johnc

http://automotiveenginemechanics.tpub.com/TM-9-8000/TM-9-80000565.htm

IMHO, the less zinc issue is way overblown. I spent 26 large on a race engine and the engine builder said Mobil 1 was perfect. No issues in 50+ hours. But... the engine builder for a customer car feels that the zinc issue is significant. He recommends Shell Rotella T Triple Protection, T5 (syn blend) or T6 (full syn). I'm leaning toward the Rotella T6 mostly because its a full synthetic and is almost half the price of Mobil 1.

The OS Giken Super Lock would be a better choice for a pure road race car. Its more expensive but a much better diff.

Don't even bother swapping the springs until you get some shocks that can handle those rates. No Tokicos, no KYBs. You can probably get by with some Bilstien P30-0032s but Koni 8610s are a better choice for the spring rates you've chosen. Or, you can toss those Cosmo springs and put in spring rates down around 200 to 250 lb. in. and run the Tokicos.

I sell a carbon fiber hood for the S30 and you can cut the openings with a Rotozip. But I don't know of anyone that makes a S30 compisite hood with the vent openings already cut.

I suggest you runa dedicated power source for the wideband and make sure you have a good ground. Exhaust leaks will cause erratic readings along with varying rpm..

That will work. Make a bunch and sell them.

That little "clink" sound it makes when it drops into the water jack...

Yes, someone did a hack job replacing that quarter panel. That inner wheel well must be welded to the outer quarter panel. Its an important structural part of the chassis. You might as well flare the car.

$20.

BTW... The OP posted the question in the context of Turbo setup. A lot of the discussion in this thread is a about wave tuning for a NA application. IMHO, I think the biggest issue he his faced with is the long intake path creating lag and slow throttle response.

The custom intake that Sunbelt built for my racing engine was very specific to the cam I was running. The intake runners from the 1.5L plenum were 7.5 inches from the tip of the velocity stack bell in the plenum to the head, with a taper from 2" to the port diameter of 1.625". So total intake length was 11.5"

I ahve State Farm too and they are great in that respect. Turn the issue over to your agent and let them do the fighting.

And the length of the pipe reduces the effect of the wave through frictional losses and the inherent damping mass of the volume of air. To take it to the extreme, Edward Teller calcualted that a hydrogen bomb greater then 100MT would not yield more then 100MT due to the damping effect of the atmosphere. Plus. adding 26" to the length of the pressureized column of air from the comrpessor isn't a postive thing. You can always lay the engine over on the passenger side like Electramotive did to get more room for stuff.

Or you call Poterfield Brakes and order whatever pad material you want to fit the S12W caliper form factor. You can even get the killer Hawk DTC70 racing pads to fit the caliper. EDIT: Oops, Xnke was talking about street pads. Sorry.

Check the PCV system.

Intake runner length (from a plenum) is highley dependent on valve timing. A longer runner tends to damp out harmonics so we can assume a 26" runner (at least 3.5 times longer then ideal) will have very little harmonic benefit. Its just a pressurized pipe. There will be an increase in lag and the engine will be less responsive to throttle even on boost. There could be a lot of surging.

This is great! Now all I can see are my posts - which are the only ones worth reading anyway.

Good job not wrecking. Most folks just panic and stare striaght at the thing theya re going to hit. Tony's right, if you're brakes were not all just one circuit there may be another problem.

Agreed value policy with Haggerty.

Its not 5" OD and doesn't have blue/purple weld contamination. And it most certainly doesn't go Wooo Wooo! EDIT: Fixed the wooo wooo link...

HybridZ is a teenager. It now knows it all and you can't reason with it anymore.

Add the clamps as you go. You will install and remove them a few times during the build process. Also, tack sections in place and verify fitment before any final welding. At least four tacks evenly spaced around the joint to reduce any possible distotortion at final weld. Joint fitup is important with gaps no larger then the width of the filler wire. You want to reduce as much drop through into the tube as possible. Try for something like this:

You guys in the NYC/NJ metro area just trade cars every few years, right?

Plating the connection to the firewall will reduce the likelyhood of the frame rails coming into the cabin (which is already a very low likelyhood). .080" think sheet is plenty thick enough.