1 fast z

EDIS is about 100.00 for everythng you would need. It is also availible in any town you might be passing throuh for extra parts. Your RB sensor on the other hand is not.

Your crank is balenced from the factory with a certain level of quality controll. We have our own balencer in our shop, and every L series crank I have checked as almost been dead on, even on the most sensative settings.

Have you ever looked at alot of V8 engines, as far as wrist pin to connecting rod location goes? ALOT of them are not centered. Think about the forces involved, no .020" is not going to effect any pre-mature piston, rod, bearing or ring wear. My dad has been building monstor motors with this thinking for over 40 years, and my grandfather longer than that (I come from line of engine builders ). I run 89mm bores, I can go larger, but you dont want any thinner than .090" cylinder bores in a NA motor, and can be up to .070" in SMALL spots, as the cores are not smooth on the inside anymore, after all, people do have not run antifreeze for how ever many years. On a boosted engine, I try to keep cylinder wall thickness at .125" and down to .110" in small spots.

Yea I would like to take a simple box plentum, itb setup, with 1.5" id runners, strait, etc. and compare on the dyno in the same hour as your super duper intake. THEN we can really see how much is real world.

I am glad someone else puts those words out there, as I have told people in the past. Just like with my projects, things are always more complicated than they seem to the average joe. Like you stated, with over 3k, and no profit tacked on, theres no one that would pay for this. Just in my valve cover for my Twin cam setup, the material was over 650.00 for RAW material. Sure if I didnt have a CNC in my shop, I would of fabbed one up out of sheet metal for 20.00 in material. As well as with my twin cam setup, people think I just ran a couple of heads through an ole band saw, grabbed a couple of long bolts, and tied it all togther! Ha! There was more time measuring, grinding, surfacing, etc, then most people put in ENTIRE engine builds. So To sum up, with a project as involved as MONZTERS, he has ALOT of time and efforts racked up into this, more than most people can even think about. We do this for the fun, and trying to optimize these "OLD" engines. He didnt do it to make a profit, he did it because he is smart enough to, and he can. I give him kudos for that. I think I may need to model up something simular with lots of CFD work on my twin cam setup. GREAT WORK.

Also for reference, My 24 valve engine I have run to about 9k before, that is a full 3.1 liter engine as well. Although I have a "bit" more flow than your regular ole L series to support that RPM range. This is with a VO7 stock crankshaft by the way.

I run a 12-1 compression 89mm bore, 83mm stroke, .590" lift and 288 duration on the street, as my daily driver (while the Twin turbo car is down anyways). I run it to 8K daily, and it makes power to 7500 or so. Car runs HIGH 12.50's in the 1/4 mi, in a 2680lb 280z on pump gas. Like many others have said now, a 3.0 that revs to 7k, compared to a smaller motor that revs to 9300 with all the other "same" components, as far as cam, compression, head flow etc. the Stroker will always be faster, plain and simple.

Ka Heads. Yea, is it doable by someone else? Sure, especially since you have alot of info and pictures here on how to do it. Get ready to do ALOT of RandD work, as you probaby can figure out, I dont post all of my "secrets" of the build. MACK has been trying to build the setup for a couple years now, and he can tell you it is a hassle. Since the thread is up, I will tell you all what I have done to the project. Turns out that the CAMS broke first, THEN the chain, for the reason that the wall thickness on the cam snounts are TOO thin for cast iron. I based alot of my cam profiling on KA cams, and I wish I would of known it was a known problem of the cams breaking! So now, I have parted off, the ends of the cams, about half way between the first journal, and the first lobe. I then have brazed on a Peice of 4142HT steel, that will now take 50% more side force, with the same geometry being done on the cam snout. I need to re-index the cams, with new dowell pins yet as well. I also am installing 6 new valves, and doing a complete new valve job on ALL 24 valves while I am at it.

An N42 block is much stronger, and a 75-76 block is a high nickel content. You can almost hear the difference by tapping each block with a ball pein hammer. ALL of my big bore builds use N42 blocks. I guess before I ever sonic tested L6 blocks, I thought like everyone else, and thought the F54 was the "siameesed block".

