johnc

No, for the reason mentioned above (and others).

I recommended the Hankooks based on the original question and specifically because of the above sentence. The Dunlops and Bridgestones wear quickly. Two customers I have (one running a WRX and another a M3 in STX/STU) report about 6,000 miles of use before they were down to the wear bars. BTW... Over the years I've learned to take magazine tire tests with a grain of salt and just go to events and look at what people who win have on their cars. One result from one test is just one data point.

Exactly! I haven't had any experience with the Koni reds, but Koni makes a good product. If you're not planning on shortening your struts then be careful about running the car too low. You need at least 2" of bump travel at the shock shaft before the suspension gets into the bump stops. The spring rates you're looking will need more roll control then just a 1" from anti-roll bar. I suggest the full ST kit with 1" front and 3/4" rear bar.

350 to 360 is the best I've ever heard for a NA 2.8L.

The SR20DET swap is NOT significantly lighter then a normally aspirated L6. If you move the L6 back about 4" the weight distribution is within 1% of an SR20 install. Please search, this has been covered a number of times.

There are so many questions left open... Please read the FAQs and stickies. The SR20 swap doesn't turn the 240Z into a different car. The same suspension tuning suggestions for an L6, V8, V6, and rotary 240Z are appropriate for your car.

I don't understand how a screen under a carburetor proves that grooves in a cylinder head make more power. Why are we discussing the screen under the carb in this context?

Does anyone care what I might be thinking about right now? Most of the time I don't.

If that's true, your car was wrecked and repaired - poorly.

No. The MR2 has a low yaw inertia and is easier to spin then a 240Z. I've autocrossed both cars. Chassis setup has a greater affect on how a car handles and behaves then weight distribution. You can take any car and with appropriate suspension tuning make it an understeering pig or an oversteering squirrel.

Well, if you read my post I listed Tokico and Koni shocks and Hypercoil springs. And no, I don't make anything for the S130 other then carbon fiber hoods. If you're hell bent on bolt-in parts, you probably need to be on a different forum. HybridZ is not a bolt-in kinda place as evidenced by the work Mull is doing.

Funny. I sell a "bolt-in" kit with Tokico or Koni shocks, Hypercoil springs, and camber plates. I sell a few each year, mostly to racers who've won in VARA, SCCA, and NASA. How many do you want?

Change the oil and filter. Change the transmission and diff fluid. Adjust the valves. New plugs. New plug wires. New air filter. Fix any ignition problems. Adjust the clutch. Pull and have the injectors cleaned and balanced. Replace leaking vacuum lines. Replace leaking fuel lines. Check the brake pads. Completely flush the brake fluid with new DOT4. Get an alignment. Set the air pressures in your tires. Doing all the above will get you more speed then anything listed so far.

Think about it: 5" of ride height adjustment can get you from the SCCA ITS minimum (5" at the rockers) to near what the Nissan works Rally cars ran (10.5" at rockers) for the East African Safari Rally. Are you really going to be adjusting beyond these extremes? Do your shocks have 9" of total travel? It won't hurt anything to have that much adjustment on the threaded collars but it seems like a lot of work to avoid a little bit of math.

Because of where you sit in a S30, you feel rear end movement a lot more then in other cars. The car feels like its loose when its really not. That's why its important to explore the car's limits and go beyond them in a controlled environment.

From your description above your car is no where near loose and the few back end stepping out events appear to have been driver induced. Due to the smoother roads. The anti-roll bar (ARB) has nothing to do with steering kickback. At that low of a speed you're getting so little load transfer that the suspension isn't taking any kind of set. You cannot make any balance determination from that test. That's absolutely normal behavior and is a result of weight transfer forward under decelleration. Downshift in a straight line, not in a corner. You also need to use the brakes to slow the car down, not the gears. Lifting off the throttle should let the rear of the car step out in a controllable manner and it sounds like that's what you've got Not to be a jerk, but based on the speeds mentioned above you haven't gotten close to a medium speed corner, let alone a high speed corner. Unless there's something mechanically wrong with the car, it sounds like the balance and handling is very normal for a slightly modified S30. You want the back of the car to be responsive to the throttle. Spend your money on yourself. Go to an autocross. Go to an open track day. Spend money on driving schools.

I might have talked with you over the phone, but why do you need more then 5" of ride height adjustment?

If you're upgrading your S30 its probably a good idea to replace the wheel studs even if you're going to run the stock length. These things are 35+ years old, have had the wheel nuts hammered on and off by who knows how many impact guns set to 150 ft. lbs., and the threads are probably way out of form spec.

http://www.betamotorsports.com/benchracing/R200handling.html

Its expensive, but I've never had any darkening problems with my Speedglas 9002X. I'm under it every day sometimes for hours and hours. Its really, really nice when welding thin wall stainless tubing at 30 amps with a .040 tungsten.

Sorry, no pictures of the brake ducting. It was something similar to what I recently did for my 350Z:

Uneven heating and/or uneven pad deposits will "warp" a rotor. Overheating a non-floating rotor (getting it beyond 1,400F) will also cause it warp.

Its not for me to determine "acceptable" since you're the one doing the test. Its up to you to define what's acceptable to you. Given that, I would like to do some calculations to determine what kind of boost increase you can get with a drop in compression ratio comparable to (but not with) the grooves. What I mean is that if the grooves drop the compression ratio 1.2 then I would want to know how much more boost and timing you can run with a compression ratio drop of 1.2 by something like opening up the chamber, installing a thicker head gasket, etc. Then cut the grooves and see how much increase in boost you can get. If its more then what's calculated from just the compression ratio drop then you can say that grooves helped in some way.

No, the strut inserts (shocks) are left intact. The strut tubes are cut and welded. Yes you can buy the strut inserts (shcoks). I don't know who Persay is. The cutting and welding part is done to the strut tube, not the strut insert (shock). You really need to read this thread and the other stickies in the Suspension forum. Or at least buy a shop manual.

About the most dangerous thing a drop bear can do is crap on you as you walk under tree. Except for this one: