johnc

OK. I've got a book about making Jewelry and they say the order I listed above. Aluminum is a newer metal so maybe the Jewelry book missed the order.

Sorry, I have to give you another nope. From the Jewelry world: Gold, Lead, Brasses (including Coppers), Silver, then Aluminum. And if you really want to get crazy with malleable metals, try Uranium.

Nope. The standard measure of a metal's "flexibility" (ductility) is elongation of a 1/2" OD bar as a percent in 2". 1010 through A500C steels elongate from 20 to 23%. 4130 and up steels elongate around 11% which is a result of their higher carbon content. Structural aluminum in 2024T351 elongates 19%, 6061T651 elongates 17%, and 7075T651 elongates 11%. Another big difference is the spread between a material's yield point (where it starts to bend) and its tensile point (when it starts to crack). In aluminum that spread is very small compared to steel. Aluminum's spread is typically around 10ksi while steel's is typically around 30ksi.

The factory Nissan ball joints are significantly better made then any other I've seen for a 240Z. They last longer then two years under hard road racing and autocross use with big sticky tires and crazy camber/caster angles. The set I had on the ROD lasted 4 years and still checked out fine. They are not scarce at all (I can buy a box of 50 if I want) and I can get them from any Nissan dealer. One of my customers had a set of brand new no-name ball joints on his 240Z and after 4 open track events they were loose and showed a .2 degree change in camber depending on how you pushed on the tire. For a street car, no name ball joints are fine but be sure to check them every year. For a road race or autocross car, they are junk and I won't install them on any of my customer's cars.

Its the Mayberry Sheriff's Car!

Too much droop causes the car to wallow around because the rate of weight transfer is slowed. It makes the car sluggish in response. Too little droop causes sudden tire unloading. Excluding high downforce applications - droop limiting in some cases is a band-aid for handling issues that cannot be corrected with more traditional methods. Sudden limits on suspension movement is generally a bad thing.

She autocrosses in C Street Prepared and is smarter then you? Man, you'll need to be working hard on the self esteem thing... Tell her congratulations from all of us.

Might have to lengthen the strut.

I ran a Peterson 400 series filter before the pump (45 micron) and another before the fuel rail (10 micron). Both caught a lot of crap over 4 years of racing. http://www.petersonfluidsys.com/filter_fuel.html

The differential is a separate, bolt-on unit from the ring gear. If you weld the diff and then don't like it, you can unbolt it from your 3.36 gearset and bolt on another diff - open, LSD, or Quaife. A differential for any R200 will bolt on to pretty much any R200 ring and pinion gearset, assuming a 10mm or 12mm attachment bolt. Same is true for an R180 differential and a R180 ring and pinion gearset.

There is no set length to remove from each tube and that's thinking about it the wrong way. What you are really doing is making the strut length match the shock body length. Unless you measure the strut tube exactly the same way that I (or others) measure the strut tube, comparing numbers is meaningless. That being said, if you measure by putting a tape measure inside a completely cleaned out strut tube and make sure the end of the tape measure is centered in the little depression at the bottom of the strut tube, the lengths are as follows: Front BZ3099 - 13.375" to 13.500" Rear BZ3015 (with a custom length spacer) - 14.938" to 15"

Welding the differential has no affect on the gears.

Courtesy Nissan for ball joints and tie rod ends.

Old age is the most unexpected of all the things that can happen to a man. - Trotsky.

I sell a complete coil over setup for the 240Z. http://www.betamotorsports.com/products/240StrutKit.html Send ModernMotorsports and e-mail. He will respond.

I guess you've never seen a push-pull setup like a Python, Cobra, Robo, or XR-A. Very common in high production aluminum MIG welding. http://www.millerwelds.com/products/wire_feeders/xr_a__air_cooled__gun/ http://www.abicorusa.com/sppw401d.htm http://www.weldingmag.com/323/Issue/Article/False/10982/Issue

No, its not stiffer then a strut tower bar and does not add any appreciable stiffness to the car. Its a roll bar and meant to protect the occupant in case of a roll over. If you want a strut tower bar, purchase and install a strut tower bar. If you want a roll bar, purchase and install a roll bar. Cutting up a roll bar to make it a strut tower bar is generally not a good idea. The Autopower roll bar with the inner diagonal brace is fine for a street car and does offer a measure of protection in case of a roll over. The one pictures above is less effective because it does not have the main hoop diagonal brace, but it does help some.

Just bolt it in as is.

IMHO, no. You've already stiffened the car enough and my guess is that you're just adding more weight. Put the welder down and walk away from the car...

Nope. Shock valving is not spring rate. Repeat. Shock valving is not spring rate. You would be better off running softer springs and bigger anti-roll bars. Spring rates at or below 200 lb. in. work fine with the big 1 1/8F and 7/8R anti-roll bars.

Yes, that's the area where most roll bar/cage main hoops are located and is one of the strongest places in the chassis. Some people trim the main hoop and edge it into the rocker, others build a small box in the corner and put the main hoop on that. Schroth makes a DOT legal 4 point harness that would be legal for road use in Oregon.

Soak as per the suggestion above. Also, pull the cam cover and pour Marvel Mystery Oil on the cam, rockers, chain, etc. Pull the distributor and pour more MMO down the hole. When you put the breaker bar on the engine, try to turn it in both directions, alternate directions, and/or put an impact gun on the crank bolt and let it hammer at a light setting for a few seconds. Try turning it from the flywheel. Drill out a spark plug and weld an air fitting to the outside end. Screw it the cylinder that's one the compression stroke and apply air pressure. That will help force the MMO down around the piston and rings.

Rhetorical. In the engine I had built the knife edging was done properly by one of the best engine builders in the country with an essentially no expense spared budget. The same basic crank setup (knife edging, radiusing, shot peening, polishing, nitriding) is performed on the championship winning Speed World Challenge GT/Touring engines that Sunbelt builds. Makes sense to me. Don't know. The rods in my engine were Carillos, pistons were JE custom forged, and the crank was lightened by 17lbs over the stock diesel crank. ATI Super Damper with a 3lb flex plate/flywheel.

Hydlar Z has a harder durometer then aluminum and is legal for BSP. Its just stupid expensive at around $67 per foot for a 2" OD rod. Black Delrin is even a little bit harder but not as abrasion resistant as Hydlar and is only $16 per foot for a 2" OD rod.

http://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowledge/articles/content/distortion.asp