johnc

8 lbs. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=135892

Below is a typical inner view of a VLSD. The units rely 100% on the shear strength of the fluid sealed inside the housing. VLSDs tend to work very well on street cars and as the center diff in a 4wd setup. Except for a couple very expensive exceptions they are not as effective in racing. As mentioned above, they tend to heat up under sustained load and then fail to an open diff. Most VLSDs that are street driven are pretty much open diffs by the time the unit hits 75,000 miles.

Check the gland nut to make sure it hasn't loosened. Also, when you first tightened the gland nut down on the shock did the nut bottom on the shock or on the threads in the strut tube? It must bottom on the shock.

I had a W126 (1987 420SEL) that was a great highway car. Drove it to race tracks around the country when I was crewing with an ALMS/Grand Am team. 100mph was all day easy and the cops never gave it a second look. I'm still tempted to get a 1991 350SDL, pull the diesel engine and put a 502 Chevy in the car. I saw one in Georgia that had the 502 in front of a 4L80E trans with the stock Mercedes limited slip diff. It hauled ass!

Post a picture. It might be a factory weld seam.

Late braking turns and putting my truck inside of the car in front. Scared the crap out of a Porsche guy when I did it with my F350. He passed me on 395 near the Walker River and then proceeded to drive slower then we were going originally. He left me alone after I beat him through the corner with the truck about 30 degrees sideways and smoke coming off the rear tires.

My contribution to this thread is that trying to derive the power output of an engine by calculating driveling losses will be off (in my example) by at least 4.5% because of measurement error. That's the closest we can get it. Using my example above and a guess of 15% driveline loss the engine in my car that repeatedly made 325 horsepower on one of the best engine dynos in the country now supposedly makes 330 to 346 horsepower. It didn't. The VE/BMP calcs would show its impossible to hit the 346 horsepower number given the 7,500 rpm limit. But I could post on most any Internet message board that my 294 whp means the car made 350hp and most folks would believe it and say "WOW!"

Let's see: Bell housing bolt patterns are different. Input shaft splines are different. Input shaft length is different. Miata's use a backbone for transmission mounting while the Z uses a trans mount. That's just the stuff off the top of my head.

FYI... the 4.5% number I mentioned above was the variance between chassis dyno runs, not the driveline loss.

Be careful: http://jalopnik.com/5371967/feds-seize-illegal-nissan-skyline-gt+rs-in-cali

Except that KSport shocks suck. Not two shocks have the same valving and the adjusters do nothing. Do a Google search on "ksport dyno" and you'll find dozens of shock dyno graphs showing how silly the valving is. EDIT: here's just one thread of many - http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/k-sport-coilovers/12280/page1/

You never will. HybridZ provides information so you can make your own decision. If you just want someone to tell you what to do, you've come to the wrong place.

The bearing itself (typically a COM10) is rated anywhere from 2,500 (cheap Chinese bearing) to 9,195 (NHBB Astro) for axial load. But the liner will pound out long before the rated load is reached. A spherical bearing used in a camber plate to handle spring loads will usually loosen up and cause problems within a year or two. Ground Control's original design used the spherical bearing to carry spring loads and Jay changed it for the reasons listed above.

From the original post:

Thanks. Glad you like the parts. Good luck. I found I needed one to get the gross hydraulic balance right (balance bar close to centered) and then I used the balance bar for fine tuning.

Now's the time to replace the bearings if they are original. I would press the outer bearing on the axle first and then install it in the hub.

You would use the same solution as I list above.

If its a Koni double the the bottom adjuster is for compression damping. Normally this doesn't get changed much and the 8611 compression adjuster set at 3 off full soft works pretty well for 240Zs in the 2100 to 2400 lb. range. All you have to do is jack the car up, remove one anti-roll bar link, and unbolt the steering arm (two bolts) to get the bottom of the already drilled strut tube. I've adjusted compression on the front shocks in 20 minutes between sessions at a race track.

Uuuhhhh, timing and fuel are separate items. You can have a knock sensor and a crank trigger as input to computer controlled timing on a Weber Carb'd L24 and achieve exactly what you're describing above. Been there, done that - although its so 1980s.

That's true if the R&D work is done for you. Mercedes began work on crumple zones in the late 1940s with their engineer Bela Barenyi obtaining a patent for the concept in 1952. The actual first car with crumple zones was the Mercedes 180 Ponton released in 1953. In addition to weakened front frame rails, it had a crash stabilized floor assembly, collapsing steering column, and engine/driveline mounts that forced the assembly down in the even of a frontal accident. Actual concept to production engineering took an 6 years of work until the complete crumple zone concept was released to the public with the 1959 model 220s. The concept is simple but the actual engineering is very difficult considering you're dealing with three separate masses and their interactions: chassis, engine/drivetrain, and the occupants. This development wasn't cheap but Mercedes did offer the basic engineering to other manufacturers for free - they stated that they would not enforce their patent rights.

IMHO, just to be a dick... Back when I had my race engine built at Sunbelt it was run for many hours on their engine dyno and the horsepower and torque results were consistent within some minuscule percent after all the tuning was done and the engine broken in. That same engine with the same tune in the EMS (sealed and encrypted so i couldn't F if up), same intake, header, etc. gave wheel horsepower numbers from 280 to 294 after corrections. That's a variation of 4.5% compared to the original engine dyno number.

For the SCCA GCR there's no spec for a roll bar. You need to refer to the SCCA Solo2 rule set. It requires:

Try swapping the springs front to back. Also, roll the car around and make sure everything is settled.

There is only one class winning idea for FP: You have to drive better then the Solo2 God, John Thomas. He's won more Solo2 national championships then any other Solo2 competitor. He currently runs a 240Z in FP and just won yet another National Solo2 jacket. Anything else you do is meaningless until you can out drive John. Pretty simple and there's only one person I know who has a chance - driving a BetaMotorsports prepared FP E36 BMW:

An FP S30 running a L24 will have to weigh a minimum of 1,900 lbs (class minimum) and a L28 will have to weigh 2,100 lbs.