1 fast z

The trans is tight, not the adapter. Also, atleast with my RHD car, the clutch slave cylinder will NOT reache where it needs to go on the Z 32 trans, what are you guys using for a longer line?

I guess if alot of Z car guys are heading to the pavs this weekend, I can get my Twin Turbo car out there, finishing up the Z32 swap now.

I installed a Z32 adapter tonight. I will say this, it is a PAIN to install, it is SOOO tight, and so much heavier than a 280 trans, or even a KA trans. It does need ALOT trimed off of the crossmember mounts.

4.25 is NOT a z car pattern.

http://www.wheelreplicas.com/scwheels.html 4 lug http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Black-Saleen-Mustang-SC-wheels-17x8-17x10-Dish-4lug_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ43957QQihZ002QQitemZ120224246744QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Yea, what makes people think its a terrible suspension. Like johnc says, its how a car is setup. Ive seen prepared z cars run circles around cars with so called "better suspension". Its all how its prepared. For the money you would spend on swaping, you could have a guy like John setup your car for you, and come out on top.

HAHA, yea they drag radials were wet when I pulled in the shop, so I had to "clean them off" Plus the shop guys, love it when the shop is filled with rubber smoke! Yea for only 571 shipped to my door for all 4 wheels with this sorta lip, and offset, you cant beat that price IMHO. I only paid 260 for BOTH R1 tires as well, not too shabby.

Here are the 17x10 wheels mounted with some 315/35/17 BFG G Force R1 Tires. They actually do clear standard ZG flares, once I install my coilovers. I have about 1.5" I can suck the tire in, and the flares are only lacking by .75", so should be perfect. The wheels are only 20 lbs a piece for the 10 inch wide ones. Pictured is the 10" wheels, the fronts are not pictured yet. These "should" get my car to hook a little better, and since My clutch came apart today, seems like good timing to install the flares. COMPARISON of 245/45 next to the 315/35

Stock cams are also off. If you look, there is NO balence marks on L series cams, that means they are not balenced.

I wanted a more stable car at HIGH speeds. This car might go to boniville, for a speed run.

Yep sure did, they were off a fair amount, they would of worked, but when you have a balencer, why not eh?

I have 3" intakes which is really overkill for the size of the compressor, and I want cool fresh air, not heated up air coming up front the engine bay to the hood, and then to the air cleaners. They are all manderal bends, so no kinks, etc. The next dyno run, I will try it with and without the tubes so I can see if there is a difference.

Yea that is how S30s are. I measured the caster yesterday, and it was 3 pos on the RF, and 2 pos on the LF. Yea my SAS 4runner also has a 1uzfe (ls400 motor)

There are not any pics of the drivers side wheel.

I got the twin cam, twin turbo setup back on the road this weekend. Havent got any vids yet, because the clutch is slipping bad in second and third gear with the new setup. Hope to get back to the dyno "soon". One of the biggest changes, was I remounted the front turbo, so it sits about 3 inches BELOW the hood line so I can run a stock hood now. I also upgraded to TWO To4E turbos, with a V trim wheel which flows 51 lb/hour and the other turbos I had were 32 lb/hour on the compressor side. The Turbine is a stage three wheel. I also upgraded cams as well as alot of port work.

I got the twin cam, twin turbo setup back on the road this weekend. Havent got any vids yet, because the clutch is slipping bad in second and third gear with the new setup. Hope to get back to the dyno "soon". One of the biggest changes, was I remounted the front turbo, so it sits about 3 inches BELOW the hood line so I can run a stock hood now. I also upgraded to TWO To4E turbos, with a V trim wheel which flows 51 lb/hour and the other turbos I had were 32 lb/hour on the compressor side. The Turbine is a stage three wheel. I also upgraded cams as well as alot of port work.

Dynamicly, just like a crank is balenced, atleast an INLINE crank, V cranks have to have bob weights.

LOTS of top end guys do it, cams are never right, out of the box, just like anything else. MUCH more important IMHO than balencing rocker arms, When I balencend mine before, they are pretty far off. At 8k rpm, it can be really bad, just like a crank. Many people over look the situation.

Did you balence the camshaft also? THat would have a major effect on balence, as the cams are far from perfect, I would balence the cam.

Got the car back on the road today. Boost comes on earliar than I would of though. I get 12 lbs at 4500ish in second gear, not too shabby for the size of turbos. At 7 PSI it has the same power the car had before at 12-13 PSI. I really need to change the clutch disk, to the new 6 puck I have, it wont hold 10 PSI in thrid gear anymore. My alternator stopped working this evening, so I couldnt get any vids of it driving. The cams, port work, and turbos definitly made a big difference. It breaks the 245 drag radials at 18 psi loose at 10 lbs in second gear with an LSD. I bought a set of R1 BFG's today that are 315/35/17 today, that should get me to hook a little better, atleast thats the plan.

Motor sees 8k often, almost everyday. Here is a vid

Specs: 89mm bore 83mm stroke HIGHLY ported P90, shaved .110" DIRECT flat top pistons, with .022" Piston to Head clearence Megasquirt for fuel only Had a 270 duration with .470 lift cam, but now a .590" with 286 duration. Pistons weigh 310 grams 12-1 compression Custom ITB intake, blah, blah, blah

For the record I run 12-1 on 91 octane with 36 degrees full timing.

Ideal NA motor, for our heads is a DIRECT flat top, no dish, for perfect burn travel, with .022" piston to head clearence with ofcourse a P or M series head. For Turbo motors, you NEED to ONLY have the dish as a MIRROR of the combustion chambers. I build the motors, bore, etc. then I stick EACH piston up to a P series head that has prussion blue on it, and bump each piston to the head while assembled with NO head gasket. This then gives the exact outline of the chamber, and I then cut INSIDE that area, to make sure there are no trapped areas (such as a stock dish piston on a P90 head). I ordered my last set of pistons to be 9/16" thick domes, with a direct flat top so I can machine the correct dish to get my 8.25-1 compresson ratio, and reveresed imaged the chamber on EACH piston independently and cut accordingly. I then go on the inside and lighten up the uncut areas to .200" thick. NO chamber is the same, this is a casting, thats why each piston needs to be fitted to each chamber.

Pics of the assembled head. Ignore my messy work bench, haha.