Chemicalblue

WTF....Who the hell keeps doing this and why are they not letting user know what the problem is???????? Administrators are supposed to help out. Ive asked several questions about this with no reply.

Im currently switching my set up to a Haltech e11 and I have a few Qs about injectors. Here's the issue, I was running 225cc RC injectors (which are really nice) but now they are too small. I need to be running 550cc injectors but Im having trouble finding alot of info on "Drop in Injectors" and I would rather not pay the high price of the RCs again if I dont have to. I did several searches and It looks like someone tried to make a sticky about this but never finished putting it all together. I have a fuel rail with barbs on it, supplied by a 5/16 line. Stock motor. Modified intake and exhaust manifolds (cleaned up and ported w/ mild polish internals). Running a T3/T4 BB 57 trim Turbonetics turbo. External wastegate. 1 very efficient intercooler. I think that the 550 cc injectors should be plenty for a 350-400hp goal. Should I run high impedance or low and what the hell is the difference? What are the best "Drop in Injectors" for the money? Tnx in advance for any help.

CongratZ, Im still tring to find parts for mine. Cant wait to see how it runs at the next meet... So how is it set up, did you go coil packs? CAS?

Does anyone know the Gm part # for the TPS sensor that Haltech offers? Ive been searching for a few hrs. with no luck. There are references all over about a $20-$49 TPS purchased at a local parts store but no #.

I was wondering if anyone knows how much I should be paying for ls1 coil packs. Ive searched with no luck and the web isnt very helpful either.

My wife got me a Haltech E11v2, she hid it from me for a month in my garage! Yes, she is the best!

Alamo Autosports in Arlington 860 4300. They can build what ever you want as long as you have the cash to do it...

I cant believe everyone missed this. Its obviously the most unique and highly modified hybrid z we have ever seen!

Sup yo, Missed u at the last meeting. We got that cold weather rollin in, u know what that means! HAPPY TURBO TIME!!!!

We we at Nmac for the convention here in TX a few wks ago. They showed a 300zxTT comercial that was only aired once. It showed a 300 beating a jet after the boost kicked in , It was very funny.

PH# is 817 860-4300 Tell them you found there # on Hybrid z for z club member discount!

Are you going to the meet next month? I would like to see how much diffrence it made. It sounds like its better than the honda motor swap that I was thinking about on my zx. Tommy

All z' s 817 483 0383; Its an all z junk yard.

My 79 2+2 gl has one on the drivers side. It just makes rolling up or down the window a one touch process. It actually common in the Zs around dfw.

Modern motorsport has anything you need or they can make it.

Thanks alot for your time, so often this site offers nothing but "do a search" replys. Yes Im sure that its a RD, Ive been in contact with them all this past week tring to get a replacement. The quote for the custom setup was again $800 @ 6 wk delivery time. With the international Z event comming to DFW I had no more time to wait for RD to help me out. I spoke with them about the epoxy I found when trying to have the unit repaired, their reply was "we stopped doing that 3 years ago". I asked how they could tell a customer they were getting a alll aluminum radiator and really send a unit that the side tanks were glued on and there reply was "we thought it made a better product at the time". They were not willing to help with a price reduction or a good delivery time, so its sad to say they lost a customer. Ive got 2 more club members that the same thing has happend to, so we have decided to take the $800 pos to the event to show others what to watch out for. I cant speak for all RDs stuff or how its made but Im not happy. As for the mounting that helps alot, I thought of using a u shaped channel lined with rubber on the bottom to set the radiator in and bracket like yours on top. Ill post pics of the RD soon Tnx again

Yea you should check and see if they spray painted the inside of the tanks to hide the glue where the core mounts.....

There is one or two picks of the mounts, but not what im looking for.

So are there any aftermarket mounts to ensure that a high $ alum radiator will last a while? Im just finding out that my Ron Davis Radiator was epoxyed together and it has a leak after mabey 100 hrs of drive time. SUC... $800 now trash. Well now they said the new specs call for 100% welds but i need to make sure it is soft mounted. I search around but no luck on the mounting issue, I really need to get the car back on the dyno to set up for the international z show this month. Any help would be nice.

So are there any aftermarket mounts to ensure that a high $ alum radiator will last a while? Im just finding out that my Ron Davis Radiator was epoxyed together and it has a leak after mabey 100 hrs of drive time. SUC... $800 now trash. Well now they said the new specs call for 100% welds but i need to make sure it is soft mounted. I search around but no luck on the mounting issue, I really need to get the car back on the dyno to set up for the international z show this month. Any help would be nice.

how are they bolted in?

Tnx good pics

Im looking for pics of seats installed or not that fit in a 79zx. Im willing to fab brackets but Im having trouble finding any pics. Im having the interior done soon and I would like a seat with a little more side support and updated look. ?

Tnx Mike "crank and it is on the right side of the motor at the 3:00 position" Thats what I was looking for. Im thinking of just removing the cam to let the valvs come up, seems like less work. The front cover is off at this time so access will be easy to fix the crank location. The slack was in the 1-1.5" range and the service manual indicated that the tentioner should be at 0mm when adjusted. So when I started I just moved the guide on the left side over a bit, seemed to fix it. Then the timing issue came up. The only thing that I seem to mess up every time is putting the oil pump/dist in the right location. I usally have to take the oil pump off a few times and mess with it a bit. good times:)

Ok heres the problem. I was hearing a slight noise in the front of the motor so I removed the front cover. I found that the timing chain had alot of play on the slack side. So in my messing around w/ the chain I lost tdc. I lined up all the marks top and bottom and now when I turn the motor its hitting the valves. Its easy to set the cam at tdc but how do i set the bottom end at tdc? In the service manual it just has diagrams to set it with the motor out and taken apart, I really dont have time to tear it all down now. Is there a way to get around this, any help or advise would really be great.