motomanmike

Well have fun with it. I run 20 degrees fixed at the moment and it works. Not as efficient but the car runs good.

LOL Very true. I really shouldn't have said anything about resistors. Just trying to give him an idea of how the system works to deliver fuel and I think he wants a "DO THIS" type answer and didn't read into the "MAY or MAY NOT" work which leans towards NOT I went with Megasquirt because it was a more affordable option that many others have tried and had success with. I've never had any experience with any of the other systems but i'm sure they work well. I swapped an L28ET and never could get the stock system to work right. It took me a LONG time to get MS to work right but now that it does I have no regrets. I really wouldn't be surprised if this whole thread goes to the shed NewZed

The CHTS sensor has a curve to it depending on temperature listed in the FSM. This was pulled from the MS install section just outlining the resistence curve of the stock sensor The Calibration values to use the CHTS are as follows: 14F=9K 68F=2.5K 122F=.84K So when you unplug your temp sensor the ECU things its FREEZING COLD outside and dumps massive fuel, hence your very rich idle with CHTS unplugged. This is what I was saying about using resistors to fool the ECU into what reading it needs to supply the outcome you want. I am in no way experienced with it with the stock system, I never got my car to run right on the stock ECU thats why I went with MS. I just understand how it works enough from running Megasquirt. These are the values of the stock sensor at those temperature values. So at 14 degrees the sensor if you put an ohm meter on it will have 9k ohms of resistence. at 68 degrees the ohm meter will read 2.5k ohms. So you need to figure out how much resistence you need to make your ECU deliver the right fuel so you could go buy an assorted pack of resistors and try splicing them in one of the wires to the CHTS on one lead and experiment increasing the resistance. Its the only solution I can think of that "MAY" work. Its a cheap enough thing to try. Let us know what you find out. Other than that. I mean at the point you are with the build. I'd go with a programmable ECU. If the car was running ok before its probably a corroded wire or bad CHTS sensor possibly a bad ecu with a lean drift. I know you said you changed it but I went through 3 on my build and all 3 had different resistence readings at ambient temp which can have a huge outcome of how the car runs being the stock ECU is that dependant on the CHTS. Good luck.

U can use the 153 tooth. They seem to be more common but some SBC's had a the 168 i think is the number. The larger flywheel won't fit in some of the generations of transmissions. I believe you want a 9 tooth type starter. On your block are your bolt holes for the starter staggered or are the straight across from eachother on that block?

http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms2extra/spareports.html Why couldn't you just set the value to 0 or 1 for the POWER ON VALUE depending on what you have it set now. That way when you turn your key on during cold temp it turns on immedietly instead of being off and waiting for the temp to rise enough to turn it on. Then you might be able to troubleshoot a little further.

Just keep an eye on your temps during ramp runs and make sure everything is in tip top shape. Look everything over very well between runs. You'll be good. Have fun.

Voltmeter check it

I really appreciate the reply but ended up throwing in the towel on the stock system and have gone with Megasquirt 2. I noticed with the threads that have links instead of embedding the information in this site it gets lost in the shuffle of cyberspace. Servers move, domains move people delete pages etc. Hopefully you can give some insight to someone else out there that is struggling like I was about a year ago.

Download the WINRAR to unpack zipped folders from here http://ninite.com/ That should get you into the FSM. You are going to need the FSM for the 82 trust me. Even then its still a fun process to get spark, and injector pulse. Part of the injector pulse is tied to the FP relay so you will need to get an understanding of the wiring you are transplanting. DO NOT HOOK 12V ANYWHERE until you know for a FACT with 100% certainty that your wiring is right.

Any way you can snap some pictures of your set up and specifically the wiring to the set up. I run a pertronix on my one Z, its also a 73 and my tach works fine. it bounces slightly at 5500 rpm but all other ranges it works fine.

What year is your Z?

