Cal Poly Zmanaustin

Glad you are okay, but you got very lucky and are the exception not the rule. More often than not in a wreck like yours an injury occurs.

Sometimes the fix is worse than the problem. We put a CO sniffer with a stock 240Z to trace the smell. Turns out about 30% of the problem was the seal on the rear taillights. The rest came from all over underneath the car. Almost impossible to seal. So if you have all your seals properly glued in your car (hatch, door, ect) and the rear taillights are good and sealed you have one task left. Take off everything underneath the car and spray a heavy 3m type sealant all over underneath. This is extremely messy so you want everything off first. This solved the majority of the problem; however, having first seen it in the shop I wouldn't do it to my car.

word on the street is Hitman48 got to them both on Halloween. Woo!

I think you are over analyzing this conversation. Take it at face value. We know you talked to him 3 times and were reluctant to pull the trigger. Money whether intended or not was presented as driving your decision. If his expertise is high then quite frankly you did waste his time. I don't find his response rude or unwarranted. Sounded pretty upfront and direct to me. If he builds his motors like that then I would want mine done that way. Also agree that 300RWHP is well within the limit of an L28ET with stock internals.

Ron, That Mercedes is nice, but if you really want to be true to the guys here you need a license plate frame that reads: "My other car is a 240Z".

Great comment. I Have to echo the comments on crash protection. I made the mistake of driving my 240Z daily for about 4 months 100 miles a day in Socal. Really loved driving it then got it accordian style. Rearended by a car 1000lbs heavier pushing me into a car at least 1000lbs more in front. End of story my frame was bent and car was totaled and I still have the lower back and neck pain to show for it. I got another 240Z and started over but will only drive it on track days, nice days and open road. My Audi A4 is now the DD that serves its purpose well. The S30 has its place and I am very aware of it now.

Way to go Clifton! Looks great.

What you are proposing is very doable. I don't like to have too many welds in such a critical area, but if done properly it should work fine. I opted for a custom pan because I wanted to keep the windage trays.

You might find this helpful... http://myweb.westnet.com.au/mikeval/PDF/website%20part5%20Fit%20RB20%20sump.pdf I will give you a few ideas this weekend too.

Wow! Sounds very wild. You should try making the next race with the new goodies fair by lining up towing say a 75ft yacht!

his user name is... markrolston@mac.com

Now that is funny.

Your wrong, but I may be tired and have lead you down the wrong path not being as clear as I could've been. This has nothing to do with power. I never said I couldn't get as much power as the other guys. Why would you assume that my car isn't in a good tuned state? Not trying to be confrontational here just letting you know that the message you interpreted was not the message I intended which is probably my fault. Let me try to explain this differently. I have a 7 month old son. I do enjoy working on my car, but my time is so much more limited now that things are different. My car is already not stock. I am putting out about 360WHP at 12psi. I plan on upgrading again much further. My options are quite simple. Upgrade turbos, injectors and cam and retune SDS (option A) or Mirror my friends maps on the stock modded system (option . Option A: I retune on my own when I have time (which I have none) or pay someone to tune it for me since I don't have the time. Option B: Mirror my friends setups and use their maps and be done with zero out of pocket. The car is going to be disassembled either way and the wiring of either is cake. Either way my car will be in tune and run great. Its just a matter of what is easier given who I know and what they are sharing as well as my limited time constraints. I was just feeling out if someone wanted to trade to see if I could go this route as an option.

I am plenty happy with it and mine is tuned for what I have. There are two guys I race and tune with and they both have the stock stuff. When I upgrade I will have to retune. Since they have forged ahead I can save a lot in the way of tuning and expertise if I mirror what they have. If they had SDS and I was stock I would want SDS to mirror them. Once I disconnect everything a basic rewire would be cake and I would make it up in hours of tuning later. That is what I meant by my resources local have the stock stuff.

Chrism, I like it...very clever.

Yes, going back to stock.

Hey Guys, I was curious if anyone would like to upgrade to SDS EM-4F V16 that has all the stock R33 stuff: Harness,ECU,Ignitor, Coils, ect... I am pulling my motor for upgrades and my local resources are using the stock stuff so if I can trade now when everthing is disconnected it would make sense.

Clifton has a great example of this motor swap. Another important consideration is whether you want AC or not. The 7mgte has a great location for AC.

310WHP@12PSI on a Mustang Dyno I would agree with you. There really isn't much of a substitute for Dyno tuning, but the wideband and data logging is good for fine tuning cruising and getting the map closer for using closed loop and stoich.

You may want to order the chip for $85 and upgrade to version 16. That's what I did and I run SDS EM-4F on my RB26 in my 240Z with a wideband for datalogging. It's doing everything for me and its very easy to use. I was worried about the data logging too, but they have addressed it and added it to their existing systems. I think most of the programs work pretty well its just a matter of your comfort level with them. SDS has excellent customer support that has been a blessing. Good Luck, Mark

Wasn't there a real photo of a shark eating a seal after it was nursed back to health by Greenpeace? Greenpeace literally tossed it into the ocean where upon a shark jumped out and ate it.

Another option you can use is to bore out 280Z rear housing to accept Z31 stub axles then use the Z31 adaptor flange for the Z31 half shafts. You would need to shorten the half shafts also. Very strong and will bolt together nicely. This is the route I went and it seems to work well.

That just isn't true...look at Nick Hogan. Humm, oh yeah he trashed daddy's Supra at the ripe age of 17. Go figure. Case in point. You got it right. When I was 18 I got pulled over 20 times in one year and two tickets. Nine times out of 10 it was because I was in a nice sports car (my old 260Z) and it was late or I was near a party or local bar. Wrong place at the wrong time and under 25 you are a sure bet for profiling. I don't blame them a bit either simply because most kids behind a wheel of a modded car can't handle it.

I've dealt with Karim as well. Awesome guy and straight shooter.