johnc

No significant difference. 1/2" - you don't want to see a significant pressure drop across the cooler. Get an Earl's thermostatic sandwich plate. If you ahve the part number Summit can get it: http://www.holley.com/types/Sandwich%20Style%20Oil%20Thermostats.asp Also, buy a real racing oil cooler like a Setrab or a Mocal.

215 on the track on a hot day is nothing and its not something the aluminum radiator is going to improve. L6 engines put a lot of heat into the oil when running on a track. Adding an oil cooler will do more to bring the coolant temps down then going from a 4 row brass to a two row aluminum. For radiator mounting with a stock style side flange radiator, use 4 Lord mounts part number 9376K213 from McMaster-Carr.

Nismo has not closed shop. Nissan Motorsports (a completely separate unit from Nismo) was supposedly closed as part of Nissan's earlier US motorsports cut-back announcement, but that's not true. Nissan Motorsports is alive and well. TorVec has an exclusive deal with Nismo for the R200 units for the 350Z.

The transmissions were a problem in some situations until the 009 revision which came on the 2006 models. There's a TSB on the earlier trans which get upgrades synchros. The 009 tranny has triple cone synchros on 1st through 3rd, double on 4th and single on 5th and 6th.

I've used Devcon Titanium epoxy and have cut it on my lathe with no problems. Didn't chip out of the repair and machined just like the base metal. As Kevin states, surface preparation is the key - a slightly roughened surface and absolutely no paint, powder coat, oils, solvents, buggers, etc. on the surfaces to be joined. EDIT: The putty version of Devcon Titanium epoxy is good to 350 degrees. McMaster-Carr sells a high temp machinable epoxy good to 500 degrees. Part number 75325A2. I have not experience with this product.

The best dual 1.75 SU engines make about 240hp at the crank. I know of no normally aspirated L series engine that makes over 400hp at the crank. There "might" be one or two Japanese drag racing engines that hit that number over the last 35 years.

Great movie! Heath will get an Oscar nomination for sure and will probably win it. Unfortunately I can't imagine anyone else playing the Joker in future versions. For me, the Joker died with Heath.

Nissan Motorsports did sell two different ramp styles in their LSDs to allow a small option in the locking progresion. I ran the more aggressive version (essentially 100% lock) in my BSP 240Z and backed the preload down to about 45 ft. lbs. Low speed, sharp, low engine torque turns will essentially have the unit locked. Putting a couple hundred miles on it with a couple bottles of Torco friction modifier helped. If you can find a parking lot and do 30 minutes of figure eights after adding the friction modifier you can really speed up the break-in process.

A Cadillacd CTS-V won the T2 class at the SCCA Runoffs in 2004. It also had the pole and set the fastest lap beating Nissan 350Zs, Camaro SSs, Neon SRT-4s, Porsche Boxster Ss, and BMW M3s.

In the case of a front engined RWD sedan, positive castor has a jacking effect on the suspension of the outside wheel that is loosely related to the kingpin angle. Granted this effect is small but it does work to increase the corner weight diagonal by some amount - greater in low speed, high steering angle corners. It can be measured on corner weight scales but I think those measurements are irrelevant due to the dynamics involved out on course. The suspension jacking also helps to reduce lateral load transfer by some very small amount. In the case of a formula car with a more optimized chassis layout, the effect is greatly reduced to the point of insignificance.

That's a muffler bearing. Check to see if your muffler is binding.

Can you imagine the damage to the engine internals from corrosion and oxidation when you dump any of these chemicals into the combustion chambers and let them ignite? I think the aluminum pistons themselves would react with the oxidizer, not to mention the intake manifold. There's a big reason why oxidizer tanks are made out of non-reactive metals.

I'm sure the parts are well made and work as advertised. I just think the name is funny. "Hey John, who made the coolant tank in your Z's engine compartment?" "Arrrggghhh matey. That's one of dem dar Weapon Arrrrggghhhhsss!" "I didn't know it was talk like a pirate day."

The sealed tank is generally required on any race track to prevent coolant from getting on the track. The vented tank is normal for a street car. Why would a coolant overflow tank be named "Weapon R"? "Careful, there's a Weapon R coolant overflow tank under the hood of that Dastun. Keep the children back." I would wait for the "Weapon R V-TEC Type R" overflow tank. Its good for another 40 horsepower.

Already been done, but you don't need pistons: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/F-1_%28rocket_engine%29

Slip on is a better option for installation, especially if you're moving the engine back in the engine compartment. Also, use a real merge collector in your Y pipe, and try to make the secondary pipes equal length.

Breedlove used to charge $750 to rebuild and race prep a Nissan B box for road racing. That was 10 to 15 years ago.

Yes:

Some people didn't watch the link...

For road racing there are few tricks to making them last longer (roll pin mods, shimming, REM treatment) and they can last a couple seasons behind a 200hp ITS 240Z - assuming the driver knows how to shift and is running a good, properly adjusted clutch.

Another Mark Ortiz chassis newsletter:

Put a poly bushing on the front side of the TC rod and a OEM rubber bushing on the back side. Use some large vice grips to clamp the whole mess together to get the nut started.

That's the nice thing about caster, it helps plant the inside rear wheel in a corner. It does other, not so nice things with steering effort and rolling resistance, but if your car is making good power it helps get the power down earlier in a corner.

I forgot to post the spark for this discussion, yet another Mark Ortiz chassis article:

In the future, just drill a hole in the bottom of the strut and use a punch or an air hammer to pound the shock out. You can either weld up the hole after or buy a little rubber plug. Put a spacer under the shock if it won't tighten down under the gland nut. Make sur the gland nut is bottoming on the shock, not the threads in the strut. And always put some oil in the strut tube around the shock for the reasons listed above.