Chemicalblue

I just used 83 turbo shafts and swapped the round adaptors out where the bolt up to the wheel on my vlsd. easy money. What dosent fit?

3-6% depending on the alloy and thickness is the normal amount of shrink. If it comes out a little small, an easy fix is to make a squeeze mold and glue little squares of wood that are the desired thickness on the original pattern and coat it in pattern-material (bondo) and squeeze it again. Then make another test run. If u need actual instuctons let me know. If you end up having to do all that you may consider changing the set up over to an investment casting, the casting cost will go down alot not to mention a glass like finish. In DFW you can get stuff cast for $12-$15 a LB in shell.

Cool , I was going to suggest pep-set with a acetylene smut on the surface, but a good molder can make a pretty fine finish. What do you want for your as-cast parts? Sounds like fun.

Are you going to make this a production pattern or just a test plate? What media are you using for a mold and core?

Those seats are really nice. Are they at the same height as the orig. seats? Whats the cost for a set?

Id check all your piping hoses etc.... I could be something really simple..

Well its been a while since I replied about this, but there is an easy fix. This applies to selling and want ads: Check back everyday after you place an ad when it marks sold or no longer wanted just un-mark it. For whatever reason it fixes the issue and it will stay up. Have Fun

Cool water pump set up! How did you set up the bracket and adapt the pully. looks great.

Hey Ron, I ended up going with the stock ls1 coils. Ive purchased everything (Haltech e11, sensors, lc1 innovate, etc..) from a local shop and thats what they suggested. Not as easy to mount as your set up though, but still looks sick. I'll post picks soon as Im back on my feet (back surgery on monday 12th), Thats sounds like a great idea on routing those heater lines. I was thinking about cutting the flange off the inlet and rotating it 90deg. to the left and rewelding but your set up seams cleaner and easier. Again KILLER CAR!!!! U DA MAN TNX Tommy

THE Z LOOKS FANTASTIC!!! Im currently building a coil set up similar to yours, do you have any pics of how you ran the water pump inlet/ head return line with that set up? Tnx Tommy

LOL! What the hell was in that thing, and how the hell did it handle like that?

Dump the clutch! SHOW IT WHO'S BOSS!!! lol

I added 2-10"s and 2-12"s with all the amps etc. and it took a half a second off my 1/4 mi. time. Everyone was telling me "its gona slow you down" over and over untill we hit the track. Before the install I would spin half way down the track, I guess that little extra weight really helped. Supras weigh 3500-4000 and they dont have many issues with being slow. Post pics when its done, looks like a good start.

Chemicalblue is my Dj name. My band mate eGokilla and I were stoned one night when we came up with that and our band name "Super Massive". Wow I think that was too honest......

I was wondering if I could get some advise on wiring up my haltech? This sound really stupid but its my first time doing this, well the Q is: the wire loom has signal wires going to the injectos and the coil packs in groups, the groups only containing one power wire. All the injectors and coil pack obviously need power from the one lead in each group. Should I pig tail after pig tail to connect them all or is there a better or more proper way of splicing the power wires to the proper locations? I want this to look really clean so I didnt think a bunch of butt splices was the way to go. Tnx for you time.

Tnx Tim, I found a water flow dia. and I think Im going to relocate the return line on the inlet housing. The "T" valve is some type of thermostat valve that bypasses the heater core when cold Im guessing, there is not alot of info on it. Ill post pics when Im done. Tnx again

Hello all, Ive made some good progress with my Haltech install and now I need some advise on the heater hose issue that has developed by makeing a bracket like this for my coil packs http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f380/rontyler/coils.jpg Now from looking at the pic I can see where one line go's but the other is the issue Im having. Do I still need to retain the T valve that is in the factory line? The flow of the heater core system seems to be in a open loop, how does it refresh the hot water in the core this way? I thinking of just making a area on the lower water neck inlet to thread a hose barb to supply the hoses. I just wanted to see if anyone has done this diffrently or set it up a little better. (Btw this is on a 280zxt) Tnx

Tnx alot!

Tnx everyone for the feedback! I have already purchased the packs but Thanks for the great offers. Does anyone know the pinout on the stock version of these packs? I found this but I wanted to make sure it was right tnx again

Look Great! Post more pics...

I had the pleasure of riding with BIG PHIL yesterday during some tunning runs and the car pulls hard! Oh and Im sure there will be a vid as soon as we thaw out here in TX.

All Z's in Fort Worth 817 483 0383, there is no web site yet but its been around for a long time.

They are getting marked Sold and not by me? I send you the link soon

Tnx. I was begining to think Super Dan was a bot.