johnc

BTW... those Burns mufflers are (or maybe were) made for them by Coast Fab in Huntington Beach. http://www.coastfab.com/ultralights.html

I'm always amazed at the people who complain about how a high end supercar is too expensive when they don't have enough money to get their project HybridZ off its jackstands. Shut up and finish your damn car!

U20 predated the L16/18/20 and there is not much commonality. http://www.gordon-glasgow.org/Evil_L.asp

Yes, i would gladly borrow one and return it once the measurements are all done. You can drop it by the shop anytime (call first to make sure I'm here) or I can come by and pick it up later this week.

As suggested above, remove or machine the strut spacer down enough to clear. I would start by taking 1/4" out of the strut spacer and see how that works.

I'm impressed!

Not yet. I'm have a hard time finding just one 2004-2006 STi rear CV shaft. I can find the diffs everywhere but the CV shafts are elusive, unless I want to spend $462.64 for a new one from Subaru.

One issue with running a Quaife ATB is curb hopping. If that's your bag, you need shocks that will keep the car stable over the curbs especially if you're putting down some power. If the rear of the car launches over the curb while you've got your foot down (too much compression damping), the inside rear wheel will go airborn, the Quaife will most likely go open (even with some preload), the inside rear wheel will spin and you'll lose drive on the outside rear wheel, the car will pitch forward and start to spin, and then wham, the inside rear wheel lands and both rear wheels start providing power again - or a stub axle goes boom! Either way, you're going off track in a pretty spectacular way. Been there, done that - once at Streets of Willow and twice at Buttonwillow.

The basic numbers are in the alignment sticky on this site. With the welded rear diff I adjusted rear toe depending on the track speed and how courageous I was. Slower tracks got closer to zero toe in the rear. Autocross sometimes got 1/16" total toe out but that was iffy. If the car started to lose the back end you needed hands of lightning to catch it and the run was blown anyway. It did make slaloms interesting... I also think I ran less caster with a welded diff. I was one of those guys that was always adjusting things between sessions at the track. Typically I would show up with a pretty aggressive alignment/shock setting and scare myself silly in the first session or practice. I would back off the settings and then make them more aggressive as the day went on and my tiny puddle of confidence/talent grew.

Flat spots on the tires?

The Tokico HP shocks do not have enough rebound to control to handle a spring rate above about 215 lb. in. The spring will oscillate after bumps reducing traction. In addition, the rebound valve stack will fail very quickly and the shock will be junk. The Tokico Illuminas cannot handle that high spring rate either. If you're dead set on 300 lb. in. springs (which is a lot of spring for a street driven S30) you'll need Tokico HTS, Bilstien, or Koni shocks.

Nissan Motorsports also sold a U20 rod with a C2C length of 144mm. Part number 12100-25500. I can't match that -25540 part number with anything in my collection of old Nissan Motorsports catalogs.

Tim, I'm worried. It looks like you're running 300 lb. in. springs and Tokico HP shocks. Is that true?

What shocks are you running with your 300 lb. in. front springs?

There is so much mis-information regarding engine oil that its almost impossible to make an intelligent decision. A lot of this comes form the oil company marketing BS and its just plain misleading. Over on My350Z.com they are creating a database of oil analysis results from many members running different oils under different situations. Its probably the most objective source out there: http://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-drivetrain/258663-vq-oil-analysis-and-info.html

From what I've read this is Clint's last movie and he wanted to revisit Harry Callahan in retirement. He did a great job in that role but most of the other actors appeared wooden, which is typical of all the other actors in the Dirty Harry series. Its basically a series of setups for Dirty Harry one liners.

And we're not web developer's by trade and we do this on our own time for free. We appreciate the heads up but, unfortunately, one or two people affected by an add does not really cause us much concern. Its added to the list. FYI... I don't experience the problem in Firefox or IE so I'm inclined to think its an issue with an individual's machine or settings (pop up blocker?)

Don't do it. Not necessary and will most likely cause some problems. Also, for a high mileage street car I would run regular oil, not synthetic. Chevron Delo 400 or Shell Rotella in 10W-30.

Figure 40 hours of work on the tooling at $90 per (fully loaded) given a reasonably priced tool and die maker. That's $3,600 and that's a bargain. Spread that $3,600 over 100 parts (typical cost projection for small runs) and you're looking at an additional $36 each part over comparable coupe parts - for one part. And that's just the cost recovery part. No profit in there at all. I think paying an extra $40 per part for 2+2 parts is very reasonable and you're not being bent over anything for that sum.

Maybe not. Your side axles are designed to work with a threaded button inside the diff and are most likely about 1/2" too short. You need to measure the shaft depth on the Subie side axles and compare them to the shaft depth of the Datsun side axles.

Koni had a big price increase earlier this year. They fought the declining dollar as best they could but once most of the US stock was sold, the new stuff coming in went up. Before then I was selling Koni's to folks in Europe because the US prices plus shipping and duty fees were cheaper then buying the shocks locally.

Probably won't find M10 x 1.25 pitch in a hardware store. Try McMaster-Carr for class 8.8 or Tacoma Screw for class 10.9.

You'll see a big difference in lateral grip once the tire gets warm.

No spools that I know of. CLSDs, Detroit Lockers, Torsens, Quaifes are available but for complete lockup welding is your only option.

What we get from Tabco is equal or better in quality then the Camaro/Mustang guys get. I just replaced a rear 1/4 panel, floor boards, rear window edge, and a door skin on a '68 Camaro using the best panels available new (from Canada). It was no better then replacing panels on a 240Z using Tabco parts.