Cal Poly Zmanaustin

Raff, 11.7 in the quarter. I think Stony did low 11's on the stock turbos at closer to 15psi.

Yes, it will fit. The stock twins are probably good up to ~400rwp. I have the stock twins on mine and I am at 360rwp at 12psi. There is a wealth of information once you familarize yourself with the search function. Best of luck.

Silver is by far the most popular color. The other original colors like the greens, yellow and blue if not faded and oxidized are great too. So many people hate the old colors because the cars are beat up and the paint badly faded. When I first saw some restorations in the original colors I didn't even recognize the colors because they looked so different than the faded out and oxidized ones driving around you typically see. They looked incredible.

Nice car and welcome back.

Videos are now a must!

All 3 engines will get you to your power goals. I was really looking for a dollar figure, but based on your power goals you would be barely tapping the RB26 at that level. Its expensive and sounds like overkill for your goals. RB25 sounds more in line if you want an RB series. If you want to check out a well thought out example of an RB25 install check out Rob Fuller's car here: http://www.zcargarage.com/gallery.htm and select ZCG RB 240z on the gallery. His SR20DET swap for his 510 is in the gallery too listed under Other. Just select ZCG 510 Turbo. Honestly, for your goals the SR20 sounds like the best package. I know you listed no AC or heater, but if you want those items or better yet want the option later your best route is SR20DET. I am not saying its impossible to have AC with the RB motor just letting you know the setup doesn't lend much in the way of space for it. I know you ruled out the L28ET, but with your power goals its a good bang for the buck. Also, the 7MGTE is a great option for your power goals. Just look at the numbers Clifton is putting up. I believe he said about 350-375rwhp could be achieved on the factory ecu and computor too. Not all of us have unlimited funds on this board so I wanted to point out a few other options you may not have considered. Have you also thought about brakes, suspension and chassis stiffening, etc. to make this package all work properly? There is a lot more to this swap then just the motor swap. Good Luck!

What is your budget and power goals?

You did great... Congrats!

Apparently if you put on the shocks your car instantly gets the body shaved, fresh paint and new wheels too.

got to admit I was kind of rooting for the kid...even though its wrong sometimes its fun to root for the underdog.

I don't know where you are getting your figures but I can assure you the RB is NOT cheaper. There is a reason RB and cheap don't come up much on the search function.

Yep...what he said.

That car maybe worth the plane ride out to buy it and drive it home.

Don't forget its AWD...its about how much power you can get to the ground.

Contact Karim...he is Racer98 on the board. Straight up guy. I have purchased from him along with others on the board.

That's interesting...where were you looking? ebay?

3800lbs is a lot, but the times on that car do not lie. It should be an amazing car.

What I was thinking about was the S15 Sylvia (Nissan 240SX) with the SR20DET and of course the RB series motors for the R32, R33 and R34 Skylines. The R32 in 89 to me was and still is more exciting than the new EVO and STI. Supposedly the S16 is coming but I would put money on a VQ series at maybe 2.5 liters and most likely NA. How cool would it be if it came over with the SR20DET motor? Not going to happen.

That maybe true in the states except for California. That takes care of Fed, but not EPA and CARB. Too bad, we always get the shaft on the best cars here.

Not sure if I am spelling this correctly but its called "E-coding" where all the sheet metal is treated to protect against rust. So the answer to your question is yes there is a huge difference and this process is why.

They do crush them. When I used to work for Toyota in the corporate office the nearby R&D guys had prototype vehicles all the time. All were crushed.

Get another shell and prep for a transer and keep the one you have in driver status until the shell is absolutely as complete as possible. Consider the holidays or take some vacation days to bang out as much as you can.

Stony has already done the coolant head mod and posted the process documented from another site.

Have you considered contacting Karim? He is a member of the board Racer98 and has an excellent track record. I have ordered from him...straight shooter all the way.

For 8PSI though and a 3.54 those are good times.