pparaska

Spicer, Dana, NEAPCO. All the same company as far as I can tell. The NEAPCO and Spicer name seems to be interchangable for these flange yokes. The page to look up flange yokes is: http://www2.dana.com/expert/wc.dll?DSD~dedsec~2~2~ Infortunately, it seems I can't find the 2-2-899-1, the 2-2-1819 or the 2-2-1899 there, only the 2-2-899 The part numbers you list are all different. And the correct part for the JTR part is 2-2-899-1 The -1 is important as it means a larger u-joint than the 2-2-899, which is a 1210 series joint.

The 1/2" spacers between the frame rails and the cross member do a few things: - Drops the engine closer to the ground, relative to the body, which is held up by the tires, struts and springs - Therefore, it increases the clearance above the distributor, so that the hood latch bracket will work. - It also increases room for the transmission to fit in the tunnel (not sure if this is actually a problem that needed a fix). - Changes the front u-joint angle on the driveshaft, usually in the wrong direction, from where it would be without the spacers. The last reason is what drove me to do without the spacers. To get my driveshaft u-joint angles close to each other, have the transmission up high enough in the tunnel to not be the lowest point, and have smaller driveshaft u-joint angles (always better until you get very close to no angle), I didn't use the spacers. Check out my "driveline mods" page on my site for details.

I think there's paint there, but the steel has a very light zinc coat on it. Too light - it gets eaten up by moisture very easily.

Duh is right. You'd think these "performance" mag writers would know more. As a knowledgeable engine builder said to me lately: "heads for power, tune with the cam". This guy is saying to me what a few others are saying, and it's a bit the opposite of the "standard" belief is: "Go with the best flowing heads you can, and don't worry too much about the port volume. Tune the power band with the cam. The port volume just adds to the intake runner volume." I'd love to hear more on this - maybe a separate topic?

Looks good. That rust is not bad at all. I used the propane torch to heat the heavy stuff up and then scrape. I just went over the residue with a rag with mineral spirits on it. A rotisserie makes it so much easier!

Double Pumper Holley Actually, if you can swing the bucks, an HP series DP is really nice. Check this out: http://www.hybridz.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=21;t=000054

Ron Ruschman, in the IZCC email list is doing this presently. He's having the engine mount towers on the stock crossmember cut down to lower the engine. He's using OE Mopar mounts. He's registered on HybridZ as "rock". His email is: rock52@uswest.net

Sorry it took so long. I just confirmed that the rear crossmember bolt is very close to 20" from the vertical portion of the firewall on my 73 240Z.

One thing I've found while playing with Desktop Dyno 2000 (and no, I don't believe everything the computer tells me) is that better flowing heads that flow better will raise the hp and the rpm at which it peaks. This is true if everything else in the engine is the same, including the cam.

Rears: I have Carerra coilover kits. Not sure what the threaded tube length is, but it doesn't matter. What really drives where you put the tube is the rim width and backspacig, as well as the "shape" of the tire sidewall. On my 17" wheels, I made sure the bottom of the threaded tube was just above the rim lip as this area is really close on my car. I measured that to be 9" above where the forging and the strut tube meet on the strut. I had to actually shorten my threaded sleeves to make them fit. The top of the threaded sleeve is right at the top of the strut tube. Front. I measured 6-1/8" from the bottom of the threaded tub to the place where the strut tube and forging meet. Hope that helps!

grumpyvette - good point on the parts selection issue. I continue to TRY to do this right, but I usually mess up something. One thing that the newer heads seem to do better at is low and mid lift flow. That is even more important for lower lift cams. More area under the flow curve is more power.

I'm with you guys. Rick, you sound like how I describe the new Z. It has grown on me a bit. I've gone from thinking it was the ugliest sports car on the road to it's not THAT ugly - but still ugly. After there are more sitting in dealer lots (instead of being sold before they arrive), a local V8Z buddy and I are planning to drive up to a dealer one Saturday afternoon in our V8Z's and see which cars garner more attention. Anyone want to take any bets?

Depending on your build, what's been done to the camel humps, displacement, you could gain from 30-70 (or more?) HP with good AL heads. AFR, Pro Top Line, Canfield, TFS, etc. It's not just for weight savings! And you can usually add a 0.5:1 or even 1.0:1 to your compression ratio as well if you use AL heads.

Mike, I've thought about the same issue. Then I plugged the numbers for ported 461s and new AFR 195s into DD2000 and with even mild cams, etc., you see the 40-60hp on even a 327. Personally, I love the flow numbers you see for the AFRs. If you can believe them and the tests that Chevy High Performance mag had done, they are quite impressive. But $1250+ is alot of cash. I'm now also considering Canfield 200s (the 220s take offset rockers and I don't want to go there) and also Pro Top Line 200s.

I love mine, but I want MORE POWER! (Well, there are an extra 75 cubic inches in the works right now!) I had mine parked in front of a speed shop in a strip mall today. Some guy comes in the store and asks about the car. He liked it so much and talked about it so much I thought he was going to have a heart attack! On the way home, I just had to test out the performance with the new HEI rotor. Wow, at least 25 hp was found! Yeah, I love it!

I actually asked about how to get a recent catalog at a Radio Shack the other day. The dude at the counter said they won't be printing them any more. They are obsolete before they are printed anyway, and the website is more accurate.

I guess that's why I'm moving to a 406 SBC

Russ240Z, Nice score! It's pretty simple to check. Lock one output shaft from turning. On the other output shaft, find a find a way to make a plate or something to slip over the 280Z axle that slips in the R200, and cut a 1/2" square hole in it (to take the torque wrench's 1/2" sqaure drive) or weld a nut to the center of it. Torque away until it turns, relative to the locked side axle.

Mike, very sorry to hear he's not well. I'm praying for a quick and full recovery. Your dad reminds me so much of my own. I thought you were talking about my dad for a minute. Therefore, I believe I know just how you feel about him. BTW, I had to grab the tissue box when I was reading that - you have a way of doing that, you know. Please give me a call if you want to talk - or want me to come by. Hang in there, bud.

I agree with Jeff, if you take change the bearings, it'll probably hose the placement of the carrier side to side, mess up the back lash, and cause whine. $200 to go through one is not bad.

To get my Tremec in, I cut the mounting ears off the 1/2" high u-shaped support that's welded in the tunnel. Same thing you have to do with most of the V8 swaps. The Tremec is pretty big too.

Mike, I did you one better. I just deleted the offending post. We are playing hardball here 240_XTREME. That kind of post (you know what I mean) isn't allowed. Try it again and you're gone.

Check out: http://www.hybridz.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=002322#000000 which references this HUGE thread: http://www.hybridz.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=001259 The only other advantage (that I can recall) to the Scarab position is that the engine is up further, pulling the oilpan away from the road. There HAVE been incidents where the 7.5" OE depth oilpan has been smacked or ripped open on JTR conversions. I tried to get around that with a 7" deep Corvette pan (now NLA at Chevy). Another alternative is a 6.5" deep Canton road race pan. Hooker Headers still makes the mounts and headers to do the Scarab position swap. But the JTR mounts are not much if any more $$.`

Yes, as long as it's not the Viscous LSD out of the all white SS 300ZX.

That's a few miles, but if it's good (doesn't need clutch plates, mechanically in good shape), that's a steal. It should have 25-35 lbft of break away torque, axle to axle.