NewZed

The "cranking" circuit should be fairly simple to follow out. It just puts power to the small wire on the starter, when you turn the key to Start (it does a few other things but that's the basics). The ignition circuit is on when the key is On, that's why you can start an engine by putting a car in gear, rolling it and engaging the clutch, with the key at On. You can also short the big terminal on the starter to the small one (temporarily) to get the engine to crank, or start if the key is On (make sure it's not in gear if you try this). If you find that the car will start by shorting the starter, but can't figure out the wiring problem from the ignition switch, you could wire in a push button starter, either temporarily or permanently. Start at the small wire on the starter and work your way backward if you're having a "cranking" problem. p.s. I had a Start problem for a while when my key would not turn the "insides" of the electrical portion of the ignition switch far enough to hit Start. I had to bend the little tab at the back of the switch in the direction of rotation to get it do its job. But see if you can short your starter first before you go to that. Edit - the above is for go 260z's problem. It sounds like HakosukaJD has something else. 9V at one side and 0.5 at the other side, all the time, sounds like you have current flowing, which should only happen when the ignition module tells the coil to fire. Otherwise it should just sit there at 12 and 12. You might have a short between the coil and the module. Or a bad coil (maybe). Was your coil getting hot while you were measuring? I'm no electrical wizard so use these ideas carefully... I can take a beating if someone wants to shoot me down.

That's good information bjhines. I was probably confusing things with my one vs three comments, since "one wire" alternators can have multiple wires. The whole "one wire" thing seems like marketing buzz, I don't really get it. If you have a three wire setup in your car, all of the modern technology is there to be used. Why go backwards if you have it? I'm pretty sure that you can hook your S wire to the B terminal on a regular three wire alternator to turn it in to a pseudo one wire, then just rev your engine up every time you start it to get it charging. Anyway...

It sounds like you have all of the parts right in front of you. You could take some measurements. Look at the differences. You didn't refer to any search results either, from here or elsewhere. I'm pretty sure that I have seen this topic mentioned in the past. If you show what you found when you searched, people will usually help you fill in the blanks. You're just offering a blank piece of paper, to be filled in from scratch. That's no fun...

A few simple guesses suggest that you probably put a carb in there somewhere (to improve over "EFI crap"). Maybe even a different engine (although you didn't post under a swap forum). I just took an EFI harness off of a parts car last week and I seem to recall some distributor and coil wires in the vicinity. Did you look at the wiring diagram and make sure that your ignition module/distributor/coil circuits are still intact, and have power? Or at least trace it out so that you know it should work? The ignition module is in the cabin over by the fuse box on the passenger side, up under the dash. You probably disconnected an important wire.

There's no benefit to one-wire over three-wire in operation, as I understand it. One-wire is just two wires easier, but you lose a few things when you're done. The link below is kind of hammy but it's pretty descriptive. Scroll down a half-page to see the pros and cons. If you don't run a good voltmeter, or at least wire up your ammeter (you're back up to two wires already) with your one-wire alternator, you'll have no idea if it's working right (unless you're really tuned in to your fuel pump buzz and brightness of lights). If you're building a race car it might be the way to go, but long-term dependability is nice for a street car. Easier is rarely better (unfortunately), no offense intended to the one-wire camp. http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/onewire-threewire.shtml

So you're implying that you had misfiring injectors before and the new connectors fixed that and gave almost 10% extra fuel mileage. That is worth following up on. Was the car misfiring or stumbling before? Does it run smoother now? Type and year of car and engine would be useful too (can't find it in your profile). I'm interested. More details would be nice. I still have the original, cracking, loose connectors on mine, although they have been cleaned up (low budget). Edit - Just noticed 280Z in your title. My mistake.