Yes I was on a 7 Week "vacation", but we wont be talking about that here. Yes I sonic test all of my L series blocks. First of all which block are you using. If you are using a F54 block, then dont bore, as they are way thinner than a N42 block. I offset bore my blocks as well, for the increased bore size. I gain about .040" of clyinder wall thickness by compensating for the core shift. F54's are a non siameesed block, and between cylinders 2-3 4-5 5-6 are not tied toghether, and therefore a much weaker block, and the clylinder wall thickness is not as thick either as the N42.

I use Wilwoods with Z31 front hubs. I ended up bolting the 13" rotor to the back of the hub, just like Z31 factory uses. I use a wilwood superlite caliper as well.

I guess I need to get back to the dyno, to see if I can be the highest HP L series ever on Hybridz!

I agree, there have been many questionable words spoken by the admins, which are far out of line. But when its "their" site, what can ya do????

Yea you just lost all quench benifits by going to a N42 head. P90 is a high quench design.

I would have to differ on TimZ having the highest HP L series. There are a couple guys with HP levels as high, or higher. JeffP comes to mind with 658 HP.

No I wont be using your cams. I will be sourcing another set hopefully, so I dont have to scavange them out of my complete 26 head I have laying around. I suspect one link broke first, as I could not keep the adjustment tight enough on the upper chain, it just kept getting loser.

What is different between the R32/33 and 34 cams? Does anyone know?

As some of you may or may not know, I had total upper end destruction yesterday with my L series DOHC engine. I snapped an old who knows how many miles upper timing chain. I use RB cams in my DOHC engine, as the spacing for the bearing journal is correct. If anyone has or knows of a set or maybe two sets of cams, I would greatly appreciate any info. PM me, or shoot me an email. I would prefer the 26 cams as I hear they are the best to start out with? Maybe someone can shed some light on this. But I would take a set of 25 cams as well. Does anyone know the differences between the 26 and 25 and 20 cams?

Yea and I cant just jump into it. I have a P79 that I am working on for a guy, complete port, rebuild, etc. Then I have an order for a custom intake manifold as well, that I need to get done. And I only work on the Z car stuff on weekends and nights, as I have to be a manager and supivisor of all of our employees at our shop during the day. So yea, big headache there. I am just really frusterated over the whole sittuation.

What is everyone doing for a speedometer? I suspect just a electric, but say has anyone hooked up an autometer electronic one to a z32 sensor?

Yea all for a freaking 30.00 chain! DAMN. This engine isnt like a regular L series where it only takes 30 minutes to get the head off, etc. Between the solid copper head gasket, stainless orings in the block, speacial head studs, the twin turbos and all the pipes, whats left of the timing system, etc. Not to mention that just to settup the solid lifter, flat tappet cams, that are shim on bucket, takes ALOT of hours to get right.

Well, with some really bad news, I snapped a upper timing chain today, snapped off both snouts of the cams, bent two sets of valves. I have learned my lesson to NOT use junkyard timing chains. I had every intention of changing that old KA chain to a new one, because I never knew how many miles were on it, but now I waited too long. So I will now be taking the head off, and replacing a bunch of crap. Just sucks cause there is ALOT of work in those cams, and it is not like they are everywhere. Yea so a pretty bad day actually. Luckely, it was at an idle, so no block damage was done. I just drove over a thousand miles, racing in another state, etc. And it breaks an eight of a mile from my shop at a stop light!!!!!!

Well, with some really bad news, I snapped a upper timing chain today, snapped off both snouts of the cams, bent two sets of valves. I have learned my lesson to NOT use junkyard timing chains. I had every intention of changing that old KA chain to a new one, because I never knew how many miles were on it, but now I waited too long. So I will now be taking the head off, and replacing a bunch of crap. Just sucks cause there is ALOT of work in those cams, and it is not like they are everywhere. Yea so a pretty bad day actually. Luckely, it was at an idle, so no block damage was done. I just drove over a thousand miles, racing in another state, etc. And it breaks an eight of a mile from my shop at a stop light!!!!!!

False. The angle helps flow. Remember air only flows on the short side of the valve, and the straighter the port to the valve the better.

As long as you NEVER EVER torque ABOVE the max torque spec, you can use as many times as you want. Many people think "hey I can torque my bolts a bit more than it says just for that extra tightening effect" WRONG. NEVER do that, you are going past the designed yeild point of the material. Always use some sort of moly graphite lube as well.