johnc

You need to cut the area open and find all the rust.

I was calling BS on the tire guy. Most tires stores only want to sell what they have on the shelf.

You are looking down into the frame rail through that hole. That section is actually two box sections running fore/aft, one on top of the other. You need to: 1). inspect and determine the extent of the rust. 2) determine if the time and effort required is worth it. 3) cut out all the rust. 4) fabricate the replacement pieces. 5) weld them in. 6) grind the external areas smooth. 7) rust proof. 8) prime and paint.

Just buy the right size threaded tube and lower spring perch from a1racing.

It wasn't just one person, I've had six people PM me this week. In the previous six months, maybe one person. Someone is spreading rumors...

This is all well within the box. A 40+ year old box.

Remove the fill plug. It takes a lot of leverage sometimes. Try 2' of pipe on the end of your wrench and make sure the wrench fits tight over or in the fill plug. Last Z I worked on took 3' of pipe on the end of a breaker bar. Use anti-sieze when you reinstall it.

For some reason a half-dozen newbies have hit me up this week via PM asking if I sell this stuff. Not since 2011. Nobody has their products right now in the USA. Tokico screwed up their distribution channel 3 years ago and have not recovered. They are advertising on LinkedIn for two or three manager positions so it looks like the key people have quit or were fired. Buy KYB, Koni, Bilstein, Monroe, or STAGG. Just don't ask me, I don't sell that stuff.

8610s can go to 400 lb. in. max and need a 250 lb. in. spring as a minimum.

A few years ago my thinking moved away from a bigger rear bar. A lot depends on what type of rear diff you're running. With a welded diff you need a bigger rear bar to get the car to rotate under trail braking. With a good clutch pack LSD that has a low breakaway or a ATB you want a much smaller rear bar. IMHO, the S30 will turn faster lap times with more roll stiffness up front. Toward the end of the RODs life with me I was running a Quafe ATB and a 1 1/8" front anti-roll bar and a 5/8" adjustable rear anti-roll bar set at full soft. Springs were 375 up front and 300 in back. The car felt dead and pushy on corner entry but came out of corners hard with a nice set. Lap times improved. For a street car things are different. You can't run enough spring on a street car so you need a bigger anti-roll bars. Also, people without much racing experience confuse a neutral handling car with an oversteering car. A neutral handling car will step out in back if you lift off the throttle in a corner. An oversteering car will step out in back in a corner - period.

BS. You have the Kumho XS, Sumitomo HTRZ, Toyo Proxes R888, Goodyear F1GSDS,

Take a step drill bit and enlarge the hole in the outer face of the drum to about 3/4" Drill it with the hole at about 2 o'clock. Disconnect the e-brake cable from the clevis. Turn the brake drum so the hole is at 6 o'clock. Using a screw driver, push the e-brake lever down and away from the wheel cylinder. If it keeps popping back up stuff some toothpicks in there to keep the lever down, away from the wheel cylinder. Turn the brake drum to about 5 o'cock so you can get to the adjuster teeth. Turn the teeth down (IIRC) to move the shoes away from the drum.

Is the taper fully seated in the steering arm?

If the diff has an LSD and the tires are spinning, then the diff is not working hard. A R180 in a road race application is limited to around 300 ft. lbs. of torque. And at that level you need an oil cooler. I know of a number of road racing STis running under 400hp who cooked their R180s. That's with real sticky race slicks in a 3,100 lb. car. Again, spinning tires means the diff isn't working hard.

And you need camber gain because of the loss of camber in roll. Even if you set the camber angle at the spindle you will lose camber as the car rolls into a turn. I think your idea is good but not exactly for the reasons you're stating.

You order from here: http://www.brandcarparts.com/shocks-struts-nissan-240z http://www.brandcarparts.com/shocks-struts-nissan-260z I can't say anything about the quality but there are review threads on the BMW forums going back to 2010 for the E36 application. $290 for four shocks and springs is really cheap. Even if the shocks are junk you get a set of Vogtland springs.

I have no affiliation with this company, just posting a new option for shocks and springs. First shipment of the S30 application arrived. Should be able to order them soon. They have also had Vogtland wind a set of lowering springs. Street setup but probably decent for track days. Low priced and a good alternative to Tokico. I know the owner of Stagg personally and have worked on his 240Z. Jack is a racer and that RX7 is his car. http://staggshocks.com/ I have not tested these.

In the broadest sense its completely true. Its basic geometry for a strut suspension. And yes you are correct regarding a limited total range of travel (typically 2" for a race car and 4" for a street car) but ideally that range of travel is near the 90 degree angle between the strut and the LCA so you move in the narrowest camber gain/lost range (by design). How would a coil-over shock affect the suspension geometry of a trailing arm suspension design? Its not a structural part of the suspension like it is on a MacPhereson or Champan strut design. You are completely ignoring camber loss in roll. You have to have some camber gain in bump to counteract that inherent flaw in strut suspension design. I'm beginning to think you don't know a lot about suspension and even less about road racing. Yeah, +/- a degree or two ain't no big thing.

You learned a lesson. You generally need to protect 6' in all directions when MIG welding.

Technically that's not a gusset. Its an additional attachment point and yes, that does help. I had two from my roll bar in the ROD to the roof structure and it stopped all creaking and "C" pillar cracks. Sample size is now 2.

3M Weld and Spark Paper. Sold on Amazon.com. If your welded is stupid enough to not protect glass and interior panels when grinding and welding I would not use him again.

Sounds like a reaction disk problem.

Those offset urethane isolators from MSA are the ones I've seen break the tops of shock shafts. Two with two different customers of mine.

My guess is lack of lube. Failure in 70 miles is usually a lube issue. There doesn't appear to be any residual grease in the bearing and the retainer looks blued from heat. Did you pack grease into this bearing before installing it? Its takes me about 5 minutes to properly get the grease into this bearing.

There is tons of information regarding that bypass here on Hybridz. Its usually discussed in the context of the entire cooling system and hot spot issues with cylinders 5 and 6. Start here: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/59029-head-cooling-on-cylinder-5-solutions/