The Body Electrical (BE) section has drawings of all of the relays, in their locations. http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html The wiring diagram here looks pretty good. Opened in Firefox, you can zoom in and scroll around on the gif file. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electrical.htm

Page EF-8 in the FSM describes the fuel pump safeties. Alternator and oil pump switch. Use vise-grips, pliers and a vise if you really want to see what's in your filter. You really should check fuel pressure anyway, just as a typical maintenance check of pump, filter and lines (pressure drops), and fuel pressure regulator. Borrow a gauge if you can if you don't want to buy one. You're not getting a lot of replies here, because this is 101 stuff, and you're on the grad level site. Download the manual and start reading, it's full of good things. The Engine Fuel section is the best.

That's not good. You might have been running rust particles through there for a while. Might explain the excess noise. If that was my pump, I would test pressure and flow then decide if it's worth keeping.

That looks like the stock pump too (maybe not original but factory issue) and they should be pretty quiet from what I've read. That atlanticz link is a good one, read the whole page. Might help you get your safety system back working. The way you're set up now, if you bust a fuel line, your pump will just keep pumping gas. Not a good scenario.

I'm asking. What was the issue? Save someone else from having the same problem in the future. That's what the forum is about.

That sounds pretty noisy. You should crawl up under the car, right where your first video is pointed and see what kind of pump you have and how it is mounted. You can probably squeeze up under there without even jacking the car up (parking brake on of course). I've read that the Walbro 225s are pretty noisy. Or yours might be mounted with no sound deadening rubber mounting material. Ideally, the pump body and fittings are not contacting any metal, only rubber. If your pump runs continuously with the key at On but the engine not running, then someone probably bypassed the safety switches.

Maybe it's described in the FSM...

The atlanticz site has a variety of full and partial diagrams. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electrical.htm Edit - The FSM diagrams in the downloadable FSMs from xenons30 are pretty good also. 1972 is the earliest available though. http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html

Simplifying (or maybe not) this concept even further - has anyone run or even started an engine on a typical engine stand, like the 1000 lber that Harbor Freight sells? Of course, the transmission mounting points are occupied so that's a problem. And the torquing of the engine's mass when you hit the gas might be dangerous, the whole thing could fall over. It would be fun to build a solid sturdy engine stand with space for a bellhousing, starter, radiator, etc. but afterward it would just sit and take up space. I have this vision of possibly fabricating a plate to sandwich between the stand and the engine, to mount the starter on. Just thinking at this point. I've already ruled out a rope around the crank pulley... If anyone has done this with an L engine, or seen it done or heard horror stories of why not to do it, please share. I still remember watching a high-compression big-cam small block chevy motor dance around on the shop floor just so my friend could hear the results of his work as soon as possible.

Thanks for the ideas. If the Ranchero and Falcon are possibilities, then the Mustang should be in there too, I assume? I checked the weights and the E30, Ford products and the Chevy II all look in the 280Z ball park. Firebirds and Camaros are surprisingly heavy. That E30 looks like a tight fit. I am curious about the 240K in Noddle's sig though. Is there a US analog or is that Asia only? And I would guess the Maxima and 810 are Datsun options (maybe they are the 240K analogs?). I think that I've seen a 510 with an L6 but not sure. I've only been on these forums for a little over a year so haven't absorbed it all. I wiki'ed E49 - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chrysler_Valiant_Charger - I'm starting to understand how the Mad Max movies came about...

xonix, I think the conversation went off on a tangent with the E85 comment. Probably the worst case in your situation is that you find that you can't optimize your timing without running high octane, or at all. If so, you'll have a freshly rebuilt head that you can probably sell to someone who wants what the Maxima N47 offers, and you can go from there in getting the head you want. But you might be fine with how the Maxima N47 head ends up running. If you do stick with the Maxima head, I'm sure it will of interest to some out here how things turn out for you when it's done. Modifying for E85 is a whole separate topic from what your original question was.

Describe how they look compared to the old ones that you took out. Add an Autozone web site link to the specific injector that you bought. Take before and after pics. Did you get new injector seals (rubber seals between the injector and manifold) also? Maybe they are the problem. Just trying to help. There's no way of telling what you really bought, from your question.