Well, there are a few that theorize about the stock ECU's leaning out over time. Not sure if its your issue or not but there are some threads on it on this site. Check all your injector wiring at the ECU and also, did the car run better or worse with the original AFM and what was the reasoning for replacing it? The head temp sensor can play a big role in the mistune on these cars too. I've read threads about using various resistors on inputs to the ecu to fool it into thinking it was running hotter or colder, getting more or less air etc etc, whatever the ecu uses to decide what to deliver at what time is what they manipulate whether it be with modifying the part or fooling the part into the right reading. Food for thought. BRAAP seems to have nailed what you can and can't do with the stock AFM in one of his very long detailed informative threads about the stock EFI system. They take some time to read but they are a wealth of knowledge about the intakes, the afm's and the various other L series fuel injection set ups. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/95316-braaps-l6-efi-induction-advice-and-tips/

Not quite sure if your injectors would even open at the right speed at 90lbs of fuel pressure but it might be worth looking into. Also might want to think about an aftermarket fuel management system to replace the stock ECU. Upping fuel pressure to compensate for the lack of engine management isn't the ideal set up for what you are doing.

NewZed is dead on about removing the cable. That is a really easy way to damage an alternator new or old. Get a cheap voltmeter and probe around. I would be willing to bet you have an activation issue. Take a voltmeter. Test for 12v at the main charge battery stud on the back of the alternator. It should read 12.6 volts, or battery voltage. Key off test the T plug. The top should have 12v with key OFF. The bottom should be nothing no reading. Now turn the key ON, take a reading at the bottom of the plug it should read 12v with key on.. This is all that is needed for these alternators to work. A main battery wire, 2 other points of power. one switched one constant. If either one doesn't the alternator will not activate and charge. Its possible it would charge without a sense wire but most the time you would know it because it would overcharge and you'd smell the battery bubbling Good luck.

Lee, I'd send some pics just to see what they would offer. You know what was involved in building that car and round about total build cost, I'm very curious what figure they come back with. Just don't let anyone know where she sleeps

Good news is, it can only get better I would focus on getting EMS on that car as many others have said. Then try to ditch the distributor so you can control spark timing with a coil pack. You'll probably see alot of power just getting the spark timing right with that stroke.

I like my T-5 for now with the power i'm running. It does have the Hurst short shifter on it so I didn't have to modify the console with mine. I love how it shifts. Just had to replace the overly dried out hard leather shift boot. Read up. You might have to modify the transmission cross member but i'm not certain on a 75. You made out pretty good though price wise. Good luck with the build.

I'm interested in how it turns out either way.

You've actually talked to Matt or anyone at DIY instead of the email ping pong? Really?

I second that!!!

53170 remy 10si works but you have to fabricate a bracket. Not much else is bolt on other than the 14592's (again remy part #) Some guys use the 280zx hitachi units. (not 1 wire) but only requires 1 key switch activation wire with a diode, and a battery + wire. Jump the sense to the battery stud, i run it on both my Z's 14592 remy units and barely tax it running an electric pump, lights, fan, fuel injection. Be careful with true 1 wire setups if you run an AGM battery. I run many on the bench every week new out of the box that charge at 15.1 and higher initially when they activate and hang there for a good 3 minutes sometimes (both china and domestic remans). Its just the way many of the regulators work on those 1 wire units. That voltage will cook an AGM battery in no time at all, and also will cause a lead acid lots of times to release fluid due to bubbling so much during the initial activation/replenish cycle after starting especially on towards end of cycle batteries. Food for thought. AGM's don't like anything over 14.6

I had to post a video so you knew it happened. Billy i've got those MS2 daughtercards in a box, just haven't shipped them yet but I will probably by the end of the week.

It was an 82 distributor with stock wheel. I replaced it with the DIY trigger optical wheel and it works great.

I sure hope so. This thing is SICK now. Love it. Runs smooth as a car you'd buy on a lot. Started right up this morning without touching the pedal. Warmed up nice and drove to work. I'm amazed. I knew these MS boxes could run this way. No jitter not a stumble one. Ready to enjoy the summer now.

I can put an end to a 5 month long thread. This car is now as smooth as a normal vehicle. Starts great, Idles great. It pulls hard in all RPM ranges and totally rips on top end. We put in the high impedence injectors. Still had a miss. So I put in the DIY trigger wheel. Set it to a fixed 20 degrees and tuned my VE's. Another key thing was getting a giga-wire brand usb to serial adapter. It stays online all the time. Car runs smooth from low grumpy lugs WOT all the way up WOT pulls. I'm blown away how good it runs and needless to say am VERY relieved. It had to be the spark timing/ trigger angles. I emphasize trigger angles because it really came down to that trigger wheel and timing. Very happy I can focus on creature comforts and maintenance for awhile now. Thanks for everyone's input and help.