johnc

The parts just need a cleanup, deburring, and some polishing. Yeah, they are not excellent used parts but they will work fine with a little extra work on your part.

There is also a rotational difference limit between the two halves. With the balls and plates moving side to side when the unit is differentiating that mass acceleration/deceleration and friction limits that difference almost like a lock ratio. A tight corner under power might have the inside wheel dragging a bit. Or maybe I still don't get it...

You can build a "street" suspension for the car for less then what I charge for the complete strut kit. I've done a few for customers and typical pricing is roughly like: 1. Shortened struts (customer supplied) $500. 2. Tokico HP shocks (non adjustable) $250. 3. Coil over kit (threaded collar, upper and lower spring perches) $200. 4. Hypercoil springs (150F/175R) $320. 5. Assembly using customer supplier upper spring insulators. $350. So the price is around $1750 for all four corners but that doesn't include rear wheel bearings, seals, spindle pins, camber plates, and some other stuff. That's about as reasonable as it gets.

Anti-dive takes some percentage of the load transfer under braking into the suspension itself (not the springs) as bind. Anti-dive is the ratio between where the a line drawn from the suspension instant center and the tire contact patch crosses the vehicle center-of-gravity/ground vertical plane. The ratio changes based on ride height and pitch so its low at the start of braking and gets higher under braking. 100% anti-dive means that all of the load transfer is being taken by the suspension components and geometry.

I'm confused...

Only on Tuesdays. The rest of the week I'm a whiner...

+ 1

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=15XlSbGzGTk

Just sold a CF hatch with polycarbonate window, stainless button heads holding it in place, and two aluminum hold down straps. 9.5 lbs. total. The hatch itself was 4.5 lbs. Greg Ira is running one of my CF hatch skins on his EP 240Z with the skin itself weighing in at just at 2 lbs.

I should have said 4 step. Step on amptrol then release, power to the torch. Step on amptrol and then release again, power off the torch. The torch gets whatever power is set on the machine, no fine adjustment with the amptrol. I set the power settings lower when welding this way and will move the torch slower to get the penetration I might need.

There's not a lot of anti-dive/squat built into the S30 suspension and freeing the suspension up is a better choice then retaining some level of anti. Springs, CG height changes, etc. can do a lot to reduce pitch changes.

My guess is that its a clutch pack LSD with a different clamping mechanism. Instead of the traditional ramps it uses balls and grooves.

I've tried a thumb wheel and had the steady hand issues mentioned above. For tough out-of-position welding I just set the machine into two step and use any conveniently available part of my body to hit the amptrol.

Since we've had these LSD group buys fall apart before, make sure you are truly able to deliver on this before asking for any money. Please do your research and perform a lot of due diligence on the vendor you're choosing to work with. Also, please make sure you are up to the communication and follow-up demands necessary to get this done and be ready to step up and and immediately fix problems when they come up. No excuses. Read the Rota wheel group buy thread to get an idea of the work you're committing yourself to.

Maybe also China, Hawaii, Seattle, Vancouver?

The sheer joy of flying like that would make me completely forget about opening the chute. One flight would be all I would get, but it would be amazing!

Ignition cutout.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103860

The diff you bought was most likely for the 350Z which uses a long 29 spline side axle.

Hopefully you shortened the strut tubes.

1974 260Zs sold in the USA did not run catalytic converters.

Please search. All your questions have been answered numerous times here on the site.

Here are the best race harness mounting instructions available: http://www.schrothracing.com/docs/Competition_Instructions.pdf In general you want the shoulder harnesses no longer then 18" from mounting point to shoulder and level with or no more then 20 degrees below the top of the shoulders.

A good tune-up and valve adjustment will get you more power then removing properly functioning emissions equipment.

True! I have a big DeWalt with a melted guard to back that up. The little dust collector bag caught fire the first time I used it with an abrasive wheel.