johnc

The whole point (which many people forget) of going to coil overs and using standard 2.5" ID springs is to make spring swaps quick and easy. Don't worry about getting it right the first time. If its not right, you buy another pair of springs, swap them out in two hours, and sell the old ones on eBay.

I did this research a few years ago and it mirrors what 240hoke posted above. But, it is very tire and rim specific so you must compare the same brand and model of tire and the same brand and model of wheel. A 1" OD wheel difference is not that big a deal as far as MOI is concerned. Going from a 15" to a 17" is more significant.

I might be interested in the truck. Maybe I can trade some S30 parts for it...?

C'mon Jon, give me some credit... I measured about 3" down inside the tube.

Either spring is fine for your application and spring sag won't be an issue for at least 25 years with the Tokicos or Eibachs. I list the spring rates for the Tokicos on my web site.

Not true. The ID of the 280Z strut tubes is larger then the ID of the 240Z strut tubes. I just pulled down a clean, media blasted front 240Z and front 280Z strut tube. 240Z - OD 2.005" ID 1.690" 280Z - OD 2.155" ID 1.728" There are variances in these dimension due to seamed tubing manufacturing tolerances. The variance is typically .005 to .010".

Roses, dinner at Joe Greensleves in Redlands, and watch "Legends of the Fall" with her and don't make any snide comments about Brad Pitt.

Search please.

Its that gravity thing. As long as there's fluid in the master you'll eventually get the slave to bleed out. You can also gravity bleed it but that takes a lot of patience.

We put in a change a few weeks ago that lets posters delete and/or close their own for sale ads. If that's not working for your ad it we'll check on it. In the meantime, edit the ad so it says SOLD and then close it.

If you want a cheap and strong tow vehicle, right now any V10 Ford F250/350 or 8.1L Chevy 2500/3500 is plenty strong enough and people can't give the things away. You'll save thousands over any comparable used diesel truck and that will buy your fuel for a few years - even longer if its a tow vehicle only.

The FS5C71B overdrive "race" transmission was available as a close ratio (32010-N3130) and wide ratio (32010-N3030). These units are generally not worth as much as the F5C71B direct drive drive "Option" boxes. It would help to know which transmission you have. Gearing is as follows: Close - 2.906, 1.902, 1.308, 1.00, .864 Wide - 3.321, 2.077, 1.308, 1.00, .864

How big a tire? BTW... this has all been answered here dozens of time. Search is your friend.

You can use either the Illumina or HP shocks on the 2+2 and the spring kit for the 260/280 works well on the 2+2. Tokico doesn't "recommend" the coupe springs for the 2+2 but that's based on weight concerns with 4 people in the car. I have at least 6 customers running the stuff in their 2+2s and they love 'em.

If you need to cut the outer housing, I've used a large pipe cutter to shorten it a bit. Also, don't cut the splines, cut in the center of the shaft.

We're talking and inch or two so the spacer or regular hub mount can be removed.

You can always pull the shaft and cut it to the length you want.

What's more important then the anchors is the concrete floor. You need a minimum 6" depth of pad with 3,000 psi concrete. In my shop the pad was 4" to 5" so I cut out a 3' x 20' section and poured a 12" deep reinforced pad for a 2 post Rotary 10K asymmetric lift. Another shop in the complex put the same lift in the existing pad and when a Jeep got pulled off one of the four arms one of the posts tore out and the whole mess collapsed sideways. The shop owner bought the old Jeep for $4,800 and then paid another $2,500 to repair all the damage. Luckily no one got hurt. Pay very close attention to the installation instructions for a lift and if you can, add an extra margin of safety. That extra margin comes in handy when things go wrong, which they will at some point.

Donations are used for basic infrastructure (Dan owns the servers and related hardware), software (it ain't free), Internet access, and beer. Notice the word "beer" is singular. We have one beer for all the admins.

I've T'd the oil drain into one of the scavenge lines.

I've installed/modified two ARE dry sump systems on L6 powered 240Zs. For any reasonable sized oil tank (1.5 gallons at a bare minimum) it pretty much has to go in the interior of the car. That makes the oil system plumbing fairly complete (and long) with the required filters and coolers. It is the best way to setup the engine oiling system but its complex and costs a bunch, even if you do it yourself. Mark at ARE is a great guy and will answer any question you might have.

Bodywork is never easier to fix then it looks. There's a reason a cheap car is cheap.

A Public Service Announcement There's this thing called a telephone. It allows person to person synchronous voice communication and its very effective. Been around a while. There's also this technology called e-mail. It allows asynchronous text communication between two people. Check this page: http://www.drysump.com/index1.htm At the top, the group of numbers is what you punch in on the telephone to talk with someone. Just below that, the group of letters with the ampersand in the middle is an e-mail address. Type that into your e-mail program and then type your message and hit the SEND button. BTW: Their catalog is on their web site right here: http://www.drysump.com/areacatg.pdf

Getting old...

I'm not going to guess on the price and if I made them they would be new parts. My market is primarily road racers and any offset or imbalance from weld-together parts would be an issue at race speed.