johnc

Then you're basically SOL. Sell those wheels and look for some 17 x 9s and run 245s or 255s.

275/60r15

Stop running over dogs? Just a thought...

http://www.popsci.com/scitech/article/2009-09/steel-velcro-not-sneakers

And then there's this one: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=120659

That driveshaft is the same as the Z32TT driveshaft - if my memory serves me right. Driveline angles should be set the same as for a u-jointed halfshaft.

Tool trucks are really tough right now with all the new car dealerships closing.

Should be fine.

Modifying your oiling system to include a good heat exchanger which keeps the oil temps between 220 and 260 on the track will do far more towards protecting your engine. You will also reduce the heat input into the oil with a lower viscocity oil. I saw an average 15 degree drop in oil temps switching from (you guessed it) Mobil 1 15W-50 to 5W-30 on the race engine in the ROD, as measured at Willow Springs and Buttonwillow during the 2003 race season.

I guess something is being lost in the translation here. The discussion about studs was regarding the four studs on the side shaft flange, not the wheel studs on the stub axle.

That would be my suggestion. It will also make sure no air pockets form in the cooler (which is rare but has happened).

Glad you didn't get shot and sorry you didn't get to bust a cap into his smart mouth. Give Buddy a big T-Bone for me.

I called around yesterday and found the last 12 of the factory Nissan D head studs here in the US and the dealer is checking to see if they can order a bunch more for me from Japan. FYI... list price from Nissan on these studs is $6.08 each! Unfortunately these are a unique length (23mm) and the shoulder is 10.5mm.

Yes, I'm aware of that difference between the WRX and WRX STi R180 differentials. That's why I'm building these shafts. They will have a 28mm OD, 27 spline, snap ring shaft welded to a four bolt flange that will allow bolt-up of the stock 240Z halfshafts. The prototypes are getting final machining this weekend then they go to the broacher to get the splines cut. After that they got out for carburizing and then a final inspection. I have not sourced the proper M10 x 1.25p studs new (damn hard to find actually) so I'm going to install some used ones from the dozens or side axles I have on a shelf.

So... you don't want to test these for me Bob? I had you on the list but I can use someone else. Please let me know.

For the transmission Redline MT90 works well. For the diff use Redline 75W-140 GL5 gear oil.

Now you'll see your car for sale on eBay, Craigslist, and by an ex-General from Nigeria.

Time lapse film of the Station fire smoke column. http://www.ireport.com/docs/DOC-322595

Did the same thing with my shop floor when I first moved in 6 years ago. Spent 5 days cleaning (with Tide and Simple Green), etching, drying, and prepping the floor for an industrial epoxy paint. Laid it down like butter and let it dry for a week. A couple weeks later I drove my Z into into the shop after a day of autocrossing and the sticky Hoosier A3s peeled the paint right up in 9" wide strips. I will never, ever paint or epoxy a concrete floor unless its brand new concrete. Even then I'll probably use a stain instead of a paint or epoxy. http://www.concretenetwork.com/stained-concrete/

Traction has more to do with tire compound then tire width. A 225 width drag radial will have more traction then a 335 width Sears Roadhandler whitewall.

Most industrial supply houses (Grainger, McMaster-Carr) sell epoxy based concrete repair stuff. The most important thing for the repair and the later painting is to get the floor clean. Use a good degreaser first (maybe degrease it a couple times) and then acid wash.

If its the same part number, which it appears to be, that's a great price for a pair. I can't buy them myself for that price.

Don't worry, I've bought them all up and will keep the price "fair."

Hell, not me. I'll put on a crappy show so they all leave and then I can switch to Speed and not have to hear the inane comments like, "You only watch racing for the crashes."

Borla's are generally the noisiest mufflers in each class and/or size.