johnc

See above.

Don't bother with a rebuilt engine. These L6 engines are very well made from the factory and very few engine rebuilders do a good job with the Nissan L6. Most just make it worse. An untouched, well cared for 100K mile engine is better then most any rebuild. I would just buy used engines off various message boards or junkyards. The L24s are dirt cheap and all your bolt-on stuff will transfer. Focus on the cooling and oiling systems.

A guess: Might be from the big washer behind the nut. If the nut loosens the washer might vibrate or rub against the spindle under lateral loads.

17 x 8.5 with 245/40-17s work well on a 240Z with coil overs.

As BJ posted the 280Z has significant strengthening added to the chassis. I've cut a 280Z shell up and, compared to a 1971 240Z that I cut up earlier, there's double the sheet metal structure inside the "A" pillar, the "C" pillar also has significant reinforcement, there are additional gussets from the "C" pillar to the rear wheel well, thicker sheet metal on the strut towers, additional sheet metal reinforcements in the frame boxes at the TC rod area, additional sheet metal reinforcements at the seat mounts and seat belt mounts, the seat mounts themselves are a lot stronger then the 240Z mounts, the rear bulkhead has additional sheet metal and two additional gussets, the cowl has additional reinforcements, and the front upper frame rails have internal reinforcements and better attachment to the cowl and the firewall.

The only part that should "wear" on a spindle is where the grease seal on the hub turns. Is that the area you're concerned about?

Its also called an O2 sensor and it goes in the exhaust manifold down near the collector or in the exhuast pipe just below the collector. You should see a M18 x 1.5p threaded opening that the sensor screws into.

Remember that the BZ3012, 3013, 3015, and 3016 require machining of the upper shock mount to fit inside the camber plate monoball.

Yes, cut coils (or 1/2 coils). Please search, there's a sticky in the Suspension forum that gives examples on how to calculate the drop from each coil cut based on spring rate.

No need to apologize for any of this. Most of the folks on this site like to figure things out, otherwise why would they got through the pain and frustration of modifying these rusty old cars.

Yes.

Isn't it important in teaching to get the students to think about the problem and come up with a solution? Posting a picture here doesn't "teach" anything. No learning involved, its just "monkey-see, monkey-do." Might as well just put it in a spoon and stick it in your mouth. Again, take the time and look at the areas on your car in the list I posted above and THINK about the loads involved.

RACING MEMO DATE: May 5, 2010 NUMBER: RM 10-07 FROM: Club Racing Board TO: All Participants SUBJECT: Clarification of roll cage front tube specification for IT, SS, SM and T Effective immediately, change GCR 9.4.C.3 to read: 3. Cars competing in Improved Touring, Showroom Stock, Spec Miata, and Touring may extend one tube, from each front down tube, forward to the firewall, bulkhead or wheel well, but not penetrating the fire­wall any panel.

You're starting to get irritating.

Ya really want some cussing and hammering? Try installing the 49 state 280Z replacement pans in a California 280Z that has the factory catalytic converter bulge just past the trans mount. Not only is the replacement pan 3" wider at the bottom then the original pan the OEM seat mounts are also narrower and have the bulge shaped into their inner side. You guys have it easy, stop the whining.

Money's fine. We might have lost another CPU.

Let's leave it at that guys.

Funny! I just shipped shortened struts, shocks, coil overs, springs, etc. to a customer in Norway.

Back in 1978 when I worked at U-Haul, all the trucks had tamper evident and speedo disabling connectors. Once you disconnect either end it won't go back together and a big red light comes on in the gauge cluster. I caught 4 people trying this and they each paid a U-Haul mechanic to reconnect the speedo cable and paid a buttload of money for the rental. Not sure if they still have this but with the electronics available now I bet they have a pretty easy way of spotting this.

Be really, really careful with that. The Internet is a huge echo chamber and one post can spread around and appear to be from many independent sources. I am a perfect example where I posted a specific Nissan 5th gearset to make a poor man's close ratio transmission. The information I had was wrong and I've correct my original posts. Unfortunately many others (who appear authoritative) have posted that information as true and sometimes claiming it as their own. Its still out there, as wrong as when I originally posted it, but every year a couple folks make the mistake.

It would take me a while to search through my pics, upload them, and then post the links. None of this is rocket science and if you look at the areas mentioned and think about the loads involved it should be pretty easy to figure out what should be done. As you can see from NZeder's post there is more then one way to solve these problems.

Ideally the additional tansverse link brace as pictured above would mount between the mustache bar (MB) and the chassis. A .083" wall tube whose ID is greater then the OD of the round ends of the MB, notched to clear the bar itself, one end closed with a hole to slip over the mounting studs would work as the chassis mount. This mount could be welded to the chassis or held in place the the MB mounting itself.

I moved this here. It sounds like a basic engine trouble shooting issue.

From the latest mark Ortiz newsletter:

6. The radiator core support reinforcement is a bar across the top with gussets to the inner fenders. 7. That's a brace from the mustache bar mounts to the outer ends of the horizontal brace going across the back of the diff. 10. You're idea works. 12. ARB means Anti-Roll Bar.