johnc

Focus on the ounces and the pounds will take car of themselves. Cutting off and grinding down all the unused brackets and tabs on a customer's race car saved 15 lbs. Cutting unused wires out of the wiring harness on that same car and using wire tires instead of tape to loom saved 18 lbs. Also, aluminum hard lines weigh 1/4 as much as braided AN lines.

C'mon man... Rule 4: What sanctioning body has the GTR3 class? What does their rule book say about fuel cell requriements? How much horsepower from your 302?

No. I recommend cutting one coil frmo the stacked end of the progressive spring (the end where the coils are the tighest) and then installing it on the car and check to see if you get the resutls you want. Its outlined here for the 5022 springs: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/88025-installing-tokico-280z-hp-springs-in-a-240z/

I need to know the following to help out: 1. What shocks are in the car? 2. What is the rear spring rate? 3. How tall are the springs (free height)? 4. How tall is the threaded collar? My initial impresison is the your strut tubes are too long for some strange reason or the spring rate is very high not allowing much compression at static ride height. The shocks also might not be postioned at the top of the strut tube (with spacers at the bottom) causing the odd droop asymetry. The stock inside length of a 240Z rear strut tube is 16.75". You've got about 10.5" from the welded collar to the casting so you should see about 5" above the welded collar.

One data point... The intake manifold built for my old race car was designed for torque. Plenum was exactly 1/2 of total displacement (1.5L plenum for a 3L engine), runners were 7.5" long and tapered from a 1.75" air horn inside the plenum to the port size. The tape started 2" from the plenum so the actual length of the taper was 5.5". TB was 65mm. The engine made at least 200 ft. lbs. of torque from about 4,000 to 7,500 rpm. Torque peak was about 275 but I forget where - its posted somewhere here on HybridZ.

Intake, exhaust, fluids, and more. Wait until you have the car completely together before worrying about its ride height. Generally, cutting progressive springs yields inconsistent results. I would cut one of the stacked coils and then do a test fit.

Are the 5020s on your car in the picture above?

If you can't afford to pay someone to do the work, you have to learn how to do the work yourself.

The stock moustache bars are made from a pretty hard spring steel. I drilled one out - once - and will never to that again.

BTW... they are all wrong.

Let me count the things wrong in that engine bay: 1. Braided lines rubbing against each other. 2. Braided lined held in place on the core support with low temp wire ties. 3. Braided lines rubbing on intake manifold plate. 4. Unsupported wires running across the engine brace. 5. Braided steel fuel line to fuel rail and then rubber hose with triple hose clamps to carb. 6. Fuel pressure gauge pointing down at the engine. Looks like they brought their 1950s tech along with the engine.

Those threaded sleeves are pretty short. You need to review the Strut Sectioning FAQ and do the math to determine where the threaded sleeve should be positioned. you can space the threaded sleeve up using an aluminum tube with the correct ID and a wall thickness of .125". Get rid of the stock upper spring perch. Its not giving you any extra travel and is, in face, reducing available bump travel. Those Cosmo springs look real short. If their rate is anything under 300 lb. in. you will coil bind. You also have to install bump stops or you'll blow the foot valves in the shocks.

Could be. Never tried it. The rears have a plastic spacer similar to the bearing pictured above. If you remove that and repalce it with the bearing you can probably use a rear insualtor on the front (and vice versa).

If the pressure plate drags in release, the synchros have to do more work getting the clutch slowed down. There is always some drag on the clutch during shifts becase it still slightly contacts the flywheel and pressure plate. Minimizing that as much as possible will extend synchro life and give more positive shifts.

Engine choice for a hybrid swap is an emotional decision that only you can make. Please do a bunch of searching/research.

BTW... the trans fluid most likely is not the issue, unless the fluid you are using has a lot of sulpher (GL5). Redline MT90 is the gear oil of choice for Nissan transmisisons with Swepco 201 a strong second. Both can be lighted with 50% Delo transmisison fluild if you want. Don't pay attention to other forums where the transmisisons are a 20 year newer design.

Do you have any pressure plate or clutch made by Cetnerforce? Their pressure plates/clutches do not release quick enough at high rpm and cause a lot of problems with Nissan transmission synchros. Its inherent in their design, especially the ones with the little weights on the diaphram spring.

Techno Toy Tuning, Ground Control, and DP Racing. I sell the DP Racing parts and you can find the others through Google. And possible wheel width has to do with backspacing and your desire to flare the car (or not). Stock OD springs limit your backspacing to 3.5". 2.5" springs let you run up to 5" of backspace and 2.25" spring let you run up to 5.5" of backspace. You only have about 3.5" of clearance from the hub face to the wheel well lip on an unflared car.

If you're willing to look outside of the JDM/Tuner world you'll find at least three vendors here in the USA that sell the correct camber plates for the S30.

Actaully, the rear calipers for the early 280ZX are not worth grabbing. An odd design with a small pad area and very heavy. The late 280ZX or Maxima calipers are a better choice. What's making your design frustrating is that you are using parts you have or can get cheaply as opposed to designing your solution around what others have done successfully using the known parts combinations. That path will require some mahcine work which seems like something you're willing to do.

Crate & Barrel would charge $60 for that.

That level of oil consumption is fine.

You can do it yourself: He's even got the missed 3rd gear that the Honda boys always do.

R888 is a DOT-R tire.

The links are in the thread above.