johnc

You'll need the following to complete your dry sump system: 1. Engine block mounting bracket for the pump. 2. Gilmer belt pully for crankshaft (might also need drive pulleys for water pump, alternator, and any other accessory). 3. Scavenge line filters to keep crap out of the pump. 4. Remote oil tank. 5. Additional -10/-12 oil lines and fittings to plumb the entire system. 6. Pressure side filter. 7. Block adapters for oil filter boss and pressurized oil inlet at the old oil pump location. 8. Assorted fasteners, clampes, etc. to route the oil lines. All of this is still available from ARE. Figure about $650 more for the parts you'll need.

The GCR is always ahead of the Solo rules regarding safety items. If you are building a roll cage, build it to the GCR rules. If you are building a roll bar (which the GCR does not address) build it to the Solo rules.

I'm thinking a SBC, a Powerglide, two sprockets, a chain, and skid brakes...

Thanks for the offer. Steve over at Suby Specialties is sending me the parts.

Probably two or three months.

One thing to keep in mind when building a steel top table for welding, the top itself needs to be at least .125" thick (.250" is much better) or it will bend/warp under welding heat. Over time the table top will not be flat anymore and it will be hard to weld items square/level/plumb.

If someone wants to send me a Subaru STi 27 spline R180 diff and the CV shafts I'll draw up and have made side shafts that allow this diff to be bolted to the stock 240Z halfshafts. It may take a few months but you'll get your diff and CV shafts back along with a set of the new side axles. I would prefer the mechanical LSDs from the 2004 through 2006 models.

Very shallow curves can be duplicated just in the mounting. Larger or sharper curves (like the windshield) must be set with heat and either a mold or a vacuum form. I agree with Mark regarding the appropriateness of polycarbonate windows on a street car.

Installed by the Datsun dealers to address customer vibration complaints.

Industrial shelving cut to the correct height and then a 1/2" steel plate as the top. I've got two of these in the shop, one 3 x 6 and the other 4 x 8. Helps to have a forklift to set the plate. I once found a 5' x 10' x 1' surface plate with screw adjustable legs that was mine if I would just haul it away. There were 2" deep, 3/8" threaded holes all across the surface in a 2" grid. Unfortunately it weighed 23,000 lbs and I had nothing that could move it.

Guys, stop posting for a bit and read the sticky's in the brakes, suspension, chassis forum. All of the questions you've all asked have been answered dozens of times over the last 8 years on this forum. In particular read these two threads: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103860 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=138601

Maybe not... I forgot about the OD difference. The BFG 245/40-18 is 25.4" OD and the Hankook 285/30-18 is 25" OD. Stock tire OD is 25" so the BFG tire overstated speed by 1.6% which would be about 1/2 the 5 mph speed difference.

Its a bit tall for an autocross tire on an S30 but it would work as a track tire. I ran 25.2" tall tires on the ROD and, although some compromises were required, it worked well. If the rules allow suspension mounting point relocation then tire OD is less of an issue.

In the Cal Speedway Roval example above you're (at least Erik is) foot to the floor from the point you get onto the front straight until you brake for the 90 degree left into the infield off the back straight. As Erik said, he was 5 mph slower entering turn 1 (with his foot to the floor) on the 285s then he was on the 245s. The difference was 140 mph vs. 145 mph. Tire scrub in turns 1 and 2 limit speed gain. Getting on to the front straight was about the same as indicated by the shift point from 3rd to 4th - right when the car transitions onto the front straight banking from the pit entry.

255/35R18 A6 Rim Width Range...... 8.50 to 10.00 Measure Rim Width.... 9.00 Section Width........ 10.8 Tread Width.......... 10.3 Overall Diameter..... 24.8 Talked with Jeff Speer at Hoosier and its actually a 270/32R-18 size tire.

Just pay attention to the bearing and buy a replacement now. NHBB has a great catalog here: http://www.nhbb.com/assets/pdfs/catalog/Racing.pdf

Nissan 350Z, stock engine, some suspension mods, aftermatket LSD... California Speedway Roval course: This course puts you onto the front straight just past the exit of turn 4 and you're on the oval until about 1/3 the way down the back straight - probably 40 seconds with your foot to the floor. Last year I ran the event on 245/40-18 BFG gForce R1 tires on 18 x 8.5" wide wheels. Erik Messley was my co-driver and he's a pro racer having class wins at the Rolex 24 Hours, Paul Revere 250, Sebring, etc. His best time was a 1.56.9xx. This year, same car with some addition suspension mods (more camber in front) and 285/30-18 Hankook 214 C50s. Erik ran a best of 1.57.7xx and noticed the car was down 5 mph at the end of the front straight. Some of this speed/time difference could be due to the tires, weather, etc. but we both think the increase in tread width and the additional weight of the wheel tire combo contributed to the reduction in lap times. Much of a fast lap on the Roval depends on how fast you can run with your foot to the floor on the oval.

ATF (any auto trans fluid is fine) is used if the weather is cold or you're running a lighter flywheel. In most other cases a 20W oil works well.

Try searching the Drivetrain forum. Shortening axles is a fairly common modification.

Hold one of the tires still while doing the rotation thing. You can also remove the rear cover and read the ratio on the ring gear.

Having experienced something similar I say yes, for road race tracks with long straights, a wider tire can actually be slower then a narrower tire due to aero drag and the additional MOI. From the latest Mark Ortiz chassis newsletter:

I'm thinking something more appropriate for Paul's years on this earth. Steam:

I guess I missed this post a while back. I agree that a turbo SR20DET will make more power then a NA L6 and in the examples I cited above Amir's SR20 car made over 100 hp them mine. The SR20DET, including turbo and associated plumbing, does NOT weight a lot less then a NA L6. I've built a few of both and had the cars on corner weighting scales. The 1% number I mentioned above and you quoted was in regards to weight distribution. Typical SR20DET swaps come in at 48 to 47% Front, 52 to 53% Rear. A NA L6 install with the engine moved back in the chassis typically comes in at 49 to 48% Front, 51 to 52% Rear. There's no way on this planet to get a 30 to 40% improvement in weight distribution from a SR20DET swap over a L6 swap assuming both engines are moved back in the chassis and the chassis are similarly modified. That's in the range of 41 to 39% Front and 59 to 61% Rear and is in Porsche 911 territory.

Bad seal on the turbo shaft?

Vq35?