"Done!!!" meaning done driving your car for a while after you fill the tank with E85, unless you make some substantial modifications. Wrong? It takes a lot of work to get an old car to run dependably on E85, doesn't it?

I have a spare L28 and 4 speed in my garage and lots of free time. I'm looking for other car models that will take an L28 without too much modification. So far I've seen an Austin Healey 3000 over on zcar.com (way out of my budget), and heard of some Z31s and Z32s. Has anyone seen or heard of any other interesting L6 engine swaps, sports cars or otherwise? I'm trying to put together a list of possibilities that I can look for, for a low budget winter-time project. Something that will actually produce a useful car in the end though, so a 63 Pontiac Bonneville swap, for example, might not be viable. Thanks for any ideas.

I got a Hybridz daily new topics digest today and the content didn't match the link. The following is directly from the e-mail message. Not a huge deal, but signs of a bug. NewZed, This your daily new topics digest! ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Forum: Nissan L6 Forum ===================================== ------------------------------------------- Topic: Help with what unused brackets to remove from engine bay (cgsheen -- 19 hours ago) http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/96330-help-with-what-unused-brackets-to-remove-from-engine-bay/ ........................................... ------------ QUOTE ---------- Thats a GREAT idea!!! I don't know if I think it will have a great effect; I honestly have a doubt or two about that (but it wouldn;t be the first time I was wrong.) But maybe my doubts are just questions.. Why would splitting the intake tract in twain be beneficial, when it seems to be a detriment to install headers that do the same thing, and connect both output pipes to a divorced twice pipe exhaust system? Even if I am right, your idea is a FANTASTIC thing to try "as a tuning option," just like you said. You never know what sort of effect it might have and it probably isn't drastic enough to be judged as a "bad" enough change to outweigh any potential benefits. It is certainly easy enough to try the next time the engine goes to the dyno. ----------------------------- has anyone ever tested this? because i am doing a similar setup but with only the su intake and j30 throttlebodys have to find room for injectors before the flange, and removing this would help. Thanks for any answers givin. Thomas Gribble ===================================== ---------------------------------------------------------------------- The forum can be found here: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?showforum=32 Unsubscribing: -------------- You can unsubscribe at any time by logging into your control panel and clicking on the "Manage Watched Forums" link in the "Forums" tab.

BRAAP and z-ya, thanks for spending the time on this. xonix_digital, thanks for the loan of your thread, I hope your Maxima N47 head works well for you. Going back to your other post - "My $200 L28 Surprise" - there's some data not really discussed. The Maxima head was already showing detonation on a dished piston N42 block. Too bad you can't go back and find out how the guy who owned it was running it. It will be interesting to see if there is any ring land damage, just to get a clue on of how bad the detonation was.

Thanks for the numbers, and the dynamometer results. So, assuming that the N47 and N42 are essentially equivalent in this case, I should be able to just replace the dished pistons in my N42/N42 stock motor with flat tops and achieve an ~19% increase in peak horsepower and 7% increase n peak torque. Or, if the effect is solely due to CR increase, I could swap my N42 head for a Maxima N47 head and get a similar result (assuming negligible difference in cam lobe profiles or a cam swap). Again, not trying to stir things up but that seems to be what's being shown here, and this is the best head to head (piston to piston, CR to CR?) comparison I've seen reported. Especially considering the variability between dynamometer setups that I've seen discussed in other threads. I'm on a low budget so a simple piston or head swap for ~20% increase in HP seems like a good deal! (Note to Admins - of all the forums out there, this is the last one that I would expect to have dynamometer flagged as misspelled...!)

I too am a big fan of real numbers. Do you have the timing values for those two motors and dyno runs? That would be very interesting as far as showing that the higher CR needed reduced advance. Octane rating of fuel would be key also, since high octane could negate the need to reduce timing. I'm not arguing or defending either side. But I think those two items, plus coolant temperature at dyno time, would add a lot to the example, and make things much more clear.