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johnc

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Everything posted by johnc

  1. I would move forward from there a couple inches.
  2. Just put a circle in the bottom of the U Imentioned above. My point was to move the mounting of the loop off the floor pan and up into the tunned to give more room for the exhaust
  3. Congratualtions! Now its going to be on jakcstands for how long?
  4. The Autopower cage is legal for ITS and the Autopower roll bar turned into a cage for ITS would also be legal assuming the mounting plate requirements were met at the time. Remember, back then SCCA only required a single door bar. Those cars would have been grandfathered until I think 2008. But, by then the E36 so totally dominated ITS that very few true ITS 240Zs were left. Most of those left updated their cages out of fear of getting hit by 2,900 lb.s BMWs...
  5. Just weld a straight bar between the rear strut towers. The rear doesn't flex as much as the front and if you add a welded in roll bar where the rear braces connect to the top of the strut towers, you're golden.
  6. OK, I'll get on my soapbox... Do not put a full roll cage in a car unless you wear a helmet every time you drive it. In a 240Z the door hoops or halo bar will turn a minor accident into a concussion very easily. And the specified SFI padding won't help much because that padding is designed to work with a helmet, not a bare head. Don't believe me? Take a baseball bat, wrap it in SFI padding, and have your best friend hit you in the side of the head with a 25 mph swing. In a real accident it would be like Barry Bonds taking a full swing into your head. Make a decision now before spending money on a roll cage or bar - is this a race car or a street car. You will not be able to build a safety cage to satisfy NHRA, SCCA, and street driving requirements. It just can't be done safely.
  7. http://s160.beta.pho...y/BSR-260Z-IMSA Thank John at Bad Dog Parts for the pictures.
  8. Make the loop a "U" and bolt it to the top of the tunnel.
  9. Is the tapping frequency matched to enfine rpm - meaning do yopu get one tap per engine revolution? Or do you get one tap every other engine revolution? Or do you get 6 taps every engine revolution? You see what I'm getting at...
  10. Glad its easy. Bassett makes good wheels. EDIT: I just noticed you're installing used tires. That makes things a lot easier.
  11. The welded collar does not needto be welded all around. Three 1" welds are enough.
  12. Cut the flange of your old primary pipe and reusue it. You'll need a merge to get the two pipes into one 3" pipe and a good muffler shop should be able to make something that works.
  13. 1. Yes. 2. You don't need two flex sections on one exhasut run Only one flex section needed on each exhaust run. Put the flex section as close to the engine as possible and then you mount the rest of the exhaust as solidly as possible while still isolating it from the chassis. You can run two flex sections, one after each header, and then solidly mount everything after that. Also, do not use a flex section to make a bend. Flex sections should be kept straight.
  14. As mentioned above, roll the car froward and back and jump up and down on the door sills. Also, make sure you tightened down the front and rear inner lower contrl arms per the procedure in the FSM. If you tightened then down to spec with the car in the air the control arms are probably bound.
  15. Having mounted 285s on a 8.5" wide wheel (and been exhausted after two hours of work) my question is: How short are the sidewalls?
  16. For a street car you need to see at least 2" of shock shaft above the strut tube before the bump stops engage. Given that limit your best bet is shorter top hats as you've figured out. The BZ3099s have a 15mm mounting point on the top of the shaft and they work with the 5/8" monoballs in most of the camber plates sold in the USA. Check the ID of the spherical bearing in the HKS top hats to see if they will fit over the BZ3099s.
  17. For a street car, assuming I can get it legally registered with the engine swap, I would go with a 280Z.
  18. Its all coming home to roost. You can make a fast car while keeping it smog compliant - if you use your head. But most folks don't so we get increasing enforcement actions.
  19. Starting yesterday California implemented its STAR smog check program. It was specifically created to address the 60 percent failure rate of model year 1976 through 1995 vehicles. From 2003 through 2006 BAR conducted roadside tests of vehciles within those model years and compared the test results with the smog check resutls. They found that within 30 to 180 days after the bi-annual smog check 60% of those mdel year vehicles failed the roadside smog test. These results indicated to BAR that the smog tests were being falsified and/or the smog control systems on the vehicles were tampered with after testing. From now on any gross polluter and all "directed" vehciles must be tested at STAR compliant smog testing facilities. You can expect that a great many model year 1976 through 1995 vehvicles will be specifically directed to a STAR compliant facility. There will be an increased focus on vehicle types that have shown the highest failure rates: Ford Mustang Chevrolet Camaro Honda Civic BMW 3 series. Nissan 240SX Porsche 911 Nissan 300ZX Toyota Supra Toyota Celica ...and more.
  20. The uppoer mounting point on the BZ3015/3016 shock shaft is about 21mm in diameter. You would need to nachine that down to fit inside the sphericla bearing int he HKS upper mount.
  21. Cars built to SCCA's E Production rule set are limited to the stock diameter SUs, 12 to 1 CR, .500 lift cam, and 2.4L. They can make up to 240hp but they spin them pretty high.
  22. I did think it was kinda funny... The oil pump AND distributor drive gear is spinning on the shaft and the only issue is oil pump pressure?
  23. Keep posting about hydrogen generators and you'll get banned. Same is true with Chemtrials, grassy knolls, fake Apollo landings, etc.
  24. The M3 is a better DD, track car then a 280ZXT. I would buy the 280ZXT and use it as my DD and then spend $5,500 on a M3 that has a junk interior, a bad paint job, and/or some dents and slowly convert that into a track only car.
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