Chemicalblue

WEEEEeeeeee all done Tnx

how did u fix it?

Im hoping that this is the right place for this post. I have 79zx and Im trying to find the correct settings for the original tacho in the dash. For whatever reason Im getting no needle movement on all the different settings I have applied. Here are the choices Output state: Inverted or Normal ___ Tacho Duty 0-100 ___ Tacho pulses per rev. ___ These are the settings for the Haltech output to drive the Tacho, I have it hooked up to the blue wire that goes directly to the tacho. Any help or advise would be greatly appriciated.

First car my Dad bought me when I was 16, he said the reason he chose this car was because it was the only one that would do donuts. Ive poured every paycheck into it ever since and Im now 30.

Tnx thats pertty cool info

Thanks so much Ron! I got it running with the varification of the 1 and 6 cylinder timing trick. I found out alot of info on how to set the trigger wheel up and the home window size was very critical. Now Im off to start looking at how to add fuel tables and what that whole thing is about. Its so funny I ended up with one of the nicest ecu set ups on the market (e11 and lc1) and I have no clue what im doing. Should be fun! Tnx again Ron Tommy

What does it take to index a plug? Do you just add washers?

Ngk

Why is the is the home window setting on 9 if there is only six windows(1 unique)? From what Ive read the shaft spins the dizzy at half speed so the optical sensor will only see 6 windows per complete engine rotation(720 deg) right?

Tnx man, I will give that a try. Does anyone else see anything wrong with the set up?

Man I hope so, at this point Im starting to think the car might be setting there for a long time. Not to mention the frustration.

Well now the coil issue is resolved 20a fuse for 6 ls1 coils pulling 5a a piece = does not work. hehe So now the issue is proper set up in the ECU Im using a 300zx(z31) trigger wheel in a l28et dizzy. Ive gone through many diffrent settings but nothing seems to work to actually get the thing fired up. Just some rather large Fireballs At the moment the settings are Cylinder 1 angle btdc 0 Cylinder 2 angle btdc 480 Cylinder 3 angle btdc 240 Cylinder 4 angle btdc 600 Cylinder 5 angle btdc 120 Cylinder 6 angle btdc 360 Firing order 153624 Trigger sensor type: hall effect Home Sensor type: hall effect Trigger signal edge: rising Home signal edge: rising Trigger signal pull up: on Type of trigger system: Nissan type 1 Spark mode: Direct Fire lock timing btdc: 20 deg Trigger angle btdc: 70 deg Tooth offset: 1 Nissan Home window: 9 Ignition spark edge: rising Dwell mode: constant charge Constant charge time: 4ms Spark break time: 600 us So Ive checked the dizzy shaft several times and its right. But still It wont fire correctly, the spark is very erratic. Im getting a RPM and good Home/Trigger signals. Anyone got any ideas?

Dude, I dont know what kind of asses you guy are checkin out. If that was an ass it would be the most hammered lookin ass ever. Ps I allways thought it was a knee "no homo"

The answere is 5 amps a pc.

Is a 20 amp fuse enough to supply 6 Ls1 coil packs?

It fired today for the first time in 6 mo. Good times! So saying that i need to put this question out there. Is a 20amp fuse enough to run 6 LS1 coil packs? The engine will fire for about 20 sec. and then it blows. I don think its a short because it takes a bit to blow. Anyone have any thoughts?

There has to be someone with a haltech that wants to help. If you need some begging to pursuade any help send me a PM

Someone help a brother out

Nice job, Id like to add that to my "79" Sports Car.

Does anyony have a base map that I can use to get my car started? Haltech e6 might work. Im running a e11 550cc inj 300zx trigger wheel 6 ls1 coil packs

Lol!!!!

There is a thread or sticky that touches on the major details on swaps ect.... I just put 14mm GM 550cc on my set up, I bought a pallnet fuel rail and the injectors were $65 a pc. I had to modify the injectors a slight bit to get them to go in but it was really easy, probably took about 10 min (every injector different). I was able to use the seal kit for 14mm from pallnet as well (square seals for the bottom just like stock) . I also had to buy 25c ea E clips (Ace Hardware) to keep the injectors from going to far into the rail. Just order your rail way in advance and dont get your hopes up on it being shipped until he gives you a tracking #, even if he says he did. lol I can post pics if it will help.

I thought the silver looking ceramic coating was for repelling/expelling heat and the black ceramic coating was for heat retention. Are they done inside and out? I had my intake mani done in silver and exhaust in the black and I noticed a big difference.

I would like one......

Ya , like jeffer said small dremel. I’ve use a cut off wheel to carve a slot for a flat head screw driver. Soak it for a while in some good penetrating oil and 9 times out of 10 it comes out pretty quick. Good luck!