johnc

Don't grind any welds on a roll cage or roll bar. The tech inspctors like to see the qaulity of the welds and a ground weld is almost a guaranteed failure and you won't be allowed to run on the track. You can cut the bar out, carefully grind the bead off the main hoop and diagonal, and weld in a curved bar. Just don't grind any welds once you're done with the fab.

Find another shipping company. I've shipped L6 engines from Los Angeles to Atlanta and back and never paid more the $290. Try http://www.baxglobal.com or http://www.freightquote.com. You can save money by mounting the engine on a pallet. And lighten up.

What you're describing is a cold air box and that's something that helps an ITB or triple Weber setup.

The advantage a plenum has over ITBs is a broader, flatter torque curve. I had very specific goals for my 3L L6 and one of them was over 200 ft. lb. of torque in a 3,000 rpm band. Given the budget for that engine was $20K Jim Thompson could have used any intake method available - he went with a 1.5L plenum with internal velocity stacks and diverters, 7.5" tapered intake runners, and a 65mm TB. The engine developed over 200 ft. lbs. from 4,000 to 7,500 rpm and over 250 from 5,200 to 6,500.

Don't know why I didn't think of this before. For you folks drag racing 240Zs, here's an alternative to the Ford 9". FYI... I have no connection to the seller, just thought it was a neat alternative. http://sccaforums.com/forums/thread/265138.aspx

A front coil-over setup is easy for a S130. If someone is willing to be the prototype guy and bring me their S130, I can come up with a shock/coil over setup for the rear of a S130.

Keep the heater and blower. I kept them on my unlimited class race car because I raced in the rain. RainX can only do so much.

I fab for a living and my cost to make those frame rails isn't close to what John at Bad Dog charges. They are formed correctly, straight, flat, and strong. I use them as guides to straighten the floor pans. Worth every penny.

The square tube you want to run laterally across the car doen't have to be continuous to be strong enough for seat mounting and chassis reinforcement. Instead of going to all the work of raising the frame rails into the chassis, just buy some Bad Dog frame rails and weld them in. The lateral seat tube can then be welded to the bottom of the rockers, notched and welded to the Bad Dog frame rails, and then across the chassis. Or, weld the square seat tube on top of the floor pan in the interior like the rest of us do.

Think of the engine compartment as a big rectangular box with the core support as one end of that rectangle. Tie the top corners of the core support into the upper frame rails that extend from the cowl, tie the bottom corners into the lower front frame rails, and then add a diagonal brace or an X across the opening with small diameter (3/4") round tube. The wall thickness on all the materials you will use to build this core support doesn't need to be anything thicker then .063".

Unless you added a fuel sabilizer before storage I would drain it into a fuel can and use it to power the lawn mower. No reason to risk your fuel pump, filter, carb or the engine.

I agree. Even for track duty the sliding block calipers and stock rotors do great if you upgrade the fluid and pads. But if you read the threads on my350Z.com you'd think the 350Z had 240Z brakes and a $5,000 BBK upgrade is a mandatory safety item.

Carl knows all about the Hitachi (Nissan) R series of differentials. Brent builds the driveshafts. Scott works the counter. Devon is the operations manager. Jerry is the owner. These are all the people you need to know at Unitrax.

For 2006 they are double piston front, single piston rear. Not sure what it would take to adapt them, but you would be better off running PBR aluminum calipers if you want the sliding block style or Outlaws, Wilwood, etc. if you want the solid block style.

Never had any pop-ups from HybridZ and I've never seen those soft core ads.

Its very important that you isolate your generator from the main power line, otherwise your generator can backfeed the main line and zap someone working to restore power to the neighborhood. A local person here didn't wire their generator properly and did just that. It cost him a lot of money.

Welcome to the club and good luck with the car.

Get new factory bolts, nuts, and lockwashers and tighten them as hard as you can using open end wrenches. Don't use any Locktite. I've tried SAE, AN/MS, and DIN fasteners and always had problems. The Nissan factory halfshaft nuts and bolts work the best.

You need to set the rear up loose and use the brakes to get the back end to start to rotate. You catch it with the throttle and pretty much throttle steer the car around the corner. FYI... this technique is true for slow and medium speed corners (up to about 80 mph). Higher speed corners require a more delicate approach because the car is setup steady state loose mechnaically. Ideally, aero is used to increase rear downforce and move the car from mechnaically loose to aero neutral or slightly understeering. Rain makes it all much more "interesting." New bolts properly torqued the first time goes a long way to keeping them tight. But, they will eventually loosen. When I ran the welded diff in my car I checked the halfshaft nuts and bolts between every session. Two 14mm thin Snap-On open end wrenches work great.

Congratulations. With all that polished aluminum its looking a bit like an old Offy or Miller engine - which is a nice compliment.

Put a smaller bar on fron (25mm) and a bigger bar on back (21mm) and learn how to trial brake like a mother f***er to get the rear end to come around.

Thanks!

The market for Datsun 240Z and L6 parts is very small compared to other cars and engines. A manufacturer would be foolish to design and tool up (about a $750,000.00 investment) to produce cylinder heads that 95% of the market couldn't afford.

Lots of birds do this already.