johnc

Install the cage as supplied by Autopower. Yes, it would be better if the main hoop went to the rocker panels, but that's not how they designed it. The modifications you mention would not be legal for most race sanctioning bodies and there's a good chance they will not let you run.

Each generation got stronger. That's about all that can be said unless someone has access to data from Nissan.

The Taj Mahal of Virginia! Little minarets on the top would look cool.

Don't know. I don't work on diffs myself, I let the experts mess with those things. http://www.gounitrax.com

If its a factory R200 it will have 3.36 gears for the 4 speed car.

Having bought and sold a few R190s, you need to make sure they are in good shape. At least one of the internal bearings is specific to the R190 and NLA from Timken, NTN, NHBB, etc. If the unit needs new bearings or needs to be rebuilt, you're in for a long and expensive search. The R190 was OEM in the 432R 240Z and came with a two pinion clutch pack LSD - if I remember correctly. Some R190s were imported into the USA by Nissan Motorsports with a 4 pinion clutch pack LSD but parts have long been NLA. EDIT: I sold my last one for about $800 and it had a new set of bearings.

And if you get a reply, let me know. They haven't replied to any of mine in 3 months. Tony, you got any of the bronze oil pump drive gears? I need 6.

Quaife.

Lincoln Electric plasma cutter.

2.5mm is about a tenth of an inch. Are you sure those wires are that thin?

Sounds like the house has been made uninhabitable. At this point, in our lawsuit happy society, you have to notify the authorities and tell the homeowner the horrible truth. If the roof falls in on them and you haven't made the proper notifications, you'll be the one that gets sued.

Off topic a bit... If you're going to tear into things you might want to move your anti-roll bar up and run it through the frame rails (if you have enough clearance to the oil pump and balancer) and attach the end links directly to the strut tube. That was one of the front end mods I really wanted to do to my car but never got a chance. My thinking was the ARB would be more responsive, lighter, and I could probably reduce the ARB rate a bit.

There's the whole rest of the unibody supporting the chassis so I wouldn't worry about the small section you've removed. The rockers provide more longitudinal support to the chassis then the frame rails.

Huh? The exhaust pipe is being hit by the outer u-joint on the halfshaft? How can anyone possibly route the exhaust so that it gets hit by a u-jooint in the halfshaft?

Sounded like a BMW with an open 3" exhaust. Ever listened to a Word Challenge BMW? Same thing.

FYI... On a 1995 BMW M3 with a 3" racing exhaust, removing the Borla muffler and adding a Supertrapp knocked off 20 horsepower at the top and 12 to 31 ft. lbs. of torque throughout the rpm range. We tried tuning with discs and there was no difference with 5 to 20 discs in the Supertrap. Taking the end cap off gave us back all the horsepower and torque.

That was a great game. I kept jumping out of my chair at home.

Maybe. Depends on how much work I have in the shop.

We are looking for a few new admins. Here's the help wanted page: http://www.wouldyoubelieve.com/kaos.html

The annoucer should just shut the hell up! Nissan inline 6 cylinders have a sound all their own.

Here's an example: Weeks before an event a lot of EVO guys and their entourage were talking trash on a message board about how uber-fast their cars were. I started getting involved and just acted in awe of how fast the cars might be and how lucky I was just to be on the same track with my Rusty Old Datsun. Things went back and forth and I ended up betting Robbie, with his Road Race Engineering prepared EVO, that I would beat him by 1 second at each track on the event schedule. Just a friendly bet of $20. This beat was the teaser. After this was posted on the various message boards a lot of the entourage wanted in on it, figuring an old Datsun couldn't possibly beat their all conquering EVO. I took about 10 bets and even got odds from some of the guys. At the first track on the event schedule I beat the EVO by 5 seconds. The smallest margin was 3 seconds and one track the EVO didn't even run because his engine blew. I collected from Robbie and promptly gave him his $20 back (he worked his butt off getting a new engine in his car overnight to make the last event). I was able to collect from six of the ten other bets (four welched and said it was unfair). That's how you work know-it-alls.

You guys just don't know how to work it. You can win some money from the "know-it-alls" as you play along with them, make them feel confident, and get them to bet on a race. I love it when I encounter know-it-alls with a slightly modified car and a lot of money in their wallets.

Actually, most aluminum structures are MIG (GMAW) welded. My Featherlite aluminum race trailer is all MIG welded as are most tow truck roll-off beds, pontoon boats, semi-truck trailers, building trusses, motorhomes, Z06 Corvette frames, Nissan 350Z subframes, etc.

Wroght aluminum is available in various tempers indicated by a "T" and a number designation after the alloy. 6061 T6 is a commonly available wrought alloy with "T651" being the temper. Aluminum alloys in as wrought form as give a temper designation of "T0". Most 50552 and 6061 alloys are heat treated after manufacture. The first treatment is a heating to 1000F and holding the material there for a short time. This gives a temper designation of "T4". Addtion steps are taken (3 hours at 400F) to bring the material to a "T6" designation. When you properly weld any heat treated aluminum alloy, the weld itself and the heat affected zone are brought back to a T0 temper which gives that area of the material the same strength as it was originally wrought. 6061 T6 aluminum plate has yield strength of 40Ksi and a tensile strength of 45Ksi. 6061 T0 aluminum plate has a yield strength of 30Ksi and a tensile strength of 35Ksi. Pre and post weld heat control is not necessary with aluminum and it won't "save" the temper that's lost in welding. For your application, proper material alloy, type, and wall thickness is more important then maintaining temper. You can weld aluminum using GMAW or GTAW.

As you said, drill a hole in the bottom of the strut, soak the insert from the bottom as Alex suggested, and then hit it with an air hammer. You don't need to weld up the hole, just find a rubber plug.