johnc

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/81096-n42n42-long-block

If its a one-time job then a less powerful tool will get you through. If you're going to do a few of these or foresee other uses for a nice air die grinder then its worth spending the money.

The stretched tire look is just that, a look. It is not a performance mod and in fact, reduces the ultimate handling of your car. Wheel width needs to be +/- .5" of actual tread width (not section width) to get the most out of the tire. Anything off those numbers and you're leaving some of the tire's performance on the table. This is true for drifting, autocross, road racing, and driving on the street.

So... is this just a tactic to post a for sale ad without becoming a donating member?

The pictures I have in the 1972 FSM show, in figure RA-25, that grease needs to be packed into the bearings and inside the "distance piece" that goes around the shaft and between the bearing inner races. There's no need to pack grease into the housing.

I have a complete N42/N42 engine sitting in the storage unit behind the shop. The engine spins free. I'm in La Habra and would let the whole thing go for $250.

I don't know if I'd call the setup "junk." Its probably not worth spending the money rebuilding the turbo and sourcing the parts needed to complete the setup, but its not junk. Clean everything up and put it on eBay if you're not going to use it. Might get some money for it.

Meaningless comparison. Its been 18 months and a different shop/dyno. You can't compare the two dyno runs. Right now you've set a new baseline and you must tune from there.

Here's my opinion... 1. Installing a roll bar is PRIMARILY a safety modification. If that's not your main reason for doing this then you're just adding weight and making your car slower - regardless of how much stiffer the chassis becomes. 2. All of the pre-made bolt and weld-in roll bars only get you about 50% (at most) of the chassis stiffness improvement that you can get from a welded in roll bar that attaches to the rear strut tower. 3. Any chassis stiffness improvement is wasted unless you increase your spring rate(s) to take advantage of the increased stiffness. 4. Without increasing chassis stiffness in front of the car, increasing chassis stiffness and spring rate in the rear won't get you as much of a benefit because you can't balance the spring rates front to back.

Never run two prop valves in a braking system.

Realistically you don't need to remove the crossmember unless it gets damaged. For my race cars I usually welded it in place.

Should be OK although if you ever have to remove the crossmember...

Not all ideas are good ones Tony...

Then some dickhead Aussie starts hooning around in his car. Or maybe it was a German.

Shifter hole to ground on a stock 260Z I have in my shop right now is about 22". The E36 model we ran through WinGEO3 was a F Prepared autocross car running 15" slicks and weighing about 2,100 lbs. It came in with about a 19" CG height with a modeled 150lb. driver in the car. 24" might be a high estimate for the 280ZX. My 350Z comes in at about 21" with the same modeled driver in the seat.

Bad link.

Probably about the same. Please remember that the above are guesses based on a model I have of a E36BMW and my 350Z.

If the plan is to come back and fix the area later, I would avoid using POR15 or any other encapsulator. The stuff is a bitch to remove.

From a couple other cars I've modeled, a stock 280ZX CG height would be between 24 and 28" off the ground.

In the context of strut sectioning, those instructions are correct. For your situation you need to do some thinking about ride height, bump travel, etc.

Why send a PM to 80% of the folks who have taken care of this issue?

I wouldn't cut additional holes in the body, that just exposes more internal structure to water. I would heavily wire brush the rusted areas and spray it with a rust converter and then a high zinc primer. It won't stop the rust but it will slow it down a bunch.

Nissan improved the corrosion protection on the S30s as the model years progressed. I don't know at what point in the model run each additional step was added to the assembly process but the 280Zs have a lot better base primer/sealer then the earlier cars.

Yes.

Yup.