, fixed just by applying Deoxit. It seems too easy but it works, quite often.

Don't forget to tell what car and motor you're talking about while you're editing.

If you're just cutting the springs, you're probably better off not removing the spindle pin. It will cost you time for sure, and probably some extra money.

Now I'm confused. What is the Idle Air Control Valve on a 280Z engine? I can't find any reference to it in the FSM or elsewhere. I'm here to learn. Thanks. Thread moved to Parts Wanted.

Your ad is in "Cars Wanted". Maybe it should be in "Parts Wanted". Ball joints and gaskets are usually bought new from a parts supplier. You can't want used? Right? And 280s don't have an Idle Air Control Valve. Maybe you mean Air Regulator, the device that controls idle air supply when the engine is cold. Just trying to help...

I do most of my easy driving at 1800 - 2200 rpm myself. Motor just likes it there and that's where the speed limits and gearing seem to match up. Here is some good info from classiczcar, different problem, but pertinent to your situation. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=325461#post325461 Post #7.

This link might help you out - http://www.xenons130.com/reference.html. There is another unzip utility called winrar out there if you don't have winzip. The Engine Fuel section is worth studying. There is some unusual stuff used to make these engines work, especially if you grew up on old American cars.

You mean fuel pressure gauge, right? Your car has a regulator already (at least it came with one and should still be there), mounted on the fuel rail. The Airtex pump is commonly recommended as an after market replacement, I believe, because it will fit in the same spot as the old one, with some modifications and can handle the pressure and volume necessary for the engine. I have one on my 76 and it works fine. One downside though, based on how I understand things, is that the original pump had a pressure relief valve that relieved pressure at the pump if line pressure got over about 43 - 64 psi. I don't think the Airtex has that so it could feasibly pressurize your lines to 95 psi if the return line got clogged. It would be worth measuring fuel pressure with a gauge and checking your return line and regulator if it is very high. I would be interested to know if you get a very high pressure reading since I have the same pump and have wondered what would happen if the return line got pinched or clogged. There are also several other reasons for your car to run rich, too many to take a guess, many due to temperature sensors and corroded connections. You could probably learn a lot just by searching the word "rich". It's a fairly common problem.

Thanks for the input on the car in the video. The comments at the Liveleak video site ruined it for me though, so I edited the link out. Still looked like an interesting car though.

So he's using low gears to break the tires loose, then power-braking and beating on it to keep them spinning. I thought maybe it was typical of a turbo motor, perhaps. I don't know much about the various L-series Z flavors yet. The comments imply that it was happening in Saudi Arabia or Iran. Don't read them if you're easily offended. They do have that oil money to blow over there and they seem to have a fascination with drifting so maybe they build motors just for tire-spinning...

Seems to have some good power. My 76 Z won't do that. Edit - Decided to pull this video after thinking about the comments AT the video site (Liveleak), not here. Thanks for the input.

That drawing is from the Factory Service Manual. The one in the downloadable file from xenons30 looks a little bit more legible. Plus the tramming procedure is included. It's in the Body section. You can download it for free. http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html

It's a vacuum tank to accumulate vacuum (if that's even possible) for actuating the various valves, both water and air, for your heater and AC if you have it. Air Conditioning refers to both heating and cooling. Too much free time...

Shadesh's pictures are right. The bolts go in from the bottom. Here's an FSM picture. The transmission mount nut is the same. Take it to Ace Hardware or a similar store and ask them to match it. All you need is thread pitch and diameter, the outer dimensions can be different.

I don't think the key should stay in the Start position. It's spring loaded, so that's not right. If the key was on Start, even though it shouldn't be, and your starter didn't turn, that's not right either. Plus smoke from wiring is never good, it means you burned some insulation. Replacing burned wires is never fun, because the shorted wire, no matter what it runs, will usually take out several others, and melt the rest together. You're asking for more future smoke, and serious aggravation, if you don't dig a little deeper.

I put a new "stock" clutch and pressure plate behind a 76 motor with a 78 transmission, but did not have the flywheel refinished because it looked "okay" and I wanted to save a few dollars. I cleaned the metal surfaces with Brakleen before assembly. It works fine, but it chatters a little, sometimes (when it's cold), at low rpm engagement. I think this might be because the clutch disc is seeing two friction surfaces with different characteristics, a shiny smooth one and a freshly machined one. It's not a huge deal, but can be irritating. The T/C rod comment is about the tension/compression rod in your video (connects to the bottom of the transverse link aka control arm) with the red round bushing on the end. Poly in the back of the rod can (according to some, big discussion topic, search T/C rod poly bushings here and at classiczcar) cause the threaded rod end to fatigue over time and break off. Re your throwout bearing - I haven't tried it but you could probably eyeball the pressure plate spring - clutch fork contact point, after you install the transmission, before you fit the rubber dust boot on over the fork, using your eye or a mirror if you can't get your head up there. If the throwout bearing doesn't move when you wiggle the fork, it's jammed up against the springs. You could also measure distances from the back of the motor to the contact points while it's out. Pressure plate to back of motor vs. throwout surface of fork-mounted bearing to front of trans.

You should probably go to this web link first - http://www.oregon.gov/ODOT/DMV/vehicle/damage.shtml - and read all of it, then follow the link to "Reconstructed Vehicle Procedures.". Then look at the current title for the car, and look closely at the insurance company paperwork, and decide what you can do with it. If it fits the last description, "junked", you might never get it titled. I think that "salvage" might mean "junk" in Oregon. "Totaled" cars can be issued a "recontructed" title. If it is just totaled and needs a reconstructed title, it doesn't look too hard to do in Oregon. I have a parts car with an OR title that says Totaled and Reconstructed right on the title. Edit - follow the links and you'll find out how much it will cost also. And that looks like a 77 or later so it will have to pass DEQ before you can get a new title. Looks like some work.