1 fast z

Yea, I have been working my butt off, with a full time job, then building Z car heads, and intake manifolds (280z ones intake ) and working on body work till weeee hours of the morning. I almost hate the month of april because of the msa show and me trying to out do myself.

Ok, I cant find the correct mirrors for a fairlady, and realize I have a later fairlady car, and they differ from the earliar ones. I need to find something that even looks close now that I cant find a real set. does anyone have any suggestions? I have been watching ebay for over a year now as well. I am even willing just to throw something on there, that looks fairly close, because I have now welded up the holes someone welded on the doors when they leagalized the car in 1988. This is on a real fairlady car by the way.

Here are some shots of the progress I have done in the last couple days. The rear quarters are welded, scotch brited, then seam sealed. I had to put in three main patch panels, one on each side of the rockers in front of the rear tires, as shown. I also had to make a panel that goes right behind the right rear tire as well. Previous painter had just slapped bondo in the rust, so that had to go. I wanted to completly strip the whole outside, so I knew that I wasnt going to have any problems later with older paint job and filler issues. I have fixed all the rust though, and its all bright shinny metal now. I also welded up the vent holes right behind the 1/4 windows. I fully welded up all the wholes that were in the rear valence panel and smoothed off the rear bumper. One picture shows the original color that was under the windshield and wasnt sun faded, and thats the color it is going back to. Some pics look like there is alot of filler, but alot of those pics, the filler hasnt been sanded yet. I try to stay under 3/32" thick for filler.

People are usually big talkers untill their check books need to be opened up. It will not be very profitable for a short run. I guess I just know exactly what needs to be done, as I am a machinest, and have actually built a dohc, and even the amount of work I have done was really extensive, and I did not have to deal with any castings.

Anyone know what cage that is? I see it is a bolt together one, and realize it is not nhra or scca legal, but I need something to somewhat protect me against the idiots on the road. Any Ideas?

Well thats why I figured I would ask. So I call up MSA, which is where I got the seal kit from, and sure enough, even though I told them TWO PLUS TWO, they send me a coupe kit. ARGGGGGGGG. I understood that the door seals would be different, but now I am stuck with pretty much nothing that is going to work. Thanks for your help.

YOu guys need to come to reality. No one is going to spend the money that is needed to get castings made, molds made, machining done, etc. If you want a DOHC, go RB. Otherwise, stick to SOHC. 100k for a 5 run order would not be out of line from start to finish. So when 5 people want to shell out 20k a peice for a head, then it will be feasable.

Ok, what is the same and what is different as far as seals go for a 2+2 and a coupe. Is the front and rear windsheild the same seal? Is the hatch seal the same? Obviously door seals, quarter window seals are different. Mainly concerned with hatch seals and widsheild and rear window seals. Thanks.

Way to expensive, for complete billet. You have to be rational. Welding some tubes on an flange, and plentum is so easy, and cheap.

The car is actually setup pretty neutral. I have to play around with spring rates, camber, caster, sway bars, etc. It handles better than my silver car does with four 235/40/17 slicks all the way around it. It doesnt take a whole heck of alot to get a 280 na into the 13's, just tuning, fairly decent build, low elevation, etc. I got my NA 280z down to 12.6 for my stroker build.

Yep, I am not a real fan of them either, but I needed/wanted a wider tire, so I had no options, and I am defintly not installing a flare that I cant unbolt. Just like the body kit on my silver car, I did not mold anything in. Makes it easier to repair and service body parts without having to repaint a whole panel, or whole car for that matter.

I think that looks pretty bad imho. It looks good when it is almost flush.

Your going to have to roll the fenders anyways, would be much better to just roll and tweak what you have now. You dont have near enough tire to use or need flares. Many guys run 275-40-17 tires in the rear with no flares. 245/45/17 you can also run in front with no flares. Just tweak what you have.

Just for reference: Those are your standard flares like MSA sells. 315 wide tires in the rear 245 in the front.

What about the side window glass, the 1/4 glass seal? Anyone know where to get that?

I am having a hard time finding door seals for a 2+2 model. Anyone have any insight on this?

A crossflow head will always yeild more power than a non cross flow, because the cylinder gets purged MUCH better especially on overlap. Area above the valve for atmospher packing is also another big key. A valve does not really flow on the backside at all as well. Just some food for thought.

The strength of 5000 series is not NEAR enough for a controll arm, and you WILL bend it over time. I have tried, many procedures to welding the 70, and 20 series stuff. It always pulls apart under high stress applications, plus cracks.

6061 is fully weldable, and works well. 7075 is under NO circumstance weldable, nor is 2024. I would go billet, but I may be saying that because I have a machine shop .

WIth your "new cad system" you were bragging about the other day. ( hehe) You should just draw something up in a .dxf file for a cheap 2d cnc profile, and get something done out of billet. Should not be two expesive. And although, if you drew me a print of what you wanted, I could make the stuff for you, but if you do a .dxf file you have to create a print to go with it. If you do a parrasolid, iges, solid works file, etc. I can import it in 3d, and you dont have to create a paper print.

If you do use a box, you cannot have any bolts go through the box that do not have a tube on the inside so the box does not collapse. If you have the correct tubes, you should be OK. I would use 7075, for fatigue resistance.

Sounds like poor quality controll to me.

THere is not anything you would find in the yards except possibly a dodge diesal engine.

You could not use a manifold system from a BMW or Merc, because they ARE 2 INCHES TWO SHORT, and spacing is WAY off. If you were to base it on a manifold design, RB would be the ONLY way.

DO NOT wrap headers and manifolds. I have had TERRIBLE luck with